Okay, So Im buttoning up everything for my build. Before I re install the interior I want to get my sound system wiring laid down. Now, I do have a show car. I like my audio. I currently have 2 1000w RE subs in the trunk. Previously I skimped on speakers, now im fully upgrading them. I only had 2 sets of 6 1/2 speakers and one set of 6x9. Now, Im trying to track down which setup and amps I want. Im thinking RE xxx speaker. Now where i Start running into issues is each speaker takes 300w. Then I will need another set of speakers for the rear deck. My questions are more will I need to run 3 different amps??? One to the subs, one to the 4 speakers in the cabin and one to the rear deck. Just looking for advice.

 

You're talking about just for the speakers, right?

For aesthetics and range of amp options in a showcar situation, I'd go with three amps. There's no reasonable options for an 1800w RMS 6-channel amp, but 600w RMS 2-channel amps are plentiful. You can pick up a trio of RE CTX1600.2's and keep brand integrity, which doesn't matter for audio quality, but may score you some points in the show.

If you're going for audio quality as well as the looks though, you'll need a dedicated sound processor, like the JBL MS-8 to compensate for the delay and differing frequency response from the varying speakers, plus properly installed, they look good for a show too.

 

None of the speakers will actually be seen as well. I'm using all stock areas. I just don't know if I should get the re xxx speakers or going down a little and calling it good. I think I will stick with re because they make quality products. Maybe I'll shoot them an e mail and see if they could do a part sponsorship. I'll gladly throw on a sticker for them. I just struggle when it comes to wattage and amp numbers. Do you think I should run a 600.2 amp to the speakers? They take like a pop.

 

You always want headroom in your amp vs. speakers, otherwise the amp is going to be working near capacity instead of in its optimal sound quality range.

So long as you don't turn the gain up too high such that you're going to physically damage the speakers/subs from over-excursion you should be good.

 

K treat me like an idiot. What to you mean on headroom.

 

Cause they don't make a 1200x4 amp. So is what I need a 600x4 amp or a 300x4 amp does that mean the output is 300 do all 4.

 

It's having more watts available on your amp than your speakers use.

It's like instead of using a guy who maxes out at 100lbs lifting 100lb all day long, you get a guy who can lift 150lbs to carry your 100lb load. When then amp isn't at its max output all the time, it's going to run cooler and with less distortion - safer for your speakers/subs, better for sound quality and the life of the amp.

Most manufacturers do ###xC where ### is the watts, the x (or period, or - or whatever) as a separator and C for the channels. Some list the peak watts (basically worthless measurement) for the ### instead of the RMS (constant power output).

So for most manufacturers, 600x4 or 600.4 is 600 watts with four output channels, but whether it's RMS or peak isn't consistent.

 

K got ya makes sense now. I will have to find a good large multi channel amp.

 

So I dug a little deeper, and their PEAK is 300 watts, RMS is at 150. This makes it a little easier for me haha. I will have to see if they get back to me in sponsorship situation. I surely hope they do.

 

The other thing you need to consider is what is supplying power to the amps and how much current the amps pull. If your stock alternator only outputs 80 amps and your vehicle is occupying half of that under normal driving conditions with lights on and all then that leaves you with 40a to power your amps, and clearly that is not enough for what you're looking to do.

Think of current as water and the amp as a bucket and your wiring is the hose. The more water to put into the bucket, the bigger the hose needs to be and the larger the water supply needs to be.

If you put two 1000w(~75a each) amps and a 600w(~45a) amp on a stock alternator, even adding batteries will eventually fry that alternator and a capacitor is not going to fix your lights dimming, it does not add power to your system so don't waste your money.

Just my .02

 

Peak watts. Using them to measure sound output is like using Sasquatch sightings to measure their population. Yes, RMS according to CEA 2006 standards isn't perfect, but it's the best we got.

 

Agreed on the rms. Never look at peak. That just means they will blow if you run that much power to them for extended periods of time. No 6x9s or smaller on earth can handle 300 real watts. I think the highest I've ever seen was around 130 watts

 

I think the Focal Utopia's are around 150-160ish, but that's also over $4,000 for a set of 2way components so...

 

Okay so I did end up buying the RE XXX Speakers which Amp should I run??? Any suggestions on an amp. 2 channel or 4... Also They are HUGE. I was planning on mounting them in the door, which I think they will fit into okay, and the B piller. Which I think they are going to be to deep for..... Should I mount them on the rear deck. I only have the 4 speakers. Help please...

 

Well how big are they? Post up the max power and rms rating!