Hey guys,

Need help on this one.

After like 5 years of use, I had my custom system taken off (stock HU). They did have to get back to my HU to take off the PAC ipod adapter.


Anyways, they finish everything (took about 4 hours to return it to stock).

I turned on the car and it has

Check Engine Light on
SLIP light on
VDC OFF Light on

The guys at the shop were clueless as they only disengaged the battery and reworked the speaker wiring.

Can anybody shed some light into this? What should I do? Car is running fine and everything seems to be working.

Thanks in advance.

Jason

 

First step would be hit up AutoZone or similar chain auto parts store and have them run it for codes. It's possibly just a fluke and needs to be cleared but see why it's giving you check engine before you worry about anything else. There are all sorts of possibilities (including: your car just might be confused) so narrow them down with a code scanner at an auto parts store.

 

Ok. Went to advance auto.

Code says P0335.

Car takes like 4 seconds to turn and start

Could this be related to the system uninstall or just a fluke that it happened right afterwards? (still in their parking lot)

 

Ok, so I have good news and bad news. The good news is that there's almost no chance whatsoever that a stereo install caused this code. That IS good, right?

The bad news is that code P0335 is a Crank Shaft Position Sensor. I have no GD idea why that would pop up after the stereo aside from either a) it's a fluke and you'll want to get that checked out, b) you had some really crazy *** wiring going on that was someone tied into or has since interfered with the sensors, or c) god hates you.

Assuming it's not c) see if you can get the code cleared and see what happens, but should that pop up again you may want to wait till someone more sober and knowledgeable than I steps up to the plate, or just run to the dealership and hope for the best. Sorry bro, hopefully it's something stupid and easy, but that doesn't sound like a good code to be throwing.

 

Hahaha. Thanks for lifting my mood. Good stuff.

I think it must have been awful timing. Anyways, after researching it, it's like a $200 fix. Not too bad in the grand scheme of things.

What sucks is that I went through this trouble of putting the stock stereo back because I was trading the car in. Now I gotta shell out $200 just to get that light off when I take it for trade in valuation. Ohhhh well....

Would still like to hear other opinions on how the hell a crankshaft sensor fails immediately after a stereo install. Unlucky

 

My wife's went out by just driving. Mere coincidence. I believe you can get the part for like $60-70 at a nissan dealership, if you have some hand-tools and time, you can replace it yourself.

 

Well. Took it to Tires Plus. They quoted me like 75 for the part (werent sure cause parts supplier was closed) and 58 for the labor. And I got a 25 off 50 coupon. So, I'll be thrilled if this ordeal costs me just north of $100.

Now I hope it's just the sensor and not an underlying issue. Been a hell of a day so far....

 

A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:

Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt
Failed PCM

 

Seems awfully coincidental to me. I would, at least, have the stereo shop check the voltage at the crank angle sensor. There should be a pink wire and a black wire and you should have 12vdc across them.

I'm not saying it is impossible for the sensor to fail while sitting at a shop, but I would at least cover the basic bases before just replacing the sensor.

If I remember right, you have a 2005 coupe - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/ec.pdf check out page 292 for the wiring info.

 

Hey Kevin. What's up man? Yeah, I thought it was awfully coincidental as well. Let's see what Tires Plus says today. If the new sensor still gives me that code, we'll have to check your suggestion. I'll know more this afternoon.

 

Ok. Here is what tires plus told me:

Not only do I have to replace the crankshaft sensor, but the failure is like a domino affect and I need to replace the two camshaft sensors as well. Quoted me almost 600 bucks. I told them not to do it. Then they call back and says "well, we can replace the crankshaft sensor, but the service light would probably come back on within a few weeks". Quoted me like 190 for just the crankshaft sensor.

Was this a load of crap or are the camshaft and crankshaft sensors intertwined?

 

They are in no way connected. They may be on the same fuse, but I don't think the car would even run if all three were bad.

The reason the car takes 4 seconds to start with the bad crank sensor is when the ECU realizes it doesn't have a correct crank sensor it falls back on the cam sensors. However, without a valid crank sensor the ECU can't determine proper phasing of the motor so it switches to batch injection instead of sequential fuel injection. You'll see your gas mileage drop a bit but the car will still run. This is at least how I remember it all working, it's been years since I've messed with all those fun sensors.

The crank shaft sensor is a hall effect non contact sensor. It changes electronic states when metal is put in front of it. The metal that goes in front of it is parts of the reluctor wheel that is on your flywheel. It has little teeth cut out of it. That is why it is odd for the sensor to just go out - it doesn't touch anything and therefore it doesn't wear. Hall effect sensors are preferred because of their long life.

The cam angle sensors are the same type - non contact hall effect. I've never actually seen what they read off of, but I would imagine it's a similar type reluctor wheel or even the teeth of a gear.

All three sensors are independent circuits going back to the ECU - they may share power like I mentioned above but I've never researched it.

What I would do is have them replace the sensor and see what happens. If you get another crank angle code you know they didn't fix it. If you start getting cam angle codes you know you have a new problem.

 

Load of crap. Just replace what's broken.

 

Ok.

Still need help.

The shop told me they would replace the cam sensors at no labor charge. I gave them the go ahead with the understanding that if it didn't solve the problem, then I don't get charged. They agreed. They replaced them and it still has the same problem.

So, I replaced the Crankshaft Sensor and the 2 cam sensors and still had the issues with the slow ignition and service light on.

What can I do? Are there any wires in the cabin that could be causing this? Here is what the stereo shop did:

Disengaged the battery. Took out amp rack and replaced it with the stock Bose system. The took out my AV Electronics Video switch which was connected to the NAV screen through 4 wires. They took that out and re-attached the 4 wires to their orignial colors. They then took out the stock HU to release the PAC Ipod adapter.

Could any of those steps cause this?

What is my next step? Take the battery off for 24 hours?

I don't know what to do (and neither does the shop)

heeeellllpppp

 

Any updates?