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Old May 5, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #1  
Kyle Barbaro's Avatar
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Remote Starter

sup guys, I got a remote starter installed in my 6mt a few weeks ago. Its been intermittently having issues where after its remote started, the doors will not unlock via the key-fob. Like I said its intermittent it works most days and then some days it doesn't.. im wondering if im doing the remote start combination in order to set it correctly.. anyone else have this issue? I have a Viper 5904 on my 05 6speed
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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I have that system on my 03 6mt
I havent had that issue
I would take it back to ur installer to have it corrected
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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I had a similar problem with my K1500, never knew what the actual issue was though. I usually just unlock it before using the remote start. If I'm warming it up in the morning, I'll usually just go ahead and crank it, seeing as how it seems to work fine after about 5 minutes.

Good luck getting this problem fixed! It'd be interesting to see what causes this.
 
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Old May 7, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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Arrow Splice

More than likely it is a weak connection to the factory wiring. If the installer used inline splices like the one in the photo there is a high probability that the clamp did not 1) penetrate the factory wiring shield or 2) the added wire to the remote start system is not making contact with the splice. This is a relatively simple fix.

The installer should be able to identify, based on the symptoms, which wire is at fault and should have it corrected within 20 mins, if that. I have used many of these on my audio installs and it wouldn't surprise me if they did the same here as it leaves the factory wiring intact without cutting and splicing the old school way. Hope this helps a bit...
 
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Old May 10, 2013 | 10:19 PM
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If the installer used the above style crimp you should find a different installer!

The first question to answer is how are the doors interfaced? Are they hard wired in to the doors (doubtful), did they do the BCM "empty pin" trick (possible), or did they use a data module (probable).

The solution to the problem will depend on the method used to control the door locks.
 
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Old May 10, 2013 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by KPierson_
If the installer used the above style crimp you should find a different installer!

The first question to answer is how are the doors interfaced? Are they hard wired in to the doors (doubtful), did they do the BCM "empty pin" trick (possible), or did they use a data module (probable).

The solution to the problem will depend on the method used to control the door locks.
YEah, didn't see this, I don't pay much attention to alarm posts.

Those crimps cut into the factory wiring, and may damage the wiring inside. They usually give a fair connection, but soldering is the only connection method that I'd expect any professional to use. Yeah, you give up about 1/4 of an inch of the original wire, but it's easily reversible by re-soldering the old wires back together.
 
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Old May 11, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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You shouldn't give up any of the factory wiring if done right. The wire should never but cut. Strip a little back, wrap the new wire, solder it, and tape it. If you ever want to take out the added wire you can just peel the tape back, cut the added wire, then tape it back up. Always use a high quality electrical tape (I will ONLY use Scotch 33+) and you should never have any problems.

I can't even count how many issues I have personally seen resolved by switching from TTaps or Scotchlocks to soldering.
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 09:41 PM
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Kyle Barbaro's Avatar
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think i found a culprit.. seems to not wanna unlock when I have my air conditioning or heat on ?
 
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Old May 26, 2013 | 12:14 AM
  #9  
Kyle Barbaro's Avatar
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yupp its when my air conditioning is on!! how ****ing weird is that ?
 
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