I am ready to purchase a sub-woofer, box and amp setup for my 2006 G35 Coupe. The car is completely factory with the exception of a media gateway that allows me to plug an iPod and/or Auxiliary device into the Bose headunit. The sound is above-par, but it is *really* lacking a good lower-end punch (even lower-middle range). I listen to a wide range of music, from rock to jazz to electronica. The main reason I want a sub is to get a really good punch from some of the house, dubstep, and psytrance electronica I have been listening to. I do want a really good, strong kick and full coverage of that low to very low frequency that this music genre produces. I do priority quality over loudness, if I had to chose. Note: I'm not looking for competition nor a super-loud system that garners attention, shakes your hairs and rattles your eardrums.. just good, loud, quality bass.

So my questions:

A few of the local car audio installers quoted me between $500 to $600 for an entry-level system - one that is in a custom box that fits against the rear seat, and with a 150RMS/300Peak Sub and Amp setup (incl. wiring and other required ancillary stuff). This power seems low to me for my style of music. Am I right? Or due to the small size of the car and trunk, and the fact I am running everything else factory, is this the ideal setup? See below for what one installer proposed:

Sub: Rockford Fosgate P1S410 (150 Watts RMS @ 4 OHM)
Amp: Rockford Fosgate R2501 (150 Watts RMS @ 4OHM)

Thanks everyone in advance for your responses.

 

Yes, a single 10" with proper power will fill the G35 just fine.

That's definitely entry-level, what's your real budget?

We're not the shop trying to squeeze all they can out of you, you can tell us what you really want to spend.

#1 tip right now - check the audio marketplace to see if anyone's selling off lightly used equipment for the coupe.

#2 For $500:
IDQ10v2.d4: $160
Zenclosures 10" coupe enclosure: $100
400W wiring kit: $30
Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1: $190
Total: $480

Put that leftover $100 into some CLD tiles for the trunk from sound deadener from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com or order some damplifer from somewhere.

You'll end up with something roughly like this:

 

Thanks Wrathernaut, I've seen your knowledgeable posts throughout this forum and you have always been a big help.

My budget is quite flexible. I'm wanting to spend perhaps a little bit more to get out of the entry-level and maybe into a intermediate-level providing both clean, crisp bass and a relatively big punch for my electronica. I wanted to be around $500 but if it takes me to $750 (after all shipping). I don't want to get into a zone where my subs wash out my factory speakers inside the car. (I'm assuming even with entry level sub/amp I will have to move more fade to the front and drop the bass on the Bose unit - all while controlling the bass with the amp control module)

How do those Zenclosures perform? I saw them online and wondered how they compare vs. an audio shop building one for you.

Also, what's the best place to write the amp to? (Off the back speakers, from the Bose Amp, etc.) I read the DIY sticky but I just wanted your opinion.

Please elaborate more on the CLD tiles. How do I apply these to my G? Do I adhere them to the top of the trunk?

I will begin browsing through the audio marketplace. I never even thought about that!
What about a 12w6v2 and a Zenclosure From G U Later? (It appears this would be a huge step-up and maybe overkill): https://g35driver.com/forums/marketp...enclosure.html
Though, the price is the same as retail.. I would probably need a moderately-priced Amp as well.

 

The zenclosure is what most shops would end up building for behind-the-seat use. They're well-rated, and their carpet matches well, they've done a tone of them, so they're a good option if they won't build something similar that'd end up being less than a zenclosure shipped.

You wire the amp remote power wire and the audio signal wires right off the harness going to the Bose amp, that way you avoid the crappy EQ in the bose amp, and run the power wire to the battery along the floor on the passenger side under the carpet (surprisingly large amount of room in there) and up the passenger kick area to through the dash and out the big rubber gasket in the battery compartment. Ground wire can be attached to one of the bolts holding the rear seats in place.

I can't explain the CLD tiles better than sounddeadenershowdown's own description:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

They have some b-stock ones (not fully square) in stock (40 for $60) that'll leave you with enough to do a couple in each door and all over the trunk lid and over the tire wells too.

And yes, your new amp does have the potential to overpower the bose up front, but you can address that problem by just keeping the amp gain down until you get some good components up front.