Hello All

I've got together all my items for my install and I've gotten everything apart. What seems like the simplest part is giving me the most trouble.

I've got my OEM radio and navigation out of the car but can't seem to get at the fourth screw in the bracket that holds the radio in. It is obscured by the metal piece that guides the navigation up and down.

Can anyone tell me how to get at this screw? Thank you!!!

 

I don't remember having any trouble at all getting to any obscured screws doing my car with navigation.

Can you give a better picture, because I don't think there should be any problem with screw access.

 

Thanks Wrathernaut! Your guide has been the best and helped me tremendously. I finally figured this out, I just needed to disconnect the navigation unit from the bracket, once its off you can get to that fourth screw no problem.

While I have your ear, I got everything connected in my install and tested it all and it seemed to work just fine including the steering wheel control. Then I got everything mounted and my Metra Axxess stopped working. I read somewhere that the voice control unit in the trunk on top of the Bose amp has something to do with the steering wheel control. I disconnected it and removed it along with my amp. Could this cause an issue? I tried reconnecting but my steering wheel control has not returned? I'm checking my grounds next but you have any suggestions?

Also, where did you connect your ground wires up front for the head unit and for the amp in the trunk? I haven't found a place I really like!

 

Now I'm really stuck.

I measured the resistance at my two ground points in the trunk and up by the head unit all the way back to the ground cable at the battery and they are both about 0.2 ohms. Mind you this is a crappier voltmeter but I can't imagine it would be that far off.

I still don't have the Metra Axxess working and now I've noticed popping in the speakers when head unit turns off. I've read this can also be caused by bad grounds but as the readings from my voltmeter seem good I'm not sure where to look anymore.

Any suggestions?

 

I grounded the amp on one of the seatbelt anchor bolts after sanding down to paint. If you had the bluetooth module, you'll need to bypass it by connecting the yellow, green and red wires at the bluetooth module. Just connect yellow to yellow, green to green and red to red. All the grounds from the radio can be grounded to the metal frame that the radio bracket bolts in to. Easy spot to connect to it is right at the front, under the radio:

 

Thanks for your help! I used those exact ground locations and they are working great but I am noticing a slight alternator whine. I'm going to check the sanding I did to ensure it is as solid as possible. The whine is only noticeable during radio silence but I would obviously like to get rid of it

I'm a little confused as to the steering wheel module. I realized that I first tested the Metra with the steering wheel controls BEFORE I had touched the Bose amp and the voice control unit. It was working great at that point.

Once I yanked all that stuff out is when it stopped working. So now I have the Metra Axxess behind the new head unit, my new amp in the trunk connected to the speaker connections also in the trunk. The Bose amp and voice control unit are gone. So where am I going to do this work? In the trunk or behind the head unit (please say in the trunk ;-)) If so am I just making a loop here?

 

Alternator whine usually is a bad ground somewhere, but can also be helped by the "Big 3" upgrade.

The harness that plugged into the bluetooth module, connect the red to red, yellow to yellow and green to green. Without that bypass, the signal has no way to get to the headunit, since it goes through the bluetooth module before it goes to the headunit. Without the bluetooth module, it has no path to the radio.

 

Awesome! The info about the bluetooth module is excellent! Exactly what I was hoping for!

I did test both the head unit ground and the trunk ground and it reported very low resistance (<0.5 ohms). Is it possible that even with a low reading the ground could still cause an issue?

One last question. After about 3 days of working on the car with most of that time having the battery disconnected and working on the installation once complete the "Check Engine Soon" indicator is now on. The car is running great, no issues with engine, gas cap, etc. Have you ever experienced this?

Thanks so much for your help! Couldn't have done it without your help!

 

Just to be sure, the whine increases/decreases with engine RPM, correct? If it doesn't, it's noise, not alternator whine.

I haven't had issues with the CES light after a no-power situation for a few days. Try pulling the code with a reader or the sequence to get it to flash the code (instructions for this are somewhere on this site). It could just be in need of a reset, or you may have bumped something during the install you shouldn't have.

 

Yes exactly whine increases with higher RPM's, decreases with lower RPM's. No whine at idle.

Thanks I'll head over to auto parts store to get the code!

 

So in case anyone checks this thread, here is an update:

I had my local auto parts store run the error code check.

The code reported was P0603 which is: Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory Error

Which basically sounds like exactly the problem that would happen if your battery was disconnected for a while. I had the guy reset it which they said they are normally not allowed to do and it was off after a short time.

 

Hack to the future... Thank you bunches!