Has anyone used the Alpine PDX-F4 or PDX-F6.

I am thinking of purchasing one of these.

The PDX-F4 does 100 x4 and 200x2

The PDX-F6 does 150x4 and 300x2

I have a JL Audio 13TW5 250 watts RMS 1200 max in a box built to spec in the Coupe trunk and I have Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 100 watts RMS 400 max.

The PDX-F6 would be about right for the sub with the RMS but the components would need the gain turned down.

I have done this setup before on 2 lower power Class A amps the first one blew over time (it was about 5 years old) the second runs fine and sounds good but both would overheat after 45 min of heavy use.


I listen to Hard bass and rock and metal.

I need to know if these amps tend to overheat much or any other issues they may have.

 

I have an Alpine MDP-450 which is 100x4 or 150x4 I think. I don't remember the specs without looking and I'm lazy. I've never had any problems with anything ALPINE. Never had a single Alpine overheat.

 

Just get amps with more RMS than your speakers need, that way they're not working at 100% of their capacity 100% of the time.

Headroom is a good thing, and keeps amps much cooler.

Also, the PDX are D-class amps, so they tend to run much cooler and efficiently than your AB-class amps.

 

Thanks guys I will go ahead and purchase the PDX-F6.

 

I purchased the PDX-F6 set it up then I went out on the town blasting my music it took 10 min for it to overheat and about 15 for it to start playing music again.

When I got home I started looking at reasons for Amp's to overheat on the internet.

The 2 reasons listed were first improper ground (I don't think this is the problem) and the second was not setting the gain properly causing the amp to not run at full efficiency.

I had never set the gains on this amp as is recommended by the articles I found, I just turned them up to a point that sounded good (not all the way up) but I never set it up according to my volume on the head unit.

I will fix this as soon as the rain we are having passes

Could this be what is causing the issue?

How long do you guys blast your systems before your amps will overheat if at all?

 

Bet you didn't set the gain right, or you're running them @ a lower ohm load

 

The Ohm load should all be at 4 Ohm how can I test if it is wrong?

 

^ Tell us *exact* model of your speakers/subs and how it's wired to the amp.

 

I have a Alpine PDX-F6 1 JL Audio 13TW5 and I have Infinity Kappa Perfects 6.1.

I have the Kappa Perfects go to a crossover and then 1 set of wires out to the amp on channel 1&2 + to + and -to -.

I have the Sub bridged on channel 3&4 + on channel 3 and - on Channel 4.

I generally listen to music on volume level 18 and when I cranked it to 25 it had a real nice clean sound but overheated shortly thereafter.

I saw a site that said to lower the gains all the way down then turn your head unit volume all the way up then slowly rain your gains until the sound is a little distorted then lower the gain until it sounds clean.

I hope this is the info you were looking for.

 

That is incorrect

the amp will either do 300 x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged or 150 x 4

Also, the sub is 600w 3 ohm

not 250w 4 ohm.

Next time, do some better research.

Here's what you do

Bridge the amp to the components so they'll get 300 per

and pick up another amp for the sub.

This amp would work perfectly.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p475/X6001...-Amplifier.htm

 

I did do research thanks

I spoke to Alpine before I purchased and they said in 3 speaker mode I could use 2 channels at 150w each and bridge the other 2 channels to get 300w for the sub.

The sub runs at 250 RMS as a optimum setting.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=30 Bottom of the page.

Also I believe if its 3 ohm its rounded to 4 is that correct?

I would then have a 4 ohm system all around.

 

If it did, you wouldn't be having the overheating problem.

Your amp can do that, but needs a 4ohm load to do it.