5 channel amp
Yeah, that sub is going to dominate those speakers. Might as well keep them stock.
The Kappas aren't very great at low-mid range, but have very crisp highs, I think you'd be missing some of what you want to hear with that combination.
I had 63.9's in my old car, and they sounded good, but they were combined with Kappa 6x9's, which filled in what the front speakers were missing.
But amp-wise, that should be fine. Plenty of headroom with the 100w RMS for the full-range gives you some headroom. No headroom on the sub, but 500w should push it fairly well.
The Kappas aren't very great at low-mid range, but have very crisp highs, I think you'd be missing some of what you want to hear with that combination.
I had 63.9's in my old car, and they sounded good, but they were combined with Kappa 6x9's, which filled in what the front speakers were missing.
But amp-wise, that should be fine. Plenty of headroom with the 100w RMS for the full-range gives you some headroom. No headroom on the sub, but 500w should push it fairly well.
Last edited by Wrathernaut; May 23, 2010 at 11:27 PM.
Two amps is a good way, it gives you more flexibility at the cost of a little complexity in installation.
I went with both a JL 350/4 and a JL 500/1.
I went with both a JL 350/4 and a JL 500/1.
Trending Topics
According to JL's chart here:
Looks like you're in the sweet spot with that combination.
Green (Minimum):
From a reliability standpoint, this zone represents a very comfortable operating power range for each driver. This level of power will not stress the woofer but will not extract all of its performance potential, either.
Use of less than the minimum power level will not damage the woofer, but may result in unsatisfactory performance.
Yellow (Optimum):
This zone represents the best compromise between long-term reliability, high-output and low-
distortion performance. This power level is lower than the woofer's continuous power rating(as published in its specifications), but you will still be taking advantage of the woofer's, low-distortion performance range without undue risk of failure.
Red (Danger Zone):
Slightly more SPL will be gained by pushing the power intothis zone, but typically not more than 2dB, compared to the yellow zone. The subwoofer driver is designed to operate safely up to this power range, but not beyond. Operate with caution.
Black (Warranty Void):
We do not recommend operating woofers at this level of power. In this zone, there is a very high probability that the driver will fail due to excessive heat and/or mechanical stress.
Subwoofer drivers operated at these levels of power are NOT covered under warranty.
From a reliability standpoint, this zone represents a very comfortable operating power range for each driver. This level of power will not stress the woofer but will not extract all of its performance potential, either.
Use of less than the minimum power level will not damage the woofer, but may result in unsatisfactory performance.
Yellow (Optimum):
This zone represents the best compromise between long-term reliability, high-output and low-
distortion performance. This power level is lower than the woofer's continuous power rating(as published in its specifications), but you will still be taking advantage of the woofer's, low-distortion performance range without undue risk of failure.
Red (Danger Zone):
Slightly more SPL will be gained by pushing the power intothis zone, but typically not more than 2dB, compared to the yellow zone. The subwoofer driver is designed to operate safely up to this power range, but not beyond. Operate with caution.
Black (Warranty Void):
We do not recommend operating woofers at this level of power. In this zone, there is a very high probability that the driver will fail due to excessive heat and/or mechanical stress.
Subwoofer drivers operated at these levels of power are NOT covered under warranty.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DEMoLITIoN
Audio/Video/Electronics
8
Apr 20, 2016 06:57 PM
