Just wondering before I run 1500 (most likely with gains turned down cause its a good amount of power) on my stock alty and battery with the exception of the big3. Dont forget I have three televisions in the car not including new head unit. just wondering what you guys are running and if you got a HO alty instead of stock one.

 

120amp alt, right?

so

1500 / 12v= 125amps at full tilt.

That's without adding every other electrical component to the equation.

 

Electrical is never cut and dry like that. And 1500 is power rating at 14.4 volts not 12. Also I thought stock amp is 110?

 

You will get light dimming for sure.. Big 3 is a must for that much power. You will be putting a lot of strain on your Alt + Battery. My guess is it will be ok. Get a yellow/red top optima battery.

Make sure you a running 0 gauge all the way, also with the big 3.

 

light dimming at full tilt i know of, what if I tuned it down to around 1250 depending how I wire subs (2 ohm or 1 ohm) is this A LOT more appliable than 1500? Or I can wire at 4 ohms and only give around 450 to two type r's which would be underpowering them. please lmk

 

I know it's not that cut and dry, but that's a ball park figure.

 

so if I run the subs at 2 ohm so that the car is 1250 rms instead would this help out a ton?

 

Depends on the amp completely how you should wire it...

 

no.

If you're worried about your electrical, you should consider some more efficient drivers and/or amps

 

Is that 1500 watts all for your subs? What class amp(s) are you using?

A true 1500 wrms system played at high volumes for extended time would not be sustainable with OEM alternator and battery. You may be able to turn it up for short periods of time, but eventually you'll drain the battery faster then the alternator can charge it and the resulting voltage drop will start shutting down the electronics in the car (air bag controller, ABS/VDC controller, BCM, ECU, etc).

 

a 1000 watt mb quart onyx type D class and an mb quart 500/4 channel a/b class for speakers. I can wire the subs at 4 ohms and then only have around 1,000 rms total. Would this be appliable?

 

That sub amp at full volume (assuming an efficiency of 75%) will draw ~87A by itself.

I would start looking in to a high output alternator if i was me. I wouldn't expect too much play time out of the system at that kind of current draw.

 

I think I am going to wire it at 4 ohms instead and add a battery to the trunk. this will definately help and I am sure the car can handle 1,000 watts. I have seen guys with 65a alt run 900-1200

 

The total wattage isn't as important as the efficiency and the balance between the speakers and their respective amps.

I'm running a grand total of 880 watts when everything is running at full power, and it never is (gain on both amps is around 40-65% of max). Theoretically if everything was cranked up the subs would get 350 each and the fronts would get 90 per side, but that has never happened and it's still impossible to be inside the car at anything approaching max volume. You should have an amp that is strong enough and efficient enough that you never need to crank the gains all the way to get your desired volume output.

Realistically I'm probably utilizing 600W total for two 12s and a 2-way component set, but they're pretty decent amps.

 

Adding a 2nd battery without addressing your alternator issue is not a good option. The 2nd battery will be a constant load on the alternator, meaning the alternator will be charging virtually 100% of the time.