V1 Hardwire... Done!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Chicago, Illinois
V1 Hardwire... Done!
Very easy. Hardest part was seeing what I had done. I need to install better lighting in my garage. It took 30 minutes and from the outside the V1 is nearly invisable
I hardwired mine similar to G35ZX's, for power, I connected the splie to the purple/white wire going to to sunroof motor. it's a key on power source so after you turn off the key and open a door, it shuts off.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Oh man. Now you did it, you are making me cry! Whimper, whimper...LOL
I used the wires from the mirror. There are three:
Black - ground
Black w/red - hot power
Black w/pink - switched power
The 2005 may be different, because I have read that the w/red is the switched. I tried this first and it is actually hot. I cut the suppled straight cord to a desired length (actually too long) and used the green for ground and red for the switched.
Directions:
Remove the plug from the mirrors back. Position mirror out of the way. Remove the plastic covers that run from the headliner to the mirrors base (two pieces that pull straight down for the top piece and straight up for the bottom piece). Slit the sheathing around the wires underneath the plastic pieces exposing the three wires. This will hide the splicing under the plastic pieces. Carefully cut some insulation from the desired wires. Attach the two wires from the V1 supplied straight cord or any telephone cord (rj11 I think) and wrap with tape to secure them after soldering. Reinstall the plastic pieces, Reinsert the mirrors plug, connect the V1 cord to the V1 port and speed, err test...
I used the wires from the mirror. There are three:
Black - ground
Black w/red - hot power
Black w/pink - switched power
The 2005 may be different, because I have read that the w/red is the switched. I tried this first and it is actually hot. I cut the suppled straight cord to a desired length (actually too long) and used the green for ground and red for the switched.
Directions:
Remove the plug from the mirrors back. Position mirror out of the way. Remove the plastic covers that run from the headliner to the mirrors base (two pieces that pull straight down for the top piece and straight up for the bottom piece). Slit the sheathing around the wires underneath the plastic pieces exposing the three wires. This will hide the splicing under the plastic pieces. Carefully cut some insulation from the desired wires. Attach the two wires from the V1 supplied straight cord or any telephone cord (rj11 I think) and wrap with tape to secure them after soldering. Reinstall the plastic pieces, Reinsert the mirrors plug, connect the V1 cord to the V1 port and speed, err test...
judging from the size of the wire that is used for the mirror, I really don't think it was designed to have any other electronics running off of its supply. try using something a little bigger. there is plenty to choose from underneath the drivers dash.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Everything is running fine. The draw for the V1 must be very little due to it using Telephone cord. Members at my350z.com have been doing this for quite some time, with no problems.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Chicago, Illinois
I have had the detecter in the same location for this sedan and my previous coupe for nearly 60 thousand miles. It points directly parallel to the ground straight ahead. Works like a champ and has protected me extremely wear. No contact with the mirror either. I have an idea. If you have a V1, mount it in this location and then give feedback.
Originally Posted by myG35ZX
Very easy. Hardest part was seeing what I had done. I need to install better lighting in my garage. It took 30 minutes and from the outside the V1 is nearly invisable
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
I have tried the V1 in several locations and I could not notice any degradation in signal reception. I can still "sense" a po po far before I can see it. An advantage of this is is that from the outside, the V1 can not (mostly anyway) be seen.



