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If I had NATs disabled when I did my UPRev tune, do I need the immobilizer bypass? I would think not but not sure if it does something else in this install other than fool the NATS. Trying to keep the install as simple as possible and don't want to clutter things up with boxes that I don't need.
The smart entry and nats is separate. Nats security is on all G35's and has a chip in the ECU,BCM and one in the key. No match an any of them and no start. Nats can be removed or bypassed using Uprev tuner or a remote starter security bypass like the EVO all. The smart entry is a near field transmitter remote FOB that disables your Nats when in close proximity and also lets you start the car without keys. This is system is an option and you can tell if you car has this by the ignition where you insert the key is not flat and sticks out like a key so you can start the car and the drivers door has a push button to unlock the doors. The only way I know to get a smart entry remote if you loose one is to go to the dealer and have one programmed by the dealer with consult system. I have smart entry on my 05' and wish that it didn't, the car didn't come with a remote so it's useless and another bad thing is that it drains the battery twice as fast as my 04' without the smart entry.
@ saaif - Great write up! I'm going to use this very soon and it saved me tons of time tracing it all down myself. Great job and thanks!
Hate to bring back an ancient thread but since this thing pops up #1 when searching "G35 remote start install" on google, I figure people might find this info pertinent.
I followed this guide, didn't connect any of the BCM or horn/parking light wires because no real need - the car honks even without the honk wire - and it's working fine!
I'm using a RS4-G5 which was cheaper and is only 1-way. I got the EVO-all off ebay for cheaper than the Fortin website.
However, I had to buy the Fortin flash tool. In 2018 there was a firmware update that made it necessary to use the Software / Decryptor on Infinity / Nissan cars. Before that it wasn't needed. So if you're unsure which firmware your evo-all will come with, you might want to get the flash tool or have someone flash a version prior to 6.72.33...
The easiest way I have found to test the running lights is this gather all suspected wires using a voltage meter or a cheap light tester prob each wire anything that already has power we know that isnt what we need. Then turn on the headlights without starting the car or turning the car to accessory. Any wire that is now energized is the one you are looking for.
Originally Posted by Saaif88
Here is how to hook up the parking lights (OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED):
This was a complete pain in the ***. COMPLETE PAIN IN THE ***. The wire for the parking lights is RED with a BLUE stripe. This would have been fine, but there are 3 or 4 wires in this loom with the EXACT SAME COLOUR. Once of them is some sort of ignition wire, one of them makes the car go crazy, one of them does something else, and one of them is the actual parking light wire. I don’t know how to test this, I simply went through them and I managed to find it. You might get lucky and find it on your first go, but if not, go through the loom and try to find it again. Best of luck.
Sadly I was so frustrated that I didn’t get a picture of me splicing, soldering and taping this wire, but rest assured, it does work, I just wish there was a better way to identify it. If anyone knows of a way, let me know.
