Audiopipe amp?
#1
09-12-2010, 10:44 PM
Audiopipe amp?
so i got a 4 channel 600 watt sony Xplod amp powering my interior phoenix gold speakers and they sound loud but i've recently heard from an audio shop that sony xplod amps really suck and i did review and alot of people say the same thing. I foud a 4 channel audiopipe amp for a pretty good price, 1000watts, here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290431685010&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Think i'll notice a huge improvement in sound quality?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290431685010&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Think i'll notice a huge improvement in sound quality?
#3
09-12-2010, 11:23 PM
i have that same amp and then i also have another one for the sub. and they are AMAZING. i guarantee people on here are going to hate about them because of the price. but ive had zero problems and i love it. you cant beat that price either. i paid 112 for mine as well. and then 113 for my other
#4
09-13-2010, 04:41 AM
Which phoenix golds are you talking about? If it's their $60 range speakers, then the amp you put on them really doesn't matter in terms of what the sound quality will be.
As for that amp...
Problem #1: That "1000 watt" amp is really 50W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm = 200 Watts.
Problem #2: I couldn't find anywhere that it said that this amp was rated according to the CEA-2006 standard. So you can't even say that it's even a 200W amp according to the industry standard. Any other specs for it are up for interpretation because of this, including the total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio, and other factors which are important when you're searching for an amp that gives out a clean signal.
If you're looking for something cheap, not measured to the CEA-2006 certification, and makes grand claims about it's max output, just buy something like this, it claims 1240W, but still only puts out 200w RMS. Or I can take a dump in a box and put "2000w" on the side of it and sell that to you. It won't be certified to any industry standards, but when you tell people you got 2000w for $50 they'll be impressed enough to ignore the smell.
Anyway, easy to nitpick anything, but for something that's actually certified, offers good signal-to-noise ratio, and is cheap, you can do something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+KAC-8404.html
As for that amp...
Problem #1: That "1000 watt" amp is really 50W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm = 200 Watts.
Problem #2: I couldn't find anywhere that it said that this amp was rated according to the CEA-2006 standard. So you can't even say that it's even a 200W amp according to the industry standard. Any other specs for it are up for interpretation because of this, including the total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio, and other factors which are important when you're searching for an amp that gives out a clean signal.
If you're looking for something cheap, not measured to the CEA-2006 certification, and makes grand claims about it's max output, just buy something like this, it claims 1240W, but still only puts out 200w RMS. Or I can take a dump in a box and put "2000w" on the side of it and sell that to you. It won't be certified to any industry standards, but when you tell people you got 2000w for $50 they'll be impressed enough to ignore the smell.
Anyway, easy to nitpick anything, but for something that's actually certified, offers good signal-to-noise ratio, and is cheap, you can do something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+KAC-8404.html
#5
09-13-2010, 07:36 AM
Which phoenix golds are you talking about? If it's their $60 range speakers, then the amp you put on them really doesn't matter in terms of what the sound quality will be.
As for that amp...
Problem #1: That "1000 watt" amp is really 50W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm = 200 Watts.
Problem #2: I couldn't find anywhere that it said that this amp was rated according to the CEA-2006 standard. So you can't even say that it's even a 200W amp according to the industry standard. Any other specs for it are up for interpretation because of this, including the total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio, and other factors which are important when you're searching for an amp that gives out a clean signal.
If you're looking for something cheap, not measured to the CEA-2006 certification, and makes grand claims about it's max output, just buy something like this, it claims 1240W, but still only puts out 200w RMS. Or I can take a dump in a box and put "2000w" on the side of it and sell that to you. It won't be certified to any industry standards, but when you tell people you got 2000w for $50 they'll be impressed enough to ignore the smell.
Anyway, easy to nitpick anything, but for something that's actually certified, offers good signal-to-noise ratio, and is cheap, you can do something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+KAC-8404.html
As for that amp...
Problem #1: That "1000 watt" amp is really 50W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm = 200 Watts.
Problem #2: I couldn't find anywhere that it said that this amp was rated according to the CEA-2006 standard. So you can't even say that it's even a 200W amp according to the industry standard. Any other specs for it are up for interpretation because of this, including the total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio, and other factors which are important when you're searching for an amp that gives out a clean signal.
If you're looking for something cheap, not measured to the CEA-2006 certification, and makes grand claims about it's max output, just buy something like this, it claims 1240W, but still only puts out 200w RMS. Or I can take a dump in a box and put "2000w" on the side of it and sell that to you. It won't be certified to any industry standards, but when you tell people you got 2000w for $50 they'll be impressed enough to ignore the smell.
Anyway, easy to nitpick anything, but for something that's actually certified, offers good signal-to-noise ratio, and is cheap, you can do something like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+KAC-8404.html
#6
09-13-2010, 08:39 AM
^thanks for the help. I got phoenix gold RSD65CS 60w rms components with tweeters and crossovers, it seemed like great speakers for the price and they sound good imo. In the rear I got phoenix gold coaxial speakers. Is that kenwood amp really worth the switch? Isn't the sony xplod the same 600W?
If you were willing to spend $400+ you could get better sound by replacing both the speakers and the amp, but I'm guessing you're on a tighter budget or do not desire to reach that level right now.
So I'm pretty sure most people here would agree, that if you want a sound quality improvement for $100, you can't do any better than going to www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and picking up a pack of CLD tiles and putting them in your doors, trunk, and around the wheel wells and the firewall. If you're lucky they still have the not-quite-square-but-still-just-as-effective ones available at a discount.
#7
09-13-2010, 10:25 AM
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#8
09-13-2010, 02:34 PM
I guess I'll keep em for now cuz they are loud. Especially after I changed my headunit. But there's no suck thing as too loud. Eventially I'll put some JLs or some competition speakers there. I'm more worried about doing a custom trunk setup this winter. With fiberglassed trunk lid with really loud speakers mounted there, for this I'll make sure I get a great amp. Imo at shows most noise comes from the trunk
Last edited by NjMatteSedan; 09-13-2010 at 02:40 PM.
#11
09-14-2010, 04:30 AM
Probably because they did it wrong, wrong, wrong.
#1 Wrong thing: Buying dynamat rolls - anything on a roll is roofing material, not sound deadener.
#2 Wrong thing: Laying down layers of vibration controller thinking it's better (see "Look how shiny my trunk is, it's 3 layers of dynamat!"). Once a panel's vibration is dampened (only about 25% coverage of a panel will do this) there's very little that putting more of that on will do for you. Once you've stopped a panel from vibrating, it won't make any sound itself, but sound produced on the other side of the panel is still likely to get through, that's why you need vinyl+foam barriers put in place to stop other sound frequencies. People who overload their cars with vibration dampeners like to knock a panel and show you how solid it sounds. That's great, if you get in an accident and don't want it to wake you, but it won't block all the various frequencies of sound that are made elsewhere.
#1 Wrong thing: Buying dynamat rolls - anything on a roll is roofing material, not sound deadener.
#2 Wrong thing: Laying down layers of vibration controller thinking it's better (see "Look how shiny my trunk is, it's 3 layers of dynamat!"). Once a panel's vibration is dampened (only about 25% coverage of a panel will do this) there's very little that putting more of that on will do for you. Once you've stopped a panel from vibrating, it won't make any sound itself, but sound produced on the other side of the panel is still likely to get through, that's why you need vinyl+foam barriers put in place to stop other sound frequencies. People who overload their cars with vibration dampeners like to knock a panel and show you how solid it sounds. That's great, if you get in an accident and don't want it to wake you, but it won't block all the various frequencies of sound that are made elsewhere.
#12
09-14-2010, 07:32 AM
Probably because they did it wrong, wrong, wrong.
#1 Wrong thing: Buying dynamat rolls - anything on a roll is roofing material, not sound deadener.
#2 Wrong thing: Laying down layers of vibration controller thinking it's better (see "Look how shiny my trunk is, it's 3 layers of dynamat!"). Once a panel's vibration is dampened (only about 25% coverage of a panel will do this) there's very little that putting more of that on will do for you. Once you've stopped a panel from vibrating, it won't make any sound itself, but sound produced on the other side of the panel is still likely to get through, that's why you need vinyl+foam barriers put in place to stop other sound frequencies. People who overload their cars with vibration dampeners like to knock a panel and show you how solid it sounds. That's great, if you get in an accident and don't want it to wake you, but it won't block all the various frequencies of sound that are made elsewhere.
#1 Wrong thing: Buying dynamat rolls - anything on a roll is roofing material, not sound deadener.
#2 Wrong thing: Laying down layers of vibration controller thinking it's better (see "Look how shiny my trunk is, it's 3 layers of dynamat!"). Once a panel's vibration is dampened (only about 25% coverage of a panel will do this) there's very little that putting more of that on will do for you. Once you've stopped a panel from vibrating, it won't make any sound itself, but sound produced on the other side of the panel is still likely to get through, that's why you need vinyl+foam barriers put in place to stop other sound frequencies. People who overload their cars with vibration dampeners like to knock a panel and show you how solid it sounds. That's great, if you get in an accident and don't want it to wake you, but it won't block all the various frequencies of sound that are made elsewhere.
#13
09-14-2010, 09:20 AM
On a budget -
25% coverage of panels, plus the foam and vinyl barriers over the doors, trunk and wheel wells. The floors have some OEM foam, which is better than nothing, so you can save some money by not adding more there.
Read up on www.sounddeadenershowdown.com, the guy who runs it has a better reputation on sound deadening than I have for double din conversions
He sells stuff, yeah, but he won't try and sell you on anything you don't need, he's a rare combination of audio enthusiast, businessman and honest guy.
My remembering of the tale may not be 100% accurate, but the site used to be a bunch of tests of all the major manufacturer's sound deadening materials under fairly scientific tests, with his recommendations for different applications. He wanted more than was available and contacted the people who manufactured the stuff with the best adhesive and gave them his specs based on what he'd learned in his testing for what he wanted for his own use, and so now he sells the stuff that was made to his specs.
He took down all the comparative tests, but they can still be found on www.archive.org if you search hard enough.
25% coverage of panels, plus the foam and vinyl barriers over the doors, trunk and wheel wells. The floors have some OEM foam, which is better than nothing, so you can save some money by not adding more there.
Read up on www.sounddeadenershowdown.com, the guy who runs it has a better reputation on sound deadening than I have for double din conversions
He sells stuff, yeah, but he won't try and sell you on anything you don't need, he's a rare combination of audio enthusiast, businessman and honest guy.
My remembering of the tale may not be 100% accurate, but the site used to be a bunch of tests of all the major manufacturer's sound deadening materials under fairly scientific tests, with his recommendations for different applications. He wanted more than was available and contacted the people who manufactured the stuff with the best adhesive and gave them his specs based on what he'd learned in his testing for what he wanted for his own use, and so now he sells the stuff that was made to his specs.
He took down all the comparative tests, but they can still be found on www.archive.org if you search hard enough.