Hi there!

I recently purchased a 2003 G35 sedan (w/ Bose). I have been researching possible upgrades to the stereo for some time...

I have the following items from a previous car:
1. MB Quart Q series component system
2. Precision Power amp (model PC 4800.2)=4x100w @ 4ohm
3. 10" Image Dynamics sealed sub.

I went to a local cutom install shop today, explained my plan below, and asked for an estimate:
1. use existing Bose HU
2. replace Bose amp w/ my PPI amp
3. replace front stock speakers w/ MB Quart components - I want to power the MB Quarts with 1 PPI channel for LEFT side, and 1 PPI channel for RIGHT side
4. bridge the remaining 2 PPI channels to power my Image Dynamics sub

Long story short the guy at the shop said this can't be done - I don't understand why not.

He started saying something about how the Bose can't be combined with other stereo components, and if I did do this my system would be a ticking time bomb. He said he would need to REMOVE the Bose HU and custom design a new space for an aftermarket HU - I DON'T HAVE THAT MUCH MONEY!!!

The weird thing is that using the Bose HU is the ONLY difference from my last car stereo setup (I had a top-end Kenwood HU). Is the Bose HU really that retarded?

Can anyone here possibly fill me in on some more details how you patched into the Bose HU, OR direct me to where I might be able to find more info?

ANY advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Maybe this stereo shop hasn't worked on a G35 before but I think adding an amp, new speakers and a sub while keeping the stock Bose head unit is easy.

So easy I did it myself for my car.

The only difference to your old setup would be an LOC to connect the Bose HU to the amp, it provides the RCA outputs to the amp.

You also need to find the wiring diagram for the Bose amp in the trunk to connect the LOC and speakers outputs.

There have been lots of discussions here on the quality of the sound coming from the Bose HU so maybe he was trying to warn you.

 

easily done, a lot of G owners have done it, including myself. Like spud said, get a Line output converter and its all easy, all the work done in the trunk, except running the power cable for the amp. You will definatly notice a better sounding system, go for it.

 

LOL ticking time bomb. I love that. This guy was either trying to get you to buy more stuff (like a custom dash which would cost major cash) or he was so overly busy that he didn't want you as a customer. Either way he is a liar or just ignorant. It will cost you all of 80 bucks to install this yourself. Or pay someone prob around 200 (just a guess) to do it for you. Just get a LOC (~20 bucks) and an amp wiring kit (says 80 bucks but I called them and they dropped the price to 60).

Not sure where you live but if your in the anaheim area call up JT at JT audio or if your further south call Rudy at sound advice. Both have done a lot of work on g35's and won't rip you off.

My only question is are you ok with having mids and highs only from the front seat?

 

I 'd get a new HU.

 

Spud/ChuckP - thanks for the answers to my question!

--------> I found the link to the SEDEAN BOSE WIRING DIAGRAM <--------

justICE - thanks for the links - that helps alot! BTW - I live in Melbourne, FL
justICE - any ideas on how to improve this (w/out buying new speakers...)? that would be cool.

I would DEFINITELY prefer to have a more robust soundstage, but I don't know how to do that. Also, cost is a factor - I have at most $500 to spend (including installation), and I would actually prefer to spend less. I am leaning towards paying for installation b/c I don't have the tools, the time, and I am recovering from my 5th knee operation (I am only 27)! YIKES!

? --> In my research today I have seen people using both 2 and 4-channel LINE OUTPUT CONVERTERS (LOC)s - does anyone know what is best?

? --> I thought it would be nice if I used the rear stock speakers as "filler" - is this where the 2 or 4 LOC comes in to play?

My ONLY goal is to have CRISP/CLEAN/TIGHT sound - while staying below my $500 limit. I welome ANY improvements/suggestions to my current system.

? --> I have also read that a lot of people are adding EQs to their setups - does anyone have any suggestions on type/model? Also, there seems to be some discussion (or at least I am confused) about where an EQ is best placed - between HU and amp **OR** between amp and the speakers?

Thanks everyone!
jdcatch

 

JD, you want a 4 chnnl, go on ebay and get a peripheral 4 channel LOC for 30 buck. Reputable brand for good price. Study that wiring diagram, only clip off the wires from the deck for the front 2 speakers. Connect those to your LOC. Then run your amp wiring kit. Replace the speakers in the front with you Quarts. Hook up the power to your amp stick those RCAs in, takes those other 4 clipped wires that lead to the front speakers, splice on some speaker wre (cause your gonna need to), and your done. enjoy it, i got the front components and my 6.5s in the quarter pannel running off a JL 300/4 w/ the stock deck, it sounds much cleaner, and your gonna have some nice quarts, enjoy it.

 

Well there are a couple things you can do for under $500 (hopefully including install).

First,
I do not know the power requirement of your sub (because I am to lazy to look it up) but I would guess 250W would be plenty (how bout you look it up and let us know). Looked like you were only going to supply 200W with your first configuration anyhow. Call rudy and ask him how much the memphis 16-MC250D will cost you. I believe they were selling the 500x1 amp for $275 so the 250W I will guess would be what 225? Then pick up a set of JL coaxials for the rear deck ($90 bucks). This way you can have your existing amp run the seperates in the front and the coaxials in the back. Then have your new 250W amp push your existing sub. You will have ~$180ish for the install. Again, I dont know what people will charge for the install.

Second,
Do exactly what you have mentioned but leave the bose amp in also. Use this amp to push the existing rear deck and rear seat speakers. Kinda ghetto but at least you would have sound in the rear. Cost would be the install of 1 amp, isntall of a pair of seperates up front, ~20 bucks for a loc and 60-80 for the wiring.

Oh yeah and getting "CRISP/CLEAN/TIGHT" sound (definitely subjective) but getting something for nothing is a dream we all have.

 

ChuckP/justICE - thanks again for some great info! i am starting to feel like i am ready to tell that punk at the install shop EXACTLY what i want done.

i think the best way to set things up for me ($-wise, right now) would be to use justICE's 2nd option:
so, if i use the BOSE AMP for the rear speakers (and my PPI amp for the MB Quarts up front) - when i adjust BASE/TREBLE settings on the BOSE HU - does it adjust the audio settings for ALL speakers? or, just the rear Bose speakers?

Thanks again!

 

It will adjust all. Do you have a crossover for the sub? OR does the amp let you differentiate the front and rear cut off frequencies? You prob don't want highs and mids going through your sub=)

 

Yes, if you power the rear speakers with the bose amp, and front speakers with your amp, the fade, balance, trebble, and bass adjustments will work properly. You just have to be sure to splice the correct wires running into your amp. The signal out of the stock head unit is a high frequency. Some amps have the ability to accept either high or low frequencies. Also, I have an extra SoundGate Line Out Converter (4 channel). This converter can input high or low frequencies, and then convert it to either high or low as well (just a little switch). It is the same converter I am using for myself, and it work perfectly. I did the same thing you are wanting to do:
JL Audio XR 6.5 inch front compnent, and rear coax.
2 10w3v2 Subs, JL Audio 300/4 amp, JL Audio 500/1 amp, LOC 4.4 (line out converter)

I have had this for about two months, but in the next couple of weeks I'm upgrading head units to the Kenwood DDX7015, stock ain't gonna work any more, especially with the quality speakers I put in. Good Luck, and PM me about the Line out converter or anyither questions.


Also, you will have to make mounting brakets for you MB Quartz to fit prperly in the doors.

 

justICE - my PPI 4800 amp has crossovers for each channel - that means it's a passive crossover, right? this is how i i set the frequency response ranges for my last setup w/ this equipment...

AP_G35C - thanks for the heads-up on the mouting brackets for the MB Quarts - i was pretty sure that was the case too.

i ordered the peripheral SVEN4 LOC today - it should be here in a few days...

so, basically - once the LOC arrives i can go to the install shop and:
1. show them a copy of the BOSE AMP WIRING DIAGRAM
2. explain that i want use the LOC in order to power the MB Quarts up front (with the 1st 2 channels of the PPI amp)
3. leave the remaing speakers to be powered by the BOSE HU/AMP
4. bridge the remaining 2 PPI channels for the 10" Image Dynamics sub

is that what i need to do? seems simple enough - if this is right i guess it will probably cost $100 (or less) for the install!

let me know if i am making any mistakes here, and thanks for everyone's great advice so far.

 

That sounds right. I would advise the shop to install the LOC at the input end near to the bose amp, and avoid going into the dash at all.

 

Hey JustICE......do JT Audio make customs boxes for the G35 also?

 

it seems many memebers on this site are very happy once they add a separate EQ. do i need to get one?

the MB Quarts come with their own crossover, and the PPI 4800 amp also has a crossover for each channel. will an EQ still have that big of an impact on the sound quality?

anyone have any opinions in regards to an EQ? i would prefer one that that would be in the trunk vs messing up the "stock" look of the interior of the G...

thanks!