Some cars have issues with te PAC and Scosche adapters; no matter where you set your gains it sounds like ****. If you can't make adjustments on the PAC I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the speakers and bypassing the bose amp or installing a 4 channel in its place w/ new speakers. As wrathernaut and I have discussed on other threads Bose quality control blows!

 

oh okay ill look into replacing them. However i just tested the speakers and the front ones work fine. but the back ones are the ones that fully dont have bass and arent as loud could that because of the wire or something? also do you think the blue wire i mentioned before is correct or should i take it and plug it with a constant power red wire

 

The blue wire with white strip is your amp turn on wire and needs to be hooked up to switched power, not constant. Im sure theres something off with how you wired your harness but we cant "look" at it over the internet. What i thing you should do is take it to a car audio shop and have it looked at. The idea of replacing all your speakers and amp is a great idea but is never cheap and it wont fix your bass issue unless you do a 5 channel and add a sub which will obviously add to the cost.

 

^^^ NO NO NO. You have plenty of resources here. Why spend the money? No matter what anyone says I'm a firm believer that the audio system in the G35 has serious issues and blows even when it works. My 99 S-10 had a better stock sound system!

 

My advice: jl zr speakers all the way around, 12w6 in the back and powered by an hd 900/5 amp. Kenwood dnx9990 head unit gives you 5volt preouts amongst all the other features including nav, hd radio etc. i hope you have almost unlimited financial resources.

 

As SgtRed said bypassing the Bose amp is highly favorable for your setup. The best advice would be to replace the amp completely but I understand sometimes u can only do a bit at a time.

1. Bypass the Bose amp . You can wire the inputs and outputs together to keep from running separate speaker wire. Your speakers will now be powered by the headunit internal amp. Note: I recommend just disconnecting the rear decklid speakers. You could wire them up to the rear side speakers but they are base speakers only. Base is best handeled by a separate sub.

2. It sounds like u have everything wired correctly at the headunit but as stated earlier hard to tell without seeing in person. I know it's a pain but if u take pictures of the wiring at the headunit end we should be able to figure out if u have any wiring mistakes (depending on picture quality n clearity)

3. Definitely look into replacing the stock speakers. This will help with base response , sensitivity, and clearity. Also stock bose speakers suck and are 2ohms which are not compatible with some amps as 4ohms are more common.

4. The best way to improve base response is a sub. This large speaker only has 1 job function that's base. It handles low frequencys better than any other type of speaker period. If base is important to you plan on eventually adding an amp + sub.

 

No navigation built into a headunit these days is worth the price premium over the non-navigation units. Especially when you consider that just about everyone has a smartphone with voice-controlled navigation (not available in any current-generation headunit).

I'd say go for the Pioneer x8500BH or X5500bh instead. If navigation was a $50 addition instead of $300-400, I'd consider it a good option.

 

Youre right. I trust my nav though and really appreciate it on road trips and excursions into the mountains where there is no cell phone service. Also, i have a bad taste in my mouth with pioneers new stuff. I like the gui and the look but not impressed with function. Kenwood excelon decks are, in my opinion, the best for sound systems. If you want flashy lights and ****, youll like pioneer.