or why don't you just carry a house key... or install a keycode unit on the garage... i think these are better options rather than opening that homelink housing/mirror housing and messing with the electronics

 

Well my car is parked inside the garage.

And my house keys are on my other set of keys for my other car that's parked outside. I guess I could make a copy, but I like the idea of the keycode.

 

you could also purchase a proprietary garage door clicker for your brand garage door opener... ex: a genie garage door opening remote transmitter is like $45.00

Then open THIS genie transmitter and wire your auxilliary alarm wire to its circuitry and you'll have your alternate. The only thing is that you'll have to first program the clicker, then from time to time you'll have to replace the battery on this thing and keep this in a semi-concealed location.

 

Where's the DIY?

 

I asked the guy to send me the diagram of the layout or wires that he had.

I told him i would make a DIY but the guy never sent anything to me =/

 

Here's what I got, let me know if you want me to email you a better copy. Now get started on that DIY!!!

2003 INFINITI G35 2DR COUPE

Security
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE/BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger WHITE (-) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL OR WHT 12 PIN PLUG AT BCM
YOU MUST DIODE ISOLATE BOTH TRIGGERS TO MONITOR ALL DOORS. *SEE DOCUMENTS
LF Latch WHITE (-) PIN 14 AT THE BCM
ALSO YELLOW
RF Latch PINK (-) PIN 10 AT THE BCM
LR Latch PINK (-) PIN 11 AT THE BCM
IF VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE NAVAGATION USE PIN 11 IF VEHICLE HAS NAVAGATION, USE 2 SEPERATE PINK WIRES IN THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL IN HARNESS THAT RUNS TO THE REAR. DIODE ISOLATE ALL WIRES
RR Latch PINK (-) PIN 11 AT THE BCM
Trunk Trigger RED/WHITE (-) PIN 18 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM
Hood Trigger LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) AT THE PIN IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT
Alarm Disarm WORKS WITH THE LOCKS
A SINGLE PULSE ON THE UNLOCK WIRE WILL DISARM THE ALARM WITHOUT UNLOCKING THE DOORS.
Alarm Arm WORKS WITH THE LOCKS
Parking Lights RED/BLUE (+) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL OR DIMMER SWITCH
Convenience
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo RED/BLACK (L) RED (R) (+) WHT 12 PIN PLUG AT THE IPDM MODULE
IPDM MODULE - INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE IPDM IS LOCATED BETWEEN THE PASS. FENDER AND THE BATTERY
Wipers-Lo VIOLET (-) AT WIPER MOTOR
Wipers-Hi BLUE/BLACK (-) AT WIPER MOTOR
Parking Brake LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) AT THE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
Trunk Release PINK OR BLUE (-) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL OR PIN 76 IN BRN PLUG AT BCM
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE/BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 WHITE/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 2 WHITE/GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type IMMOBILIZER
Anti-Theft Description TRANSPONDER THIS VEHICLE REQUIRES A TRANSPONDER BYPASS KIT TO REMOTELY START THE ENGINE. GO TO WWW.BYPASSMODULES.COM TO LOOK UP YOURS. ALL MODULES ARE AVAILABLE AT ALARMTEK AUTO SECURITY INLINE!
Key Sense BLACK/PINK (+) AT STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Tachometer AT THE COIL USE NON COMMON COLOR (AC) DO NO USE WHITE/BLUE AND BLACK
ALSO AT ECM MODULE PIN #23
Speed Sense WHITE/GREEN (AC) INST. CLUSTER AT BRN PLUG PIN 19
ALSO AT A/C & DISPLAY AMPLIFIER IN CENTER OF DASH
Parking Lights RED/BLUE (+) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL OR DIMMER SWITCH
Brake Lights PINK/BLUE (+) AT THE SWITCH ABOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights VIOLET/ORANGE (+) DRIVERS SILL PLATE HARNESS
MAY ALSO BE RED ON MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES
Horn GREEN/BLACK (-) AT STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Module 1 BCM - BODY CONTROL MODULE IS LOCATED IN THE DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Door locks/Windows
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Door Lock Circuit 3 WIRE NEGATIVE
Power Unlock BLUE/WHITE (-) IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR AT DOOR CYLINDER
SINGLE PULSE ON UNLOCK WILL DISARM WITHOUT UNLOCKING THE DOORS DOUBLE PULSE WILL UNLOCK THE DOORSALSO LIGHT BLUE AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE ALSO LIGHT BLUE (-) IN THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE. THESE WIRES ARE KEY CYLINDER WIRES
Power Lock RED/WHITE (-) IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR AT DOOR CYLINDER
ALSO YELLOW (-) AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE. THESE WIRES ARE KEY CYLINDER WIRES
Driver Mtr Unlock YELLOW (REV) PIN 30 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM
Driver Mtr Lock VIOLET (REV) PIN 23 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM
Pas Mtr Unlock WHITE/BLUE (REV) PIN 31 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM

 

Sorry to bump up a really old thread, but I have a clifford matrix 50.5x and I'm attempting to wire the lock/unlock feature. I wired a green wire from the primary harness into the BCM (purple/red) wire I believe (domelight supervision) and that works fine. It detects when my door is open and such..

My issue is I tried wiring the door lock harness into ..

Driver Mtr Unlock YELLOW (REV) PIN 30 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM
Driver Mtr Lock VIOLET (REV) PIN 23 IN WHT PLUG AT BCM

and I get no cigar. The alarm arms..disarms..sirens..but it wont lock or unlock. Any ideas?

 

You are looking for the wrong wires. I dont know what year car you have, but this if for an 03 like stated in the above post. These are the two wires you need to find..

Power Unlock BLUE/WHITE (-) IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR AT DOOR CYLINDER
SINGLE PULSE ON UNLOCK WILL DISARM WITHOUT UNLOCKING THE DOORS DOUBLE PULSE WILL UNLOCK THE DOORSALSO LIGHT BLUE AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE ALSO LIGHT BLUE (-) IN THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE. THESE WIRES ARE KEY CYLINDER WIRES
Power Lock RED/WHITE (-) IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR AT DOOR CYLINDER

 

i am so sorry for the delay guys been really busy and havent kept up with any of my thread, i actually got fed up with the installation and took it out to a local dealer. Well if any of you guys are attempting to do this and need a extra blank transponder key let me know.

 

After much research I decided to tackle installing the Viper 5301 remote start and keyless entry. I'm using the Idatalink by pass/can interface that was programmed by my local shop.

So after setting the I data link for for installation mode 2 (press button x2, hold button, LED turns solid green) and turning the key on and off for programming the module seems to be programmed fine and occasionally blinks green like it's supposed to.

PROBLEM when I hook up the lock/unlock wires to from the viper to the idata link nothing happens. The viper clicks and seems to send the negative signal to the datalink.

Any suggestions?????? I really appreciate it.

 

I should note, I did not hook up the "security indicator light" wire to the bypass. The more I read the more I think this wire needs to be connected to the idatalink so it knows when the cars immobilizer system is active and when it is not.

Thoughts?

 

Run the wires in to the drivers doors for lock and unlock. Not only will you get locks that work 100% of the time you can also do remote window control with no extra parts. It's a pain to do, but the benefits are worth it.

 

BUMP. What's the price range nowadays for just the install? Already got my alarm/remote start but need to get it installed. I just don't know what a good price would be. Thanks.

 

Installation depends on so many different factors that it is hard to compare online. First off, since you already have the alarm expect to pay more for installation then a customer who purchased the alarm at the shop installing it. You may learn that there are many shops that won't even touch customer provided alarms because alarm systems can be "delicate" and if the shop doesn't have any spares the risk may not be worth it. Also, the amount of features you want will change the price. What kind of bypass do you have? That will be reflected in the price. Do you have a preference to how it is installed (ie all connections soldered vs using crimps or t-taps)? You will most likely pay more to have all the connections soldered but you'll have a much better installation. Crimps and T-taps are just asking for problems down the road.

Your best bet is to call around to local shops tell them what you have, what you want, and see what they will charge.

 

Oh okay thanks. Guess there's a lot that goes into it. I just wanted to know the average price but I guess it varies a lot. Good to know about soldering vs crimps/taps. Thanks again.