I'm (hopefully) trading in my car in less than a year, so I can't really justify spending money on a double din install. What I'm looking for is a cheap solution to get me auxiliary sound for the next few months. I keep seeing two options:

1) Systems that are ipod interfaces that include an aux input for $150+.

2) Systems that are an fm modulated aux only...which I assume don't sound that great.

Is there anything that is not an antenna bypass for $100 or less? I don't need ipod/iphone hookups...just the aux cable.

 

I've been searching for this exact same solution. Hopefully some of the knowledgable folks on this forum can chime in on this one

 

From what I've read it's more expensive to add an aux input to factory bose than to just replace the HU. If you get the Metra and don't mind losing bluetooth you can do it for ~$300.

 

Just get a WIRED fm modulator for about $50, then the scosche nissan to motorola and motorola to nissan antenna adapter pack for about $15. PAC IS77 has both iPod and 3.5mm aux inputs.

 

Add me to the list waiting for someone to chime in also

 

You're going to be waiting a very long time. These cars have been out for about a decade now and the cheapest options are over $100.

Wired FM modulators really sound good though. Better than any FM station, and honestly, unless you're using 256kbps MP3s or higher quality audio as your source, you won't hear the difference.

Or you could just upgrade your radio.

 

^ Thanks. I know upgrading the HU is best, but then is starts getting expensive, I might lose some of the factory controls (BT, steering wheel, etc?) and I'm more go than show, so I'm OK with a stock-ish interior/sound.

Does our Bose have a connection for a CD changer at the back? I read that many car CD players have this and that adapters are available that can provide RCA connections, which would allow for a high(er) quality Smartphone hook-up. Any chance our Bose unit also has some type of expansion port like this?

 

The satellite connections on the factory harness are the only "expansion" port, something like the ISNI-531 is what you're looking for to add an AUX port.

 

Thanks Wrathernaut!. Now for my last 2 noobie questions:
1. Is a satellite connection better than a wired FM modulator?
2. How do I know if my Bose has a sat connection? (My '07 G Coupe 6MT was imported from the US)

 

An AUX adaptor is cheap.

This is what I have and it works fine. Plugs straight into the factory HU and gives you two inputs.

 

Yes, the satellite connection is going to be better. Probably worth the $30 or so difference if you never plan to upgrade your radio, but since the radios in these cars go out frequently, it's my opinion that your money is better spent saving towards a full radio replacement. Even the dirt-cheap single-din radios have aux inputs these days.

The only g35s that don't have the sat connection are the early '03s.

 

This is almost perfect... Do they make one with USB? It would be nice to power my phone stealth and not have an exterior cable going into my lighter socket.

Is the install do-able for a noob?

Edit: On the PAC website I could only find this ISNI531 model, which has RCA and 3.5mm:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=45

 

I think the AAI-NIS is the previous generation device. Still available in some places though.

They don't do one with USB, since USB isn't an audio-carrier, it would require a whole lot more to get audio through it - decoder, some way of browsing files, rather than just passing the analog signal through the right wires at the right levels. They have stuff like that for iPod, since it's one device, rather than the millions of USB devices out there that are all different in file structure, encoded filetypes and such.

 

What if I spliced the lighter socket wires and added a 2nd lighter socket behind the dash/stereo? This way I could plug in my lighter socket-to-USB charger and run it stealth behind the dash to my phone mount.

Is this doable/safe/realistic option?

 

Yeah, piece of cake, but if you're going that far, just disassemble the socket-to-usb charger and run wires that tap into the wires connected to the factory lighter socket. Less bulk to try and hide, and I trust soldered wires with heatshrink on them much more than I trust a cigarette lighter plug to stay in a socket over an extended period of time.