$1700 enough?
#16
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I would highly suggest the JDM kit. It looks 10x better IMO than the Metra kit does. You will need the JDM 05+ finisher and the AC controller. [url]http://www.grubbsperformance.com/servlet/Categories?category=G35+COUPE%3AINTERIOR[\url] Grubbs has both. Do not buy the DD bracket, you can use the stock one despite what this website says. For speakers I would highly suggest Morel if you can find a dealer around you that carries them. They are a little bit pricier than some, but they make up for it in sound quality. I would suggest a set of 6.5" components up front and a set of 6.5" coaxials for the rear. You may want to look into Image Dynamics for subwoofer. A 10" would probably do you just fine. I like the look of the 4080 fiberglass sub boxes that you hear so much about on this site. Maybe look into a 6 channel amplifier for the whole system to consolidate. Good luck
#18
People see a final 2 ohm load with the fronts since the woofer and tweeter are wired in parallel with just a simple capacitor as a high pass filter. Technically every speaker in the car is a 4 ohm nominal load though. Either way, it doesn't really matter
Make sure you set aside at least a couple hundred for sound deadener...at least enough for the trunk and doors. Without deadening, no matter what you get, it will not sound good. Anyone that has skipped this step and thinks that their setup sounds good has never heard good sound.
Make sure you set aside at least a couple hundred for sound deadener...at least enough for the trunk and doors. Without deadening, no matter what you get, it will not sound good. Anyone that has skipped this step and thinks that their setup sounds good has never heard good sound.
#19
I (or anyone else) would be able to give you the best recommendations based on what you are expecting sound wise, what kind of music you like listening to, etc. Personally I like a lot of different kinds of music, but love crisp highs like highhats and clean vocals, as well as musical bass of all frequencies. Thus I went w/ a set of DLS UP6 components up front. For my subs I used image dynamics IDQ v2 subs, which were awesome, but switched out to Rockford Fosgate power T1s for more power. (They can take much more power but I still prefer the IDQs). I am finally going to go with one IDMAX 10 in a 4080 box, modified by Bing at simplicityinsound. I've talked with a lot of different people (both in the business and enthusiasts) and they have all pretty much agreed that it is not worth it to change out rear components. Go with a set of good components up front, and a good sub in back (and amp/s of course) and you will have a great system.
#20
I agree 100% that this should be done at the same time everything else is done, to save you both money and time. It does make a big difference.
Make sure you set aside at least a couple hundred for sound deadener...at least enough for the trunk and doors. Without deadening, no matter what you get, it will not sound good. Anyone that has skipped this step and thinks that their setup sounds good has never heard good sound.
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JT@Z1motorsport
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10-14-2008 11:30 AM