Amp wiring kit
#1
#3
knukonceptz.com
get the copper clad wire
you will not notice a difference in the short run the car/amp need
I think the 4ga kit is like $30 or so
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K4
get the copper clad wire
you will not notice a difference in the short run the car/amp need
I think the 4ga kit is like $30 or so
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K4
#4
knukonceptz.com
get the copper clad wire
you will not notice a difference in the short run the car/amp need
I think the 4ga kit is like $30 or so
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K4
get the copper clad wire
you will not notice a difference in the short run the car/amp need
I think the 4ga kit is like $30 or so
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KLM-K4
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
honestly, in a car, wire is wire as long as its the same size. (eg 4ga vs 4ga)
the run of wire is not long enough or important enough to make a difference
sure on paper it might make a difference but in real life, no change
and no one is gonna see the wire so color doesn't matter really.
the run of wire is not long enough or important enough to make a difference
sure on paper it might make a difference but in real life, no change
and no one is gonna see the wire so color doesn't matter really.
#10
obviously if you buy some random wire its going to make a difference.
If you compare 4awg to 4awg you will not notice a change
RF,Kicker,Knu, Stinger,etc all use the American Wire Gauge standard
if you are buying your wire at the flea market or some random ebay wire you dont need to be installing.
also felxability is something people make to be a huge deal, but its not.
Ive worked with 0/2 welding wire in a car before with no issue. I cant remember the stand count, but it worked fine.
I have never worked on or seen a car that needed a 0ga wire to be twisted into a knot
If you compare 4awg to 4awg you will not notice a change
RF,Kicker,Knu, Stinger,etc all use the American Wire Gauge standard
if you are buying your wire at the flea market or some random ebay wire you dont need to be installing.
also felxability is something people make to be a huge deal, but its not.
Ive worked with 0/2 welding wire in a car before with no issue. I cant remember the stand count, but it worked fine.
I have never worked on or seen a car that needed a 0ga wire to be twisted into a knot
#11
#12
obviously if you buy some random wire its going to make a difference.
If you compare 4awg to 4awg you will not notice a change
RF,Kicker,Knu, Stinger,etc all use the American Wire Gauge standard
if you are buying your wire at the flea market or some random ebay wire you dont need to be installing.
also felxability is something people make to be a huge deal, but its not.
Ive worked with 0/2 welding wire in a car before with no issue. I cant remember the stand count, but it worked fine.
I have never worked on or seen a car that needed a 0ga wire to be twisted into a knot
If you compare 4awg to 4awg you will not notice a change
RF,Kicker,Knu, Stinger,etc all use the American Wire Gauge standard
if you are buying your wire at the flea market or some random ebay wire you dont need to be installing.
also felxability is something people make to be a huge deal, but its not.
Ive worked with 0/2 welding wire in a car before with no issue. I cant remember the stand count, but it worked fine.
I have never worked on or seen a car that needed a 0ga wire to be twisted into a knot
#13
#14
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Okay, i love these discussions. . .
First of all, wire is wire. When dealing with the frequency of current (DC in this case) of the wire 4AWG wire from one manufacturer will be no different than the 4AWG from some other manufacturer.
Second of all, there IS NO SUCH THING as a specification stating how much current can travel through a piece of wire. A 30 AWG wire has the capability of handling just as much current as a 2 AWG piece of wire. The only difference is thermal capacity of the wire and the resistance of the wire. A 30 AWG can pass 1000A of current, but obviously will explode due to the thermal impacts (wire heating up). However, if the wire was cooled properly, it would EASILY pass that current. Also, there will be more resistance with a smaller gauge wire, so you can have a lot more voltage drop across the wire especially with high currents and long lengths.
Finally, when actually choosing your wire, choose the gauge according to your specs, and then just go for the cheap alternative. Unless your competing and want to have MONSTER CABLE written all over your wires in fancy blue neon, the flea market brand will suffice just fine. Just make sure its flexible enough for your particular install and the jacket material isn't so cheap that it flakes off.
Premium wire is the biggest gimmick in the book. Stamp the wire with some fancy name and you can ask 10 times more for the wire than your standard generic wire.
First of all, wire is wire. When dealing with the frequency of current (DC in this case) of the wire 4AWG wire from one manufacturer will be no different than the 4AWG from some other manufacturer.
Second of all, there IS NO SUCH THING as a specification stating how much current can travel through a piece of wire. A 30 AWG wire has the capability of handling just as much current as a 2 AWG piece of wire. The only difference is thermal capacity of the wire and the resistance of the wire. A 30 AWG can pass 1000A of current, but obviously will explode due to the thermal impacts (wire heating up). However, if the wire was cooled properly, it would EASILY pass that current. Also, there will be more resistance with a smaller gauge wire, so you can have a lot more voltage drop across the wire especially with high currents and long lengths.
Finally, when actually choosing your wire, choose the gauge according to your specs, and then just go for the cheap alternative. Unless your competing and want to have MONSTER CABLE written all over your wires in fancy blue neon, the flea market brand will suffice just fine. Just make sure its flexible enough for your particular install and the jacket material isn't so cheap that it flakes off.
Premium wire is the biggest gimmick in the book. Stamp the wire with some fancy name and you can ask 10 times more for the wire than your standard generic wire.
#15
liche not sure what you mean but your post seems a lil contradicting. Not trying to battle anything out but you say wire is wire, but then state go for quality.
As noted in the pictures above, some wire, take 4 awg in this example, has less strand count than others and they make up for it by it's physical appearance using a thicker jacket around the wire.
Strand count will make a huge difference. Material the wire is made of makes a difference, but not in the case of audio wire really as it is not exposed. If it were, then we'd have to worry about oxidization of bare copper. If you have tinned copper, no need to really worry about that. Anyway, that's besides the point.
When it comes down to wire, you NEED to look at strand count. Then it comes down to if you need something flexible or not, if you like one brand over another, one color over another, etc.
As noted in the pictures above, some wire, take 4 awg in this example, has less strand count than others and they make up for it by it's physical appearance using a thicker jacket around the wire.
Strand count will make a huge difference. Material the wire is made of makes a difference, but not in the case of audio wire really as it is not exposed. If it were, then we'd have to worry about oxidization of bare copper. If you have tinned copper, no need to really worry about that. Anyway, that's besides the point.
When it comes down to wire, you NEED to look at strand count. Then it comes down to if you need something flexible or not, if you like one brand over another, one color over another, etc.