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Sub orientation - Towards rear or towards seat?

Old Aug 19, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Leksikon
Tennessee, looking forward to seeing the finished product, should be a fun project! What thickness plexi are you using (and how do you plan to cut it)? I messed with the idea of a plexi wall on my box, then the possibility of an insert, but I think I'm going to pass, which is a shame because the basket of my subs really should be displayed, they're pretty
3/4" plexi. I plan on ordering it from eStreetPlasics.
http://www.estreetplastics.com/Clear...Thick_s/35.htm
They are the absolute cheapest I have seen, by far, with GREAT prices. They have precut pieces at different thickness and they can also cut to the dimensions that you like. So, with my box already designed, I know the exact cuts I need and will have them do it. Of course, the side of the enclosure where I plan on putting the plexi will be double baffled anyway, so 3/4" will be a perfect fit.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 02:24 PM
  #17  
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Hey LeksiKon, I measured the space under my sedan rear shelf, full width too.
Your suggestion to build another sub bass enclosure under it and support it as a hanger type is clever.

My box will have a 7" panel as the most narrow aspect because of the driver mount length. Let's say that is the vertical side; and hung 1" under the existing rear deck.

a) Pro, is that no floor space is lost.

b) Con, because the box is 7" deep and I'll keep it 12" wide; not to extend beyond the rear window; the other side becomes 24" long (side to side) to keep 0.8 cu ft volume.

c) Con is that because the bottom of box is under hung that leaves 9 1/2" headroom / clear of the carpet floor.

It's a 9 1/2" tall x 12" deep x 37" wide (with 12" full height unblocked) nook to slide something inside or use for the amp rack. But still it is only 7 1/2" and to me not so much to gain other than clean layout.

My concept to build the box 15" wide (side - side) x full height(17 1/2") parallel against the 67 deg back seat leaves a more useful truck space. 22" side - side full height cubby space under the rear deck for stuff.
I'm building the 10" sub box that way. I thank all here for the discussion which leaves us all with the common understanding that "in the trunk is, well, in the trunk" (any box is a compromise of cargo space for SQ and SPL enjoyment).
 
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #18  
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Getting back to work today, got my triple-DIN (?) and trunk layout mocked up. Not sure what I'm going to do about making the glove box head unit look good yet, going to get it wired up and worry about that later... maybe I'll try my hand and building a little ABS wall around it. The green painter's tape in the trunk represents the back wall of the sub enclosure and still leaves plenty of room for the DEQ-P9, Xtant 4180x and PPI 2350DM. They're all actually shorter than the factory side panels that normally ring the spare tire so I might reuse them and notch out the insides so they fit around the amps, will worry about that later also. Anyway, pics:



 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #19  
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sorry, i havent had a chance to grab pictures, should be able to tonight after work. but a question, with the amp rack design i have in mind, that would go against the back seat in the trunk. it would fill up most of that opening. i had the idea because most people install their sub boxes there. what i didnt realize , is that it might block most of sound, almost fully enclosing the trunk to itself. am i being paranoid? or would 2 sheets of MDF covering most of the opening block it out alot.

in which case.. i am either going to have it only rise like 6 inches, so its more of a platform, instead of a wall, or go crazy, and do 2 separate ones on the sides of the trunk (should be fun...)
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #20  
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Can't the MDF be ripped in strips about 2" wide? Like furring strips in carpentry.

The 2" wide landing strips will mate to the amps feet only to be screw points.
The strips are screwed to the back seat panel.

The amp stands off the back seat panel 3/4" or more if you choose; leaving air under a majority of the amp body. Sound / energy gets relieved to the back seat. The amp even will have air increased circulation. Just my thoughts I have not done it.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #21  
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that idea is actually really good ! thank you! my original design was to have the amps attached right to the back seat with 2 strips like that ( and i did do that when i only have 1 amp), but i didnt think 2 amps would fit there, and i was always worried about slamming the seat and having my amps shoot off.

i think il build it, so its 2 A shaped sides, prob a 67 degree agnle to fit the back seat, and a 75 degree angle on the front to create a nice staged angle for viewing.
il attach 2 or more strips on the front (more would be for aesthics) and to run the wires along the back of them to the sides.
the back will be blank, or mabye a strip or 2 for support.

then tell me if you guys think this would work. I am debating throwing all the wires to the back right of the rack in order for me to swing the rack forward so i can throw my snowboards through the back seat. it would be like a hinge for the rack. picture a door opening. the only problem with this is that the power cable would be very close to the audio cables. will i get noise if the cables are all together for a few inches? or does noise only appear when they are run for the length of the car together? if they do cause noise, is there a way i could wrap the power cables in a few thickness's of electrical tape to eliminate any exterior EMF fields?

sorry to hi-jack the thread!!
still in for pictures btw!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #22  
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Be efficient with your audio and signal wires. Keep the power wire spaced form them.
Do all you can to route the power cables away for the audio. Even if it means extra turns and length. Do not run your power( high current) wire parallel to any audio or signal unless more than 18" apart.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 12:34 PM
  #23  
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sorry for the big pictures
for the subs, i didnt have the extra funds/time/patience to use bondo , make it all smooth and pretty. so i wrapped it in houndstooth fabric i do however need to pull it tight and secure it, its only being hold on by the ring right now.

but thats my set up atm, picture a flat stand against the back seat fro the amps in another week with that 2 inch stripping to attach the amps to.





 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:24 PM
  #24  
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The hurricane left us with nice weather today, so its fiberglass day, wish me luck!
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #25  
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You are lucky if the hurricane left you with good weather and no un-planned expenses.
Enjoy the toys, some assembly required, batteries not included.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 05:25 PM
  #26  
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has anyone ever built a box to fit under the floor mat? Now im not one to take out the spare tire(its saved me in my Z and my G a couple times) but i was thinking maybe take out the plastic inserts, move the spare to the far right side, put the jack and tools on top of the spare. for the box, build a wide, kinda shallow box with the remainder of the space under the floormats and then have the sub pointing upwards on the far left side. of course i would need a mesh cover on it but i kinda miss my trunk space :/ i have an alpine 1043d
 
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #27  
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Hdmark, that build-up looks pretty sweet! I just bought my 04 Coupe a few weeks ago, and am just getting into Infiniti customization. I've got a 12" Dayton that I stole from my last vehicle (2000 Wrangler, future wife said it had to go, and I needed something more practical) and will probably end up doing something like you, although I still want to be able to fit a bag of golf clubs back there.

As for those of you toying with the idea of seat-facing subs, remember the Rule of 38: Take your subwoofer surface area, and divide by 38 to get the minimum distance the face should be from another object. Example, I've got a 12" sub, roughly 113 square inches, divided by 38= 3". There is a much more complicated equation (i could give if requested), but the Rule of 38 is pretty accurate for audio acoustics and Mach #, etc. Hope this helps!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #28  
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IMO who cares what it looks like when you open the trunk, all that matters to me is how it sounds when I'm driving.
Seats down, ported box, fire into cab. Easy as pie.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #29  
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I already built a custom sub box into the g35 coupe facing the driver with a plexiglass window on the vback to show off the baskets. it looks and sounds great. I used a table saw to cut my 1/2" plexi. Just make sure u tape the line u want to cut with masking tape so if the plexi chips a little the tape will hold it together. This will stop lots of chipping from even happening as well. I will post pictures of my entire build in a month or so.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #30  
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oh yea for some cheap plexi look on freckleface.com, the site looks sketchy but i ordered alll my plexiglass from them and it is quality stuff. 1/2" should be fine.
 
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