Any help would be appreciated. I have had my JL10W3 10inch Sub working well for over a month now. Its hooked up to my Alpine M500 Amp. I didnt change any settings but noticed it wasnt bumping anymore. The power light glows on the amp. I checked the wires/connections and dont see anything wrong....Any Ideas?

 

it wasn't bumping or it didn't sound like it used to?
check your cross over and gain settings on the amp

 

Alpine amps will sometimes turn the light on with only remote turn on and ground. Check the fuse for the amp on it and at your connection area(battery). If that look good, unplug your sub with the amp off and try hooking up another sub.

 

Yeah I pulled out both fuses and both looked okay. I checked the main fuse..i even changed it with my extra (at the battery). The alpine light comes on and the subwoofer doesnt show any sign of power. There is no vibration at all through the subwoofer. I have trouble believing the subwoofer is blown after just one month at not even 3/5 power.

Thanks for your help so far.

 

Did you check the wiring inside the box?

 

yep i took the sub out of the box and checked everything...looks good. Looked at the sub...and from the outside..no wires missing or loose...no signs of damage.

 

It might have to do with your connections. Do you have your amp set up by splicing the oem bose harness? If so, maybe the speaker wires you spliced into have became disconnected. You might want to grab a multi meter and check to see if your amp is giving out power as well.

 

Yeah I spliced into oem bose harness. I did check the connections...but I dont see how i could lose all 4 spliced wires at the same time. The radio works so the plug is still in. When a sub blows out...does it normally just act as if it has no power or does it still emit a little sound/vibration?

 

Quick way to tell if the sub is cooked is by smelling it. Does it have a burnt smell at all? The second way to determine if a sub is dead is by grabbing a battery 9v or bigger and touching the + and - terminals to the same on speaker. Does it pop/move at all. Don't hold the wires there, just touch them. Also if the speaker has two sets of terminals try both. This is all assuming you do not have access to a digital multimeter. If you do, test the impedance of the speaker terminals. If the speaker doesn't pop at all, its
toast.

Just because you are not using all of the power of the amp, a speaker still can be beaten to an early grave.

 

Come to think of it it does smell a bit odd inside the box. I cant tell if it smelled like that before...I have a 4080 box. It does smell like some sort of smoke/burn/campfire though...but that might be because the box was custom made from 4080. I will try the battery thing. I thought JL was quality stuff though. I honestly havent beaten this speaker down at all...PLus i bought it from Techtronics and they arent responding to my emails....(I cant send it back to JL-because its not an authorized store)

 

JL is a quality brand. I have been using their equipment for years without issues.

 

are you running the amp at the correct amount of power for that sub? not over/under powering it? everything your saying sounds like you smoked it...

 

I would assume...I bought the combo from the advice from a few buddies and talked directly to a sales associate at crutchfield who reccomended the Alpine MRP M-500 Amp to go with the JL 10W3v3-2.

 

The combo will work well but if it is not tuned correctly and played within the cpabilities it can kill the sub. An easy way to tell if you are owerdriving a sub it to plug your ears when you are playing it loud to block out the high frequencies and if you hear a slapping/popping noise, you are beating the sub to death. Your frequencie dial should have been set at 110-100 hz and the bass eq should not have been more than 1/2-3/4.

 

I had the bass eq set even lower than that (never went above half-just sounded louder with no accuracy) The gain was set at halfway for a while..then turned a few ticks above that...mabe 3/5ths the way up. I had the frequency set at 80 hz constantly and moved it no higher than 120 hz when tuning the system.