Need Help Please!!!!!!!
#1
06-11-2009, 06:43 PM
Need Help Please!!!!!!!
Ok first of all my car is a 2003 Sedan w/Bose No Nav.
Some of my audio was installed today. I only wanted to add a sub to my stock Bose today. The components used were:
AudioControl LC6
Kicker Solobaric 15" round
JL Audio 500/1
JL 2ga power wire
0 to 4ga distro block
Tsunami RCAs
Everything sounds 1000x better. But there is a HUGE problem. When I turn the car off, the sub comes on with a continuous low tone that is very loud. This only happens for about 30-45 seconds, but it shouldn't happen at all. If I turn the radio off in the car while the ignition is on and I am driving, I get no tone. It only happens when the car is turned off.
The shop I use says it could be because the LC6 is a signal sensing unit and goes off like 30 seconds after the car is turned off. That seems logical, but it shouldn't cause the woofer to come on like that, right?? Is there some way around this permanently? What should I do?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Some of my audio was installed today. I only wanted to add a sub to my stock Bose today. The components used were:
AudioControl LC6
Kicker Solobaric 15" round
JL Audio 500/1
JL 2ga power wire
0 to 4ga distro block
Tsunami RCAs
Everything sounds 1000x better. But there is a HUGE problem. When I turn the car off, the sub comes on with a continuous low tone that is very loud. This only happens for about 30-45 seconds, but it shouldn't happen at all. If I turn the radio off in the car while the ignition is on and I am driving, I get no tone. It only happens when the car is turned off.
The shop I use says it could be because the LC6 is a signal sensing unit and goes off like 30 seconds after the car is turned off. That seems logical, but it shouldn't cause the woofer to come on like that, right?? Is there some way around this permanently? What should I do?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
#3
06-11-2009, 09:55 PM
I think your installer needs to find an alternate way to wire the turn-on lead for the amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
Last edited by Deezflip; 06-11-2009 at 09:59 PM.
#4
06-11-2009, 11:09 PM
I think your installer needs to find an alternate way to wire the turn-on lead for the amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
Either way, thanks again for the input.
#5
06-11-2009, 11:11 PM
For just the install or just the components or both?
Either way, it is tough to tell. I have had the Solobaric for like 10 years and I more or less stole the JL from a buddy of mine for 50 bucks. You would laugh at how I got the rest of the stuff too. I think the only thing I bought brand new in the package from a car audio store was the inline fuse holder and RCAs.
Either way, it is tough to tell. I have had the Solobaric for like 10 years and I more or less stole the JL from a buddy of mine for 50 bucks. You would laugh at how I got the rest of the stuff too. I think the only thing I bought brand new in the package from a car audio store was the inline fuse holder and RCAs.
#6
06-13-2009, 12:43 AM
I think your installer needs to find an alternate way to wire the turn-on lead for the amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
He's probably right and it's probably using the turn-on lead provided by the audiocontrol which is activated by input signals which causes the delay in turning off the amps. Some leftover signals after turning off the car.
Maybe tapping into the ignition switch with an additional relay for the turn-on lead would work, but this may or may not make a pop or thump noise. Or....you can try the using the original turn-on lead for the bose amp.
Some follow-up info for everybody...
Deezflip, that is exactly what the problem was. The LC6 was using a remote wire from the Bose amp and was in turn providing the remote wire for the JL sub amp. This caused the problem and the solution was as easy as providing seperate remote wires for the LC6 and JL amp both sourced from the OEM Bose amp.
Thanks again for all the help!
It sounds great now! 
