Aftermarket Nav - Factory Interrupt 06 Sedan
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Aftermarket Nav - Factory Interrupt 06 Sedan
Hi guys,
Ive been doing a lot of searching on this but I keep striking out. I recently saw a back up camera/nav system that sits in the rear view mirror. It seems like exactly what I want to add nav and a back up camera to my 06 sedan which obviously didn't have Nav to begin with.
Anyway... The main reason Im looking on here is I am wondering if there is any way for me to wire in the NEW aftermarket NAV's audio out into the stock BOES HU so that when its directions come on it mutes what ever is playing and says my turn directions.
I thought I had previously seen a thread where some one had wired in their phone through these inputs, but I can't seem to find it now.
Is it possible? Do I need some kind of a relay?
Thanks in advance,
Stephen
Ive been doing a lot of searching on this but I keep striking out. I recently saw a back up camera/nav system that sits in the rear view mirror. It seems like exactly what I want to add nav and a back up camera to my 06 sedan which obviously didn't have Nav to begin with.
Anyway... The main reason Im looking on here is I am wondering if there is any way for me to wire in the NEW aftermarket NAV's audio out into the stock BOES HU so that when its directions come on it mutes what ever is playing and says my turn directions.
I thought I had previously seen a thread where some one had wired in their phone through these inputs, but I can't seem to find it now.
Is it possible? Do I need some kind of a relay?
Thanks in advance,
Stephen
You might be able to use the factory inputs for nav voice, which override the radio. You just have to find a GPS that has a +12v trigger wire to mute things, and put a 3v bulb to reduce it to the 9-10v that the factory radio expects to switch the audio input.
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You, my friend, rock!
Hi Wrathernaut,
First off let me say, Ive done a LOT more research on this and I think I have figured out a way to make this work. However... I say that because most of what I have found has Wrathernaut as the author or as a significant contributor... so Im thinking I might not have thought this through and it may not be quite this easy!
I have looked through quite a few of the older threads and found which PINs are responsible for the audio and the "mute" for where factory NAV would hook up in my 06 Bose equiped sedan.
Here is what I am proposing. I want to be able to simply use ANY NAV system that has a headphone out. Here is my simple proposal:
headphone out to RCA L and R female ->
R goes to a VOX relay. This is modified with the microphone replaced with a mono audio in jack. The 12v relay output runs to a 3 volt X??? watt light bulb (or similar resistor as I would prefer not to have lights behind my dash/to replace if it burns out and a lightbulb really is JUST a resistor) and then after the lightbulb gets done into to pin 24 on the connector
L goes to positive and negative (pins 32 and 30 respectively).
Should there be any problems with "loudness" of the volume for either the VOX "sensor" or the Audio Input on the factory Bose system a simple line driver can be installed. This one in particular can tune each input individually so VOX and Stereo in could be tuned to best suit each other.
While audio quality might suffer with a line driver we are looking for Turn by Turn navigation not HiFi audio so I can suffer with a little distortion (as long as I can hear the turns).
So Wrathernaut you seem to be the best resource on this thus I have two questions for you.
Firstly, what would the possible resistor be inline to act like a 3v lightbulb OR what wattage light bulb would I require to not damage the stock Bose HU.
Secondly Im a little scared to cut into the STOCK harness.... does anyone know where I can get a patch cable, a like 3 inch cable with male and female ends to the "m39" connector referenced at the "audio unit" in the above linked schematic so that I can make my patches into that and then just plug it into the radio "in line" so it passes through all the other pins from the stock harness? OR where can I get a male and female end with BARE wire and make my own?
First off let me say, Ive done a LOT more research on this and I think I have figured out a way to make this work. However... I say that because most of what I have found has Wrathernaut as the author or as a significant contributor... so Im thinking I might not have thought this through and it may not be quite this easy!
I have looked through quite a few of the older threads and found which PINs are responsible for the audio and the "mute" for where factory NAV would hook up in my 06 Bose equiped sedan.
Here is what I am proposing. I want to be able to simply use ANY NAV system that has a headphone out. Here is my simple proposal:
headphone out to RCA L and R female ->
R goes to a VOX relay. This is modified with the microphone replaced with a mono audio in jack. The 12v relay output runs to a 3 volt X??? watt light bulb (or similar resistor as I would prefer not to have lights behind my dash/to replace if it burns out and a lightbulb really is JUST a resistor) and then after the lightbulb gets done into to pin 24 on the connector
L goes to positive and negative (pins 32 and 30 respectively).
Should there be any problems with "loudness" of the volume for either the VOX "sensor" or the Audio Input on the factory Bose system a simple line driver can be installed. This one in particular can tune each input individually so VOX and Stereo in could be tuned to best suit each other.
While audio quality might suffer with a line driver we are looking for Turn by Turn navigation not HiFi audio so I can suffer with a little distortion (as long as I can hear the turns).
So Wrathernaut you seem to be the best resource on this thus I have two questions for you.
Firstly, what would the possible resistor be inline to act like a 3v lightbulb OR what wattage light bulb would I require to not damage the stock Bose HU.
Secondly Im a little scared to cut into the STOCK harness.... does anyone know where I can get a patch cable, a like 3 inch cable with male and female ends to the "m39" connector referenced at the "audio unit" in the above linked schematic so that I can make my patches into that and then just plug it into the radio "in line" so it passes through all the other pins from the stock harness? OR where can I get a male and female end with BARE wire and make my own?
I'm not re-checking the wire numbers, but it all sounds right to me, and since you're tricking the factory radio into thinking there's the nav controlling it, you shouldn't need any additional relays.
Here's the issues I can think of:
#1 big one - I don't know if non-nav units respond to interrupt/voice signals on those wires.
#2 - The output from the GPS unit may be mono, so you may need to run a splitter. That's pretty minor issue though.
I don't know what resistor you'd need to drop the voltage appropriately, my electrical engineering math is way too rusted in my brain to figure it out. There's plenty of dim 3v bulbs that last forever though. If you do figure out the right one, post it up.
You shouldn't have to cut into the stock harness at all. All you need to do is find some pins that fit into the stock harness. It comes apart fairly easily and reassembles cleanly too.
I just video'd me taking the harness apart to accept more pins (or remove existing ones) I'll get it posted up soon.
I think the extra pins used to bypass Pioneer's vehicle-in-motion lockout may be the right size, and can be purchased here: (unfortunately, only in multiples of 30)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=1960695
I don't have a micrometer to check the size though.
Here's the issues I can think of:
#1 big one - I don't know if non-nav units respond to interrupt/voice signals on those wires.
#2 - The output from the GPS unit may be mono, so you may need to run a splitter. That's pretty minor issue though.
I don't know what resistor you'd need to drop the voltage appropriately, my electrical engineering math is way too rusted in my brain to figure it out. There's plenty of dim 3v bulbs that last forever though. If you do figure out the right one, post it up.
You shouldn't have to cut into the stock harness at all. All you need to do is find some pins that fit into the stock harness. It comes apart fairly easily and reassembles cleanly too.
I just video'd me taking the harness apart to accept more pins (or remove existing ones) I'll get it posted up soon.
I think the extra pins used to bypass Pioneer's vehicle-in-motion lockout may be the right size, and can be purchased here: (unfortunately, only in multiples of 30)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=1960695
I don't have a micrometer to check the size though.
Last edited by Wrathernaut; Sep 8, 2011 at 05:11 PM.
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Getting Excited
I'm not re-checking the wire numbers, but it all sounds right to me, and since you're tricking the factory radio into thinking there's the nav controlling it, you shouldn't need any additional relays.
Here's the issues I can think of:
#1 big one - I don't know if non-nav units respond to interrupt/voice signals on those wires.
#2 - The output from the GPS unit may be mono, so you may need to run a splitter. That's pretty minor issue though.
I don't know what resistor you'd need to drop the voltage appropriately, my electrical engineering math is way too rusted in my brain to figure it out. There's plenty of dim 3v bulbs that last forever though. If you do figure out the right one, post it up.
You shouldn't have to cut into the stock harness at all. All you need to do is find some pins that fit into the stock harness. It comes apart fairly easily and reassembles cleanly too.
I just video'd me taking the harness apart to accept more pins (or remove existing ones) I'll get it posted up soon.
I think the extra pins used to bypass Pioneer's vehicle-in-motion lockout may be the right size, and can be purchased here: (unfortunately, only in multiples of 30)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=1960695
I don't have a micrometer to check the size though.
Here's the issues I can think of:
#1 big one - I don't know if non-nav units respond to interrupt/voice signals on those wires.
#2 - The output from the GPS unit may be mono, so you may need to run a splitter. That's pretty minor issue though.
I don't know what resistor you'd need to drop the voltage appropriately, my electrical engineering math is way too rusted in my brain to figure it out. There's plenty of dim 3v bulbs that last forever though. If you do figure out the right one, post it up.
You shouldn't have to cut into the stock harness at all. All you need to do is find some pins that fit into the stock harness. It comes apart fairly easily and reassembles cleanly too.
I just video'd me taking the harness apart to accept more pins (or remove existing ones) I'll get it posted up soon.
I think the extra pins used to bypass Pioneer's vehicle-in-motion lockout may be the right size, and can be purchased here: (unfortunately, only in multiples of 30)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...ductId=1960695
I don't have a micrometer to check the size though.
Thanks again for your help.
Im running with the assumption the mute is in the stereo.... WAY more fun this way. I can't imagine that the stereo's are any different from the NAV to the NON NAV side else I would imagine the pin outs for this mute to be somewhere other than on the HU, however I have been wrong before... Im still going to try it... cause why not!
Im eagerly awaiting your video for taking the harness connector apart. For pins, rather than ordering the ones you suggested could we not just order a harness kit for the car, like you would use for installing aftermarket DD kit and take it apart and use those pins?
Also, I looked at my old physics books and couldn't figure out what size resistor would be needed. Mostly cause I looked at them and not in them... so LAZY. So I went and posted the situation on a physics help web page. Im sure some people will get back to us shortly.
Another quick question for you Wrathernaut... How did you figure out that the voltage needs to be dropped to 9 or 10 v?
The reason I ask is not because I doubt that your right (you seems to be spot on man!), but because I found this thread:
I've finally made the mute function work with my cellphone handsfree (which is a Cellport)!!
There was one "minor" problem, however. The audio unit is set up to mute upon a +12V signal to terminal 24 as indicated. But most devices that send mute signals (like my handsfree unit) are set up to provide a closed circuit to ground. In other words, the "mute" wire from the Cellport is normally an open circuit, but when the phone is active, the wire assumes ground potential. To make it work on the G35, a relay is therefore required. Any simple 12V type will do, as the currents are very small. You will have to wire (+) battery power and the device (ground) mute signal to the switcher side of the relay. On the power side, connect (+) battery and a wire to terminal 24 of the audio unit. When the ground signal is given, the relay switch closes and passes +12V to terminal 24. Instant mute!!
Keep in mind that only the front speakers are muted. This is the same behavior that the Nav voice has.
There was one "minor" problem, however. The audio unit is set up to mute upon a +12V signal to terminal 24 as indicated. But most devices that send mute signals (like my handsfree unit) are set up to provide a closed circuit to ground. In other words, the "mute" wire from the Cellport is normally an open circuit, but when the phone is active, the wire assumes ground potential. To make it work on the G35, a relay is therefore required. Any simple 12V type will do, as the currents are very small. You will have to wire (+) battery power and the device (ground) mute signal to the switcher side of the relay. On the power side, connect (+) battery and a wire to terminal 24 of the audio unit. When the ground signal is given, the relay switch closes and passes +12V to terminal 24. Instant mute!!
Keep in mind that only the front speakers are muted. This is the same behavior that the Nav voice has.
Thanks again for all your help.
Im going to do this up as a nice DIY if I can get it to work!
NOW... how to get a pop up screen in the cubby?
Stephen
Nine to ten volts is the voltage listed in the factory service manuals for that wire. Twelve may work, but if it burns anything out, you're sol. The aftermarket install harnesses do not connect too that harness, only the two larger ones. You could probably get away with tucking a write in that spot of the harness, but using the proper female pin is definitely preferred
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Okay, picked up a fancy caliper today to get measurements:
1.4mm wide, 1.7mm high and about 16.1mm long.
Length isn't particularly important though.
This one's very, very close - if it doesn't fit easily, a little muscle should get it to fit just fine.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_401701_-1
1.4mm wide, 1.7mm high and about 16.1mm long.
Length isn't particularly important though.
This one's very, very close - if it doesn't fit easily, a little muscle should get it to fit just fine.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_401701_-1
Last edited by Wrathernaut; Sep 10, 2011 at 05:39 PM.
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I have some information about voltage regulators as well... Im just confirming a few things regarding resistors and Ill post the info. Looks like we should be able to get a CONSTANT 9v rather easy...
Stephen
As promised:
This "voltage regulator" should do the trick takes anywhere from 11.5 - 35v in and outputs a constant 9v.
A reviewer on the site stated he gets a variation of 8.65-9.35 volts. I cannot find a inexpensive regulator that will output a steady 10v as most of the minimums are above 12.5v. Either way... most electronics are designed to have some variation... it would have been better to find a 9.5 that varies between 9 and 10 v as that would be exactly what the system is looking for... I still think this will work.
I have also made a decision on what Im going to use for the actual "nav system" this whole thing is all about. Originally I wanted to go with a high end magellan, garmin or TOMTOM system. I was looking for the following features:
On Off with switched power from car.
Live traffic.
Lifetime map updates.
Back Up Camera.
Headphone or Line Level Out
However the premiss for this hole project is to get the nav interrupt working. I cannot find a "big name" manufacturer that produces something with a back up camera and a line level or headphone out. They simply don't make them. I was really willing to throw a lot of money at it. Even going to some of the "high end" trucker systems, I would have to pull the unit apart and cut out the existing speaker, change it to line level and then route it through. I was looking at probably close to $700 by the time the smoke cleared just for the system and camera and then I would have to start working on it... Cutting into a brand new GPS unit... probably not the best idea I have had.
I found these 4ucam systems. This One comes with Nav and a Back Up Camera and is only $239.95 . It also features a headphone out... novel concept eh. I plan on HARDWIRING the camera, which is a few more bucks add $25... but Ill be in to new nav, integrated with my HU for under $350. Ill also have the ability to unplug the GPS and use GPS like iPhone and still get the interrupt... which is also worth it. Primarily I plan on using my iPhone... however when I cross the border into the US and the data plan drops out... I like to be able to switch! The back up camera is always a nice feature too!
The other GREAT thing is I think that this will be able to mount in the GPS cubby with out modifications... like these guys did image of his setup here!
Stephen
Stephen
As promised:
This "voltage regulator" should do the trick takes anywhere from 11.5 - 35v in and outputs a constant 9v.
A reviewer on the site stated he gets a variation of 8.65-9.35 volts. I cannot find a inexpensive regulator that will output a steady 10v as most of the minimums are above 12.5v. Either way... most electronics are designed to have some variation... it would have been better to find a 9.5 that varies between 9 and 10 v as that would be exactly what the system is looking for... I still think this will work.
I have also made a decision on what Im going to use for the actual "nav system" this whole thing is all about. Originally I wanted to go with a high end magellan, garmin or TOMTOM system. I was looking for the following features:
On Off with switched power from car.
Live traffic.
Lifetime map updates.
Back Up Camera.
Headphone or Line Level Out
However the premiss for this hole project is to get the nav interrupt working. I cannot find a "big name" manufacturer that produces something with a back up camera and a line level or headphone out. They simply don't make them. I was really willing to throw a lot of money at it. Even going to some of the "high end" trucker systems, I would have to pull the unit apart and cut out the existing speaker, change it to line level and then route it through. I was looking at probably close to $700 by the time the smoke cleared just for the system and camera and then I would have to start working on it... Cutting into a brand new GPS unit... probably not the best idea I have had.
I found these 4ucam systems. This One comes with Nav and a Back Up Camera and is only $239.95 . It also features a headphone out... novel concept eh. I plan on HARDWIRING the camera, which is a few more bucks add $25... but Ill be in to new nav, integrated with my HU for under $350. Ill also have the ability to unplug the GPS and use GPS like iPhone and still get the interrupt... which is also worth it. Primarily I plan on using my iPhone... however when I cross the border into the US and the data plan drops out... I like to be able to switch! The back up camera is always a nice feature too!
The other GREAT thing is I think that this will be able to mount in the GPS cubby with out modifications... like these guys did image of his setup here!
Stephen
Last edited by s.dunn; Sep 10, 2011 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Update
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