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Adding a second amp - wiring??

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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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INDPNDT G's Avatar
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Question Adding a second amp - wiring??

I'm looking for some input on possibly adding a second amp to the stock bose system or doing the DD install and running speakers off the power of the head unit. I don't have the cash to do the head unit, the speakers and the amp for the speakers so it really is one or another.

So far I've run the 4 gauge amp wire with 80A fuse from the battery to the trunk for my JL 500.1 J2 which is powering a 10w3v3-4 in a 4080 box.

I'm looking to upgrade the sound coming from inside the cabin. I'm thinking of adding a second amp and changing out 4 speakers; 2-door, 2 rear and remove the stock 6x9's to create a port to the trunk for the 4080.

Is it possible, or even make sense, to run two amps off the stock bose headunit?? I'll probably need an EQ for the second amp as well won't I?ALSO!! If I do add a second amp do i need to run a second 4gauge wire from the battery? I'm hoping I don't have to change the power wire I just installed to a 1/0 gauge wire with distribution block by the battery.

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P.S. - I know changing out the stock HU would be a great thing to do but I'm worried it is going to be a huge giveaway to anyone looking in the window to break in... I'm trying to keep it a sleeper system.
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If I were to skip adding the second amp with an EQ would it make more sense to just change out the stock HU and run new wires to the 4 speakers off the power of the DD headunit?? (not my ideal since it will cost much more and is now a dead giveaway of an aftermarket and $$$$ system)
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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The 4 gauge should be ok for a second amp, so long as you don't go over 300 watts (800 total RMS) with it. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

My recommendation, however, is to replace the headunit, since factory headunits are so damn unreliable. Nothing like an awesome sound system that has no working headunit to drive it.

You can always install the headunit inset just a little and cut the factory faceplate to fit over it, like a detachable faceplate, only in reverse.

Or JVC makes some detachable faceplate DDin units.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Oh good call!!

The 500RMS goes out the window since that rating is at 2ohm and I will be running the amp at 340RMS at 4ohm, correct??

Running the sub at 4ohm and 340RMS should give me 460RMS to play with for the speakers... if I'm understanding this correctly. haha

Also - is there a thread that shows the proper way to link up two amps? I can search it if you don't know of one off hand.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 04:48 AM
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The two amps only "link" as far as connecting to a distribution block for power, using the pre-amp outs from one into the inputs on the other and sharing the remote power on wire.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 04:54 AM
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i can put the distribution block in the trunk correct? Or does it need to be closer to the battery?

(sorry - audio newb)
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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it would be cheaper to put the block in the trunk

other wise you will have two runs of wire all the way back

I ran two runs of 4ga cuz I had it, should of bought 0ga but I was impatient =),

depending on the amp, an 8ga kit maybe all you need to add

or if your budget allows...buy a new amp. Possibly a 4-5 channel amp?? thats would I would look into if space is an issue and you dont wanna have to run new wire(s)
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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Yeah, distribution block in the trunk would be fine.
 
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