Suggest an amp and other questions
#1
Suggest an amp and other questions
This is my first audio install.
Need some clarification on amps and a suggestion for my 2nd amp.
2006 G35 coupe with bose/bluetooth using stock headunit.
Currently I have installed a sub using the pre-bose amp inputs and disconnected the rear-deck 6x9's and the rear floor speakers. The door speakers are in and running off of the OEM bose amp.
Sub set-up:
4 gauge power and ground wire from battery to a JL G1700 monoblock (250-350W RMS @ 1x4ohms, depending on voltage)
JL stealthbox contains a W1v2 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
According to the speaker's manual it says "Power Handling (continuous): 300W"
But on the next page it shows a chart that indicates anything above 225W RMS is "warranty void" area. Link to manual: http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...13610W1V24.PDF
Question #1: Am I sending my subwoofer too much power? What don't I get when I'm RTFM?
Front door speaker set-up:
JBL MS-62C
Per pair: 4ohms 160W Power handling (RMS), 320W peak
Question #2: What is an appropriate amp for this? I'm not sure if it exists, but if I can hook up my Samsung Galaxy note 2 to the amp for streaming pandora to it instead of tearing into the OEM head unit that would be great. I figure I'd have to route the subwoofer inputs to this new amp first and then connect the subwoofer pre-outs to the G1700 so it would work properly (or i'd have no bass). I don't have a music collection, and I use my phone for navigation so I have not been able to justify replacing the head unit, buying a trim kit, and most of all the labor.
Question #3: According to the G1700 manual, a 4 AWG power wire is fine for systems with total power of up to 700W, and 2 AWG for between 700W and 1400W. So i'm guessing I'll be fine with just a distribution block and another length of 4AWG? I'm uncertain if by "up to 700W" should be measured at the speakers/woofer or at the amps. I'm using a 100A fuse between the battery and the power wire but can safely move up to 125A if needed for an additional amp.
Thanks for your knowledge and help!
Need some clarification on amps and a suggestion for my 2nd amp.
2006 G35 coupe with bose/bluetooth using stock headunit.
Currently I have installed a sub using the pre-bose amp inputs and disconnected the rear-deck 6x9's and the rear floor speakers. The door speakers are in and running off of the OEM bose amp.
Sub set-up:
4 gauge power and ground wire from battery to a JL G1700 monoblock (250-350W RMS @ 1x4ohms, depending on voltage)
JL stealthbox contains a W1v2 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
According to the speaker's manual it says "Power Handling (continuous): 300W"
But on the next page it shows a chart that indicates anything above 225W RMS is "warranty void" area. Link to manual: http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...13610W1V24.PDF
Question #1: Am I sending my subwoofer too much power? What don't I get when I'm RTFM?
Front door speaker set-up:
JBL MS-62C
Per pair: 4ohms 160W Power handling (RMS), 320W peak
Question #2: What is an appropriate amp for this? I'm not sure if it exists, but if I can hook up my Samsung Galaxy note 2 to the amp for streaming pandora to it instead of tearing into the OEM head unit that would be great. I figure I'd have to route the subwoofer inputs to this new amp first and then connect the subwoofer pre-outs to the G1700 so it would work properly (or i'd have no bass). I don't have a music collection, and I use my phone for navigation so I have not been able to justify replacing the head unit, buying a trim kit, and most of all the labor.
Question #3: According to the G1700 manual, a 4 AWG power wire is fine for systems with total power of up to 700W, and 2 AWG for between 700W and 1400W. So i'm guessing I'll be fine with just a distribution block and another length of 4AWG? I'm uncertain if by "up to 700W" should be measured at the speakers/woofer or at the amps. I'm using a 100A fuse between the battery and the power wire but can safely move up to 125A if needed for an additional amp.
Thanks for your knowledge and help!
The following users liked this post:
jomamahama (06-17-2013)
#3
4gauge is fine for the two amps you're talking about. I have 0 gauge for my 1200 watt RMS system. If you want to use your galaxy tab you'll need a headphone out to RCA white/red. Run that to your amp on the speakers as input then run RCAs from the speaker amp to your sub amp and set the sub amp to filter all signals 80hz and above. This should work just fine. For the sub amp and 300 rms I'd have to look up the specs. The reason the manual says that is because they don't want to replace it however That JL could probably handle 500 rms if you wanted so you're fine. Got more questions just ask
The following users liked this post:
jomamahama (06-17-2013)
#4
#5
#7
I think i'll do the HU once I pick out all my sound deadening, and am ready to remove all panels, promise. Probably when it's colder outside.
Now back to what amp I should get for the fronts. Apparently I have good quality fronts that are just underpowered, but since lots of people wire in 5 sets of speakers they need a high watt amp. Guess I need a good quality low watt amp that spits out to 160 RMS or 320 peak? Probably something in the 800W (peak) or 600W (peak) systems.
Now back to what amp I should get for the fronts. Apparently I have good quality fronts that are just underpowered, but since lots of people wire in 5 sets of speakers they need a high watt amp. Guess I need a good quality low watt amp that spits out to 160 RMS or 320 peak? Probably something in the 800W (peak) or 600W (peak) systems.
Trending Topics
#8
Alpine doesn't go quite that low for peak but they do for RMS. if you want a smaller amp I would suggest Rockford or Kicker 2 channel amps. Pioneer would be ok too but you may not get the drive out of them you're looking for. Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6...sr=8-8&pi=SL75
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6...sr=8-8&pi=SL75
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thunderaan
Audio, Video & Electronics
9
07-22-2015 07:40 PM