Now to Ground them I use the 8AWG wire to one amp then piggy back with an 8AWG to the next AMP....

 

with the amp Power and Grounds connected i added the EQ and the EQ doesnt need those thick 8 AWG wires that the AMPs do.....but need a good power and ground none the less....so I piggy back its +12V (Battery wire) to the best connected power and grounds in the car now (the AMPS)

the EQ is also slim so it clears when the seat is all the way back and doesnt hit even though its kind of off to the side..

 

Next step though would be running the "remote" or Acc wire..and here is the pic

 

SORRY ABOUT THIS.....MORE EXPERIENCED G OWNERS TOLD ME ABOUT MY BRAIN FART..

PLEASE SEE PIC FOR CORRECT FUSE HOLDER PLACEMENT....FUSE SHOULD BE MOUNTED UNDER THE HOOD CLOSER TO THE BATT IN CASE OF SHORT

Hey but this doesn't mean I'm stupid....LOL

The rest of this is pretty much on point

 

well back to the REMOTE/ACC wire hook up. Run your AC"remote" wire to AMPs connector that says either "remote" or ACC.

Hook up the EQ's remote to the AMPs remote connector also..and if you have 2 amps piggy back from one AMP remote connector to the next AMP remote connector...you can use down to 18AWG for this power connection baecause it doesnt pull alot of current

 

Factory speaker harness wiring colors

Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver

Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver

Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver

Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow

Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White

Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green



Head unit output colors

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple


Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver

 

Well continuing here are the wires to the cars speakers, if you follow the wire codes above....here is the pic of them and what they look like....

I cut these wires from the connector and used couplers to extend speaker wires to the 4 chan AMP

 

Now to address the above question by Euro. In this pick I'm showing how I extended the wires to the Cars FACTORY speakers that will be run to the my 4 Channel amp..

There is a picture of a combo wire stripper and crimper tool within this picture


You need to get a wire crimper to terminate the wire ends of the 4AWG wire and all the other wires....You strip the housing off the wire then slide it through the hole in the spade or eyehole connector (which ever ones you have) then you put it in the crimper and squeeze.
They do have better screw-in style connectors for 4AWG as they are hard to squeeze crimp because of their thickness.

 

Next I connected the Speakers from the Radio to the input wires of the Line Level Convertor (LLC). The LLC turn my Factory Bose Radio speaker level outputs to RCA Pre amp outputs that I will run to my EQ's input. I stripped these wires and put tape on them first then Crimped them with couplers later on ( IN THE PIC THERE IS TAPE ON IT, BUT DONT LEAVE IT THAT WAY)

I then connected the RCA from the LLC and ran them to my EQ..
(On the opposite side of the Car away from the power wires)

 

Next I ran the RCA (L+R) to the EQ.
I only needed Left and Right from the Front output from the BOSE Radio to my LLC because my EQ has 3 outputs (2in / 6out):

Front L+R
Rear L+R
Subwoofer L+R

So it will break up the audio to my Amps as needed...then my amps will connect to the extended Factory speaker wires mentioned earlier....I placed those wires in a Red wire Loom to prevent having a bunch of wires all over.....view in next set of pics...after AMP RCA wiring pics.

I EQ's outputs in the pic.....Sorry to those who rather empty pics with no words...I happen to like words in the pic....(to each his own)

 

Next get some 3 foot RCA cables and hook up the FRONT L+R and REAR L + R outputs to the AMPs RCA Front L+R & Rear L+R inputs (some amps RCA ins are labeled 1+2, 3+4 but its the same crap...lol)

The EQ's Subwoofer L+R out went to my 2 channel Amp L+R RCA inputs. this I will be using to power my 10" basstube....

SETTINGS ON AMP:
This is specific for my AMPs and set up but useful info if you have limited knowledge of these settings.

The 4 chan amp has all LP (Low Pass) and HP (High Pass)filter switches set to 'OFF'....as the EQ has a HP filter builtin to High Pass (HP) at 100Hz...Simply put.. The EQ will cut out really really deep bass from going to the front and rear outputs connected to this amp once the subwoofer button is engaged on the EQ...So I dont need the Amp to HP also.

On the 2 channel AMP that will be powering my Sub, I set the LP (low pass) switch to 'ON' by clicking it over to the LP position. I then set the INPUT selector switch to "L+R".

WHY?? well, The LP I want on because it will Low Pass at the frequency I set it at which is 140Hz (not all amps have a frequency **** for the LP some have a fixed LP setting)
Simply put: It will cut out ALL the highs and just amplify the deep bass sounds being fed to it from the EQ.

I set the input selector switch to 'L+R' so it will take in the signal from both sides but not necessarily in stereo mix.
I could have also set it to 'mono L' where it would just take in signal from the left side and amplfy that , but since i had L+R coming from the EQ I said ..what the hell...(Either way will work fine)....

DO NOT ADJUST the "gain" which is the AMPs output volume until you are done hookin up and you are leveling out the sound in the Car....which is usually done Last...

 

Almost done.....By now I assume that you somehow came up with your own markings on the speaker wires going to the car that I extended (if you use this DIY) So you know what is Front speakers and Rear ..right and left ...etc...

Well I did mark them...
So I connect the rear (side panel speakers) and front speaker + / - wires to the rear and front, right and left + / - speaker output terminals on the 4 channel amp..

 

After that last step I had all my wires to all the BOSE speakers in the Car hooked up.....(front L+R, Side panel L+R)

I am not using my 6x9's (and will be doing another post full of my usual pics one how to take them out)

But I just need to hook up my speaker wires that will goto my Bass tube .....

Now this connection is called a "bridged" connection
What it does is takes all the amps power and focuses it on one speaker output....

Simply put: If your 2 channel amp is bridgable
it will say something like (200 watts 100 X 2 or 200 X 1)
what that means is it will send 100 watts to the left speaker and 100watts to the right speaker for a total max power output of 200watts

OR you can "bridge" it and get All 200watts to goto one speaker by hooking up the + of the right side and the - of the left side to your subwoofers + / - inputs...

and in the pic you will see that is what I hooked up....

Now I used 10AWG wire to goto my sub as a lot of power will be pumping to it so thicker speaker wire is best for subs.

I screwed them to the amps bridge set up speaker terminals then put red wire loom around them to again avoid the bare wire look..

I didnt HAVE to use 10AWG but its what I had...but I wouldnt go lower than 12AWG

And guys please dont SUPER tech that statement with all kinds of different AWG ratings you sould use because point blank ...it will work with 16 AWG hooked up to it (it aint the best but its not like it wont have sound coming thru it) no offence.

SO for those who dont know just use a thicker wire for ya subs

 

Now I just went to my battery...hooked up my 4AWG to the + of the battery.

Then checked to see the Voltage at the Cap (it has a digital read out) and it was 12.7 Volts (which is good)

Then I turned the Car on , checked the voltage at the Cap again and it went up to 14.2 Volts (which is Good)
(so it really doesnt matter if you hook it to the Distribution block with 8AWG or before the Distribution block to the 4AWG...Point is: If there is a difference at all, its so Small , it may as well be no difference...but like i say some things are to each, his own......)

Then I Hooked up my sub and turned on the radio....and every thing worked fine!...sounded good but needed that tweaking.

I just had to screw down the AMPs, Neaten up the wires with some wire ties and black wire loom,

Adjust the volume gains on the 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers
and volume gain on the 2 chan amp for Sub volume....adjust my EQ settings and LP frequencies and volume of Subwoofer.
Basically do sound adjustments

My opinion: It sounds MUCH Better The Bose speakers are not bad I must say...they handle pretty well, The EQ helped with the Sh**ty highs and now the Bass is really KICKIN....and I'm a Hip Hop Fan so you know I tested the Bass response...with some serious SH**.
The Bose Radio has some weird settings frequency wise on its "treble" adjustment they must have picked a really high frequency as the treble adjustment...ANYWAYS Its much much better NOT GREAT but DEFINATELY BEATS THE BOSE AMP + 6x9 thing.
I am going to change the Capacitors to the Bose tweets to a 10uF Cap to drop the Xover frequency down like I read in another post...and see if that helps....LIKE I said IMO the speakers arent bad at all.......but if the Cap swap doesn't take it were I really want it .....I will install new door and panel speakers...Which ones I dont know yet......

AND yes if i do I'll be posting my DIY on that also

NOTHING BEATS A PIC!!!!!!

like I said its not the only way to do this....but I'm just trying to help out those that dont know, cause I hated coming on here and not being able to see what people were talking about.
Or just not knowing.....and if there is anything that I missed or did literally incorrect (i dont see what, cause it works) but hey you never know. PLEASE POST ....

The fuse placement I am going to change because that is a Better way than the way I did it.....

EnJoy!.......again if this helps anyone, then my time was SO worth it!

 

And the view from inside the Trunk w/ seat up...

The Sub is not in these pics.

OH YEAH, THE RED WIRE LOOM FOR THE SPEAKER WIRES IS TO MATCH THE LASER RED COUPE BABY!!!!!

LOL...........

Hope it help fellas!

NOW MY LAST QUESTION IS TO THE REAL AUDIO EXPERT GURU'S

ALTERNATOR WHINE: IS THERE ANYWAY TO STOP IT?
When you use a LLC with the factory HU....
Inline RCA Ground Loop didnt work
Power and speakers are run separately

So whats up with that whine?...I mean it low but its there
THose that have and can solve this ...please post
And I mean WITHOUT CHANGING the HU
So please dont answer with something like "change to a radio with pre-amp outs".....cause Duh....LOL

anyways I'm gone....till my next DIY - "taking out the damn 6x9's ...let my Bass tube breathe"....LOL

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT FELLAS!