I am going to go with the RCA wires being the culprit on this one. Since I do not even remember who made them, and they were only $17 when I bought them.
The HO Alt idea is after I get the totally taken care of, and that is due to the dimming problem that is going on with the sub being installed now. But I am going to get a better battery, do the big 3 upgrade, and put on an earthing kit for good measure.
On my way home from work tonight every once in a while I would getting a popping noise from the interior speakers. So after I get back from Okinawa that amp is history. Not really trusting the amp too much right now. The popping started when I rolled down my window for some cool air (not feeling very good). But it only happened a few times, window being rolled down was once, pressing the clutch twice.

 

What amps are you running? Depending on what you are using, it may be better to upgrade your battery first, and even add a second, before adding an HO alt.

For a daily setup, I'd highly recommend Odyssey batteries (made by Enersys, which is also the company that makes Stinger. They are all the same). I had the PC 1200 and it was better than my Kinetik HC 1400. I'd take it over an Optima as well.

I also had a pair of PC 2150's that I never got to use, but those things are straight up brutes weighing 75 lbs each. It's what they use in the military for the Hum V's.

But as you mentioned, do the big 3 first. And I see you did not include a capacitor. Thanks for going with the proper route

 

The only way that I will go with a cap is after the battery and the big 3 upgrade, and then need a HO alternator, then I would use a cap and not until then; but then it would only stiffen the voltage anyhow. So seriously there really is no need for a cap, I am not entering any DB Drag comps anytime soon, especially with my work schedule, never at home really.
So there really should be no real difference between an Odyssey and a Stinget batttery. I will look into the Odyssey batteries. Thanks.

 

Only difference between odyssey and stinger batteries are color and the price (stinger more expensive).

Caps are pointless...only should be used once the electrical is up to par...and if it's up to par, why even use it? Just a waste of money and it's for show.

 

Replaced rca wires with Memphis Audio rca wires. Now to take care of the rear shelf rattleing and vibrating, that will be on Friday; along with the big 3 upgrade. I had to send the ex wife $200 for my daughter today so the earthing kit has to wait as does the battery. I got a quote from H O Alternator today as well, $649 for a 190 amp alternator. Quaility Power Alternators said to call them and give details about the car (make, model, year, and engine). Hopefully they will be cheapier than H O. Because I personnally think that $649 for a 190 amp alternator is way too much, sounds like they are rapeing people on their pricing. I am also going to contact Excessive Amperage as well. About getting quotes for the alternator is covering my bases, that way I know how much that it is going to run me. But I do think that I am going to need one though, since I do have the Orion HCCA 12.2 sub which is 2000 watts rms. The amp is set way low (should actually be set higher thann what it is) and the lights still dim when the base hits when I driving on the highway doing 80 mph. So the alternator just may end up being a wise investment for me. But we will see what happens with the big 3, earthing kit, and an upgraded battery. For that I am going to order an Odyssey. Just need to look around for a decent price on one is all.

 

Did the RCA replacement fix the Alternator whine?

 

Yes it did, no more whine at all. Now to kill that annoying damn vibrating noise from rear shelf.

 

Deadener if vibrating, foam pad if its rattling.

 

The culprit was the 3rd brake light wire, being bounced on the shelf from the bass. I have deadner all over that sucker. Doing the big 4 upgrade is a real sun of a bitch on this damn car.

 

Not too difficult by the looks of it. Get the car on jacks, take off the undertray and the alternator is right there. I haven't tried taking the bolt off the alternator, but that's the only part that seems it would be a PITA since you're upside down.

 

PITA is an under statement. The undertray is easy, no problems there. Getting to the bolt for the alternator is another story, going to have to wait until another day for that one; since my step son has a karate class from 1pm - 4pm today. I really could not see where the cable from the battery goes onto the alternator though, and I would rather not take the alternator out, since that would be a bigger PITA. I can see the plug harness for the alternator, and then there is something else with like a rubber boot on it on the top of the alternator that you can not see from the top side because the engine would be hiding it from that view. The wire going from engine to the chasis is no where in plan sight though, not to far fetched though. Battery to chasis was very easy, it is right there in the battery compartment. So now I am going to look for info on the alternator on our car. Because I do believe that the cable from the battery is going to be associated with the bolt that I would rather not remove.

 

As my looking for information led me to a Nissan forum (Nicoclub.org). They have a moderator over there actually advised someone to get a cap to stop the lights from dimming. I think that moderator needs to go back to school. But I found out that I need to get into that little boot since that is where the positive wire from the battery is ran to that exact spot. Tommorrow I am going to move the boot out of the way so that I can see where I need to put the nnew wire on, then run it up the engine bay to the battery positive wire.

 

Well that was a majo PITA. Talking about tight spaces, holy crap batman. You need to have the hands of a small child to get in there. I really hope that I do not need a higher amp alternator because I would rather not pay someone to do something that I can do. Just would rather not due to the small space.