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Is this the right harness?

Old Apr 15, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Is this the right harness?

Hi,

I would really need your help people.I'm replacing my hu with an aftermarket one due to the CD/Climate Controls not functionning. I've decided to do it myself since the instructions seemed pretty clear.

I bought a harness from a local shop that the tech. gave me, knowing I have an '03 coupe but I didn't specify I had the BOSE sound system, on the package it writes something like 2000+ nissans. I have no knowledge in electricity whatsoever so I went about connecting the cables of my new JVC KW-AV71BT with the harness.

When I arrived at the orange cables I jammed, so I came on the forums and found Wrathernaut's excellent guide...fine got my answer, JVC orange & white cable with the harness'es orange cable for the dimmer.

But then I saw that he recommends the PAC ROEM-NIS2 to keep the Bose AMP.

I really have the simple harness, should I stop everything and get the one above? I'm not chaning my BOSE

Here's what my connected wires look like:


Thanks
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Anyone? Can I skip the Bose amp by doing this (not using the PAC ROEM-NIS2) or will I lose my Bose Sub?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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There's no separate audio channel for the 6x9 "subs" in the 2003 coupes, so you won't lose them if you keep the bose amp in the equation, however, by sending the unbalanced audio signal from the aftermarket headunit to the bose amp, you're going to run into signal incompatibility issues. - See this post here for more details: https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-video-electronics/86249-upgrading-sound-system-keeping-stock-hu.html - It's primarily about swapping amps, but the signal compatibility issues are the same either way.

Some people have had some luck without the PAC ROEM-NIS2, so it's worth it to give it a listen with that harness, but keep in mind that the subs are the most heavily equalized of the audio signals from the amp, so they'll suffer the most by going without the ROEM-NIS2.

If the sound is terrible and you really want to bypass the bose amp, taking it out of the loop, run the front speakers and rear 6x9's. If your headunit supports it, try and run the 6x9's with a low-pass filter to try and get a little more out of them.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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I just did some more research and from what I 've read, the ROEM is mandatory to avoid any issues. I thought we had a real sub and that the ROEM allowed it to function...now, from what I understand we have those very bad 6x9 "subs" as real speakers, and the BOSE amp equilizes them properly.

Thanks for all the information so far Wrathernaut. I would need your opinion. For the cheapest fix, I should go for the ROEM? Chances are I won't be satisfied with the sound quality without it? I already find the BOSE system bad, would't want it to be worse.

And from the pictures of a user's conection, I can connect the headunit's black ground cable to the PAC ROEM one (and also connect the E-brake wire) and that would be sufficient right? No need to plug it after one of the two bottom screws that hold the bracket?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 2JZ
I just did some more research and from what I 've read, the ROEM is mandatory to avoid any issues. I thought we had a real sub and that the ROEM allowed it to function...now, from what I understand we have those very bad 6x9 "subs" as real speakers, and the BOSE amp equilizes them properly.

Thanks for all the information so far Wrathernaut. I would need your opinion. For the cheapest fix, I should go for the ROEM? Chances are I won't be satisfied with the sound quality without it? I already find the BOSE system bad, would't want it to be worse.

And from the pictures of a user's conection, I can connect the headunit's black ground cable to the PAC ROEM one (and also connect the E-brake wire) and that would be sufficient right? No need to plug it after one of the two bottom screws that hold the bracket?
It's the cheapest option to avoid even worse than factory bose sound, but it's not really a fix, more of a band-aid. If you want some improvement, get a new amp. A decent 4-channel will let you get more out of the front speakers and rear 6x9's, and set you up for a big jump in quality when you get new speakers.

Use as good of a ground as you can, not just the black wire from the ROEM. All the ground wires should be combined and grounded solidly to bare metal.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 01:30 AM
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I got it thanks. Maybe I'd prefer to include a 12" and an amp for it. Would the ROEM still be necessary then? I mean could I run both a 12" and the 6x9s at the same time, thus requiring the ROEM or is it preferable to take the 6x9s off the equation then?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 2JZ
I got it thanks. Maybe I'd prefer to include a 12" and an amp for it. Would the ROEM still be necessary then? I mean could I run both a 12" and the 6x9s at the same time, thus requiring the ROEM or is it preferable to take the 6x9s off the equation then?
If you keep the bose amp, you want the ROEM. If you're replacing it, you do not need he ROEM, just use a standard harness (70-7550) and run your own RCAs and amp power signal wire to the trunk.

If you add a real subwoofer, remove the 6x9s to give a good path for the bass to travel from the trunk into the cabin.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Thank you. I just ordered everything from Amazon, the Metra Axxess ASWC-1, the Metra 40-NI10 and the PAC ROEM-NIS2. I'll decide whether I put in a 12" or not in the meanwhile. If I do I'll just lower the sound on the 6x9 speakers or the bass on the equilizer and increase the woofer.
 
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