I recently purchased my G35 coupe 5at and have been on cloud 9 since! Now it is time to put in the stereo.......I have some old components from my previous car and some new ones......but still have some decisions to make and thought some of you may want to help a guy out......

I will use the stock Bose head unit but the Bose amp and all the other speakers are history.....I have the following parts………..

One (1) Clarion Amp APA4162
(40W RMS @ 4 ohms, 4 chan)
One (1) Clarion Amp APA2103
(50W RMS @ 4 ohms, 2 chan)
One (1) Coustic XM-3 Xover
Two (2) Infinity Ref6000CS (6.5" Woof & 1" Tweet Component)
(90W RMS @ 4 ohms, 92 dB)
Two (2) Clarion SRR6923 (6"x9" Coaxial)
(40W RMS @ 4 ohms)
One (1) Lanzar DC Series (10" Sub mounted in 4080 Box)
(350W RMS @ 4 ohms)

I am planning on installing the Ref6000CS Components in the doors, disconnect the rear seat Bose 6.5" speakers (leave them to cover the hole but disconnect the wires), replace the rear deck Bose 6"x9"speakers with the Clarion 6"x9" Coaxials and mount the 10" sub on the trunk.

Use the Clarion 2 chan to drive the 10" sub, the 4 chan to drive the 6"x9" Coaxials and the 6.5" Infinity Woofs and purchase another amp and xover for the 1" Tweets. I am hoping someone can suggest what size and brand of amp and xover to buy and maybe a better configuration for the amps. Could the new amp drive the sub and the old Clarion 2 chan drive the Tweets? Maybe need a better amp for the Infinity 6.5 Woofs (90 W RMS)? As you can see I have already spent a bit of money and don’t want to spend a bunch more for little gain (the 5% rule). I also like tight hard hitting mid base punch (fast jazz, r&b, rock)….. not booming one note bass.

Thanks for any and all suggestions!

 

Will that 2ch amp push the sub? I'm to lazy to look up the specs=).

-JustICE

 

In the old car I used the mono output (this should double the output to 100W RMS????).........it filled the low end ok

 

After some thinking I have decide to use the Clarion 4 chan for the front sound stage and the Clarion 2 chan for the rear 6"x9" Coaxials. I will purchase a new mono amp (350W RMS)with a bypass feature for the 10" Sub. I will use the bypass feature to feed the Xover and I can increase the power to the 10" Sub.

 

Usually a 50x2 @ 4ohm is also stable to 100x2 @ 2 ohm, and pushes 200W @ 4 ohm when bridged, unless there are other limiting factors.

 

I think you could use more power for you front stage and rear fill. The 40w per channel is very close to the original Bose output. I would think something about twice the power of the Clarion amp would be ideal.

04 G35s 6MT BS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem
Warning: Objects in Mirror Are Losing!

 

The stereo system is in and it sounds fantastic! I made a few adjustments as follows.........

Used the stock Bose head unit with the following parts………..

One (1) Sony Amp XM-DS1600P5 (awesome!)
(500W RMS @ 4 ohms, mono)
One (1) Clarion Amp APA4162
(40W RMS @ 4 ohms, 4 chan)
One (1) Coustic XM-3 Xover
Two (2) Infinity Ref6000CS (6.5" Woof & 1" Tweet Component)
(90W RMS @ 4 ohms, 92 dB)
Two (2) Clarion SRR6923 (6"x9" Coaxial)
(40W RMS @ 4 ohms)
One (1) Lanzar DC Series (10" Sub mounted in 4080 Box)
(350W RMS @ 4 ohms)

I installed the Ref6000CS Components in the doors (using the supplied passive xover between the woof and the tweets), disconnected the rear seat Bose 6.5" speakers (left them to cover the hole but disconnected the wires), replaced the rear deck Bose 6"x9"speakers with the Clarion 6"x9" Coaxials and mounted the 10" sub on the trunk using a 4080 box.

The Sony Amp is driving the 10" sub, the Clarion Amp is driving the 6"x9" Coaxials and the 6.5" Infinity Woofs and the 1" Tweets.

The sound is amazing........hard hitting bass and clear clean sound. I can turn it up to 107 db (too loud, it hurts a little), but stays nice and clean.

BUT..........there is one small problem. When I first installed the system, I used a grounded LOC, and the sound level was ok but had to turn the LOC output all the way up, and it still didn't hit like I wanted it too, so I removed the grounded LOC and wired the factory HU wires straight to the xover and BAM the sound level is great, but now I have a buzzzzzzzz, and I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump, a nice steady frequency buzz with the engine running.......either with the HU off or on. I can crank up the sound a little and not hear it but of course I need this buzz to go away. I tried a noise filter and it didn't do anything to lessen the buzz.......I added a second grounding wire from one side of the truck to the other and nothing happened. I am now thinking that the HU ground should be located in the trunk with the amps ground (both amps are grounded in the trunk at the same point). Any suggestions or can you suggest a LOC with a ground feature? The NAV-774 seems to be a good choice but no ground wire..........

 

Might be the alternator, did you try heavy gauge grounding lines?

 

Shooter are you running a common ground for all your amps? If not it could be a ground loop.

 

The buzz is a constant frequency, no change in the pitch, therefore it is not the alternator or other engine noise (the buzz would change pitch as the rpms are changed). This is why I think it is fuel pump noise. I do have both amps grounded in the same location in the trunk on the passenger side. I used one of the studs under the black plastic spare tire tool holder. I removed the paint from the stud and used a nut to secure the 2 amp grounding wires. I even added another grounding wire from this same point to the other side of the trunk just to see what happens. No luck.
I started with a grounded LOC and did not have this noise but the signal voltage was so low out of this LOC I didn't like the sound. So I cut the grounded LOC out and hooked the HU straight to the xover........maybe I need to reduce the input level to the amps? But I like the power and would like to filter the noise and keep the voltage level where it is..........Maybe I need to ground the HU in the same place as the amps? Does anyone know if there is a HU ground in the wire loom that went to the BLOSE amp? I looked at the wiring schematic and need help on this one. Thanks for the input guys! Happpy New Year!

 

I found the source! It turns out there is something wrong with the XM3 Xover...........I can wiggle the RCA plugs and make the buzz apprear or dissappear........when I disconnect the rear channels, the buzz goes away! I took it apart but could not locate the problem, so I have orderd a new Coustic XM6 Xover and will replace ASAP. Thanks for all your help!

 

The bose system is nowhere near as much power as a decent 40W RMS amp.