Sorry g8tor20 your post got lost in all the posting. $1500 depends on if you buy yourself or have a shop install it. I bought all my JL stuff off ebay. It's not used but from americanaudio a.k.a indoaudio. It's all "buyme" now new JL stuff so you don't have to play the auction game. Just search ebay. If you installing yourself you might as well buy off the internet because JL Audio will only honor a warrantee if it's installed by a JL Audio dealer.

Current system
I bought Focal K2P (from local shop DFW)- $600
Eclipse 8443 Head Unit (local shop)- $550ish
JL 300/2 (Ebay) - $300

Just ordered

JL AUDIO 300/4 SLASH SERIES 4 Channel Amplifier NEW 04 1 $349.00 USD
JL Audio 500/1 Monoblock CLASS D AMP NEW 2004 MODEL HOT 1 $389.00
5757738997 JL Audio 10W6v2 10" Subwoofer NEW 2004 NIB W6v2 W6 HOT 1 $259.00

Shipping $84

Also add $100ish for Monstor cables, power, Connects, etc

I will build my own subbox according to JL specs from 3/4 Medium density fiberboard.

This will give you an idea of cost. If you buy locally you will pay 30%ish more plus pay for installation, most Head unit has basic installation for free (Bose replacement on the Infiniti is not a basic installation).

If you have a coupe I have heard the stock bose is not that bad and it is already setup to accept aftermarket amps. It's one of the easier cars to upgrade. It's the amp and speakers that really suck (mostly amp) so you could go components up front, amp and add on as you go. My system started with Phase I- Eclipse Head unit,, Focal coaxial up front Infinty coaxials in back. Phase II - Focal K2P's up front, JL 300/2 power K2P's used head unit for rear fill. Phase III - replace Infinty coxial with Focal coaxial in back, Add JL 300/4 for bi amp componets and rear fill, use 2X75 (turned way down) to power the tweeters, move JL 300/2 to just power front woofers only. Use the other 2X75 for rear fill. Add sub JL 500/1 amp and 10" W6V2 sub in custom box. Phase IV - Get a double din conversion parts, get a 4080 subbox and move everything over to G35 Coupe.
So don't worry about everything upfront, I would think keep Bose add componets upfront, and either JL 300/2 or 450/4 (if you want rear fill) then add a sub later. Or depending on your wants you could use less expensive components Infinity or Polk and JL 300/2 and a sub with a JL 250/1 amp W6V2 or W3 sub. 250/1 should really be enough for a balanced system and still have awesome system way better than stock.

Zguy

 

I'm running the following equipment:
*Premier 860MP HU
*ArcAudio 4150 XXK
*ArcAudio 1500 XXK
*AudioControl DQS w/ DDC
*Focal K2P 165
*Focal Polyglass 169
*JLAudio 12W6v2 in a sealed enclosure
*2 1fd Stinger Caps with blue LED voltage read out
*Stinger SP1000 Battery
*87.5sf of Stinger Roadkill Expert and Overkill Foam

If I didn't have my Focals, I'd probably be running MBQuart as well. I really like their sound.

***Yea, sorry about that. If you're willing to do the labor, you can get a pretty slammin system put together for 2000-2500. If you're not willing to do the labor, you could get REALLY expensive on a G35 install. Fortunately we have DYIs for just about anything!

 

Did my own install

Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4 amp
Elemental Designs Nine.2 amp (sub)
Elemental Designs 13Ov2 (sub)
Drewer's custom sub box
Focal Polyglass comps in doors
Audiocontrol EQQ 12 band per side EQ

I don't agree that you can't tune with the existing HU. I have done a great job so far. Takes time and patience though...a lot of time, and many many lrepeated listens to cds.

I was reading on the Car Soundand Performance forum that the BOSE headunits do not have eq in them. The eq is done in the amp. (This is also what tech support at BOSE told me). There is a JL Audio engineer (Manville Smith) who was a major participant in the thread, and agreed that the EQ is in the amp, not the head. The thread was about the upcoming JL Cleansweep LOC/DSP.

link: http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_...1;t=023201;p=0

 

Cram, did you notice the SVC still works? I am not completely comfy on the a flat response on the BOSE, waiting for the cleansweep I used a Venn4 LOC, PG Reactor, PG Elites 6.5 f+r, 10" Jll10w6 4080 box EQ215 and have a CUBE as a toy. still a little harsh at high volumes. I have some Focal k2 (had to use the PG Xover)I have put in just to test which are brighter and more effeciant

Mark

 

Hey all...

I have read the entire thread and all good advice.

After shopping around and doing some reading here I am going to ditch Tweeter. Their prices are insane. I could save a thousand bucks just buying the equipment online.... Not to mention I haven't heard real good things about the quality of their installs. I got a couple of responses from some people hear and am going to check out an installer Keith recommended and Rudy's shop.

I wouldn't mind taking this thread a different direction for a bit...

I want to keep the stock HU in the 05' for now mainly because it does look good.

I would also like to keep the install capped at about $2700.00. I know that isn't much cash but I am in phase I of this car. When I have more money and a better vision of what I want to do with the car I plan on getting a crazy system along with many other upgrades.

What would be the best setup to increase the sound quality? I listen to alot of metal and hip hop so I want the system to be able to handle just about any music I throw in the CD player.

Oh... by the way I have two JL Audio 12w1's and a RF 500a2 amp that are all in killer condition... Do you think I could work those into the install without losing my entire trunk space?

 

IMHO the bigest bang would be a sub 1st. Buy the best you will need now so not to do it twice. I considered stealth appearence,SQ, weight (it is a sports car )trunk size and my demands for it,spare tire or not, electrical draw on stock system. I have 4080's box. Will 1 sub be enough for you? it is light (fiberglass), effeciant use of space. But won't hold a 12, no match to the other side. If you want 2 subs boxes should be a close as possible match, I didn't research 2 so I can't make any suggestions here.

I would also plan as much as possible a final system and do that in phases rather here is xxx for a sub set up I'll worry about the rest later

Mark

 

Well to be honest, Bose doesn't know their butt from a hole in the ground. The deck isn't Bose anyways... It's Clarion made for Bose. Tell you what: hook up your system before the stock amp (so you don't get an of the stock amp's eq). Get a testing CD and borrow a full spectrum analyzer for an hour or so. Then come back and tell me that the stock HU has anything but crap comming from it. I didn't say you couldn't equalize it to sound OK. I said you couldn't make it sound RIGHT. If you don't know what's wrong, then it might sound pretty good to you, and that's fine. To me, it sounds absolutely horrific. There are freq boosted so high or cut so much that + or - 12 db just won't bring you what you need to properly equalize the sound. The only way you're going to get a truely clean and flat signal is to have a good after market deck. If the Clean Sweep can manage to balence the crap comming from the stock HU, GREAT! Once it's on the market you guys will have to let me know how it does (FSA before and after). Till then, true audiophile will never be content with the stock HU. For those who aren't, I applaude you. You guys can spend a lot less money on your system to achieve what you want. There is certainly nothing wrong with that. =)

 

ZombieHunter, here's what I did to maximize trunk space:









What's great is I can still access my spare tire with ease.

 

I was told by someone in the business that Nak built it for Clarion, can not deny or confirm????

Mark

 

I think a $2700 is pretty good. if you add up all my components (I forgot the rear focal coaxials $219)

Focal K2P $600.00
Eclipse 8443 $550.00
Focal Coaxials $209.00
JL 300/2 $300.00
JL 300/4 $349.00
JL 500/1 $389.00
JL 10W6V2 $259.00
Shipping $84.00
Wires $100.00
Total $2,840.00

If you don't want rear fill or biamp to the components you dump the 300/4 and coaxials and go with a JL 250/1 in a ported box. I am going with the 500/1 sub will be in a sealed and takes a bit more power.

Focal K2P $600.00
Eclipse 8443 $550.00
JL 300/2 $300.00
JL 250/1 $265.00
JL 10W6V2 $259.00
Shipping $84.00
Wires $100.00
Total $2,158.00

add installation you should be right right around $2700. If your worried about space however the custom subbox will be expensive the 4080 box is $299. BTW - I'm not pushing Focal or JL there are many great audio products just sharing my experience.

 

If you live in So cal. then go to Audio Advice in La Cresenta, CA. The owner/installer's name is Devin and he is one of the best installers around imo. Yes, he did do my system, but I am not making that claim simply from that fact. He pays attention to detail and won't just install it to "look good" but will make it sound excellent. The install is always the most important part of a system upgrade.

Since he has worked on my car, along with a few 350z's and other G35's, he will be able to help you design a system with your budget. I suggest going to his shop and talking to him or his wife Melanie about your situation and see what they come up with.

Check out my website to see pics of my install. If you have any questions, technical or general, then PM me and I would be happy to discuss it with you more specifically. He didn't necessarily help me plan my system, but he did install it at a very reasonable price and he's a great guy as well.

Here are my tips on the matter:

-Avoid rear fill: In the coupe it is VERY unnecessary to have rear fill. The rear passangers can still hear the music with just a front sound stage. Rear fill will mess up your imaging/soundstaging up front. Plus, the money spent to add rear fill can be used elsewhere to better another part of your system. If you had a sedan, I would say differently, but in the coupe, it is not needed.

-Your quote from tweeter seems too high, but without model numbers, it's hard to say. Unless the compontents used in that system were fairly high-end, I dont see it being a good deal. My system was slightly more than what you were quoted even with my install, so I would say you need another opinion. Tweeter is not the place to go if you want to save money though. They are rather expensive.

-You can keep the stock head unit if you want to. JL's cleansweep appears to be a good option, but it isn't out yet. When it is out, I've heard the price approaching $500 for the unit. Not sure if that will be true, but if it is, then it is not worth it in my opinion. A simple LOC would make more sense value wise unless you genuinely thought the JL as worth over $400 more for its slight performance benefits. Personally, that's $400 i would spend on better speakers, amps, or even sound deadening. A new headunit will improve your performance drastically, but you would have to determine if that extra cost is worth it to you.

-Some brands to consider for your front soundstage would be Image Dynamics, CDT, MB Quart (their higher lines if possible: Premium/QSD), Rainbow Audio (if you can find them), Eclipse. Zapco is releasing new comps soon which should be amazing, but details are not very specific right now.

-For your subs, look into Adire Audio Koda subs (www.adireaudio.com), Elemental Designs O series (www.edesignaudio.com), JL w6v2 or W7 (pricey subs, but the w6v2 is a better value considering it sounds very close, if not better, than the W7 when installed in the right enclosure), Image Dynamics IDMAX (if you have the room for one, go for it because it's a great sub), and possibly the Oz Audio Matrix Elite subs (sound very much like the IDMAX's, but require less air space and cost less).

-For your amps, check out Eclipse, JL Audio, Zapco, TRU Technology, and if you want to try some different brands than the norm, althought a bit pricey, then look into Sinfoni, Audison, Brax, and Genesis (if you can find it here in the US).

Sorry for this novel I just wrote. Hopefully it helps you as well as others out a bit. If you have questions, PM me and I would be happy to go into even more detail with you. Check my website for pics as well. It'll give you an idea of Devin's workmanship and might also give you ideas for your setup. Thanks!

Shaam

 

Yes, all features still work.

 

Okay so BOSE doesn't know anything.
What about JL Audio? Are they daft too??
I think he guy from JL Audio did the test you suggested, and concluded that there's no eQ i the head...I'll go by JL since they'd have a vested interest (and financial one) in concluding in a public forum of car audio enthusiasts that there WAS EQ in the head, yet failed to do so. YMMV. And test results may vary, too. I don't feel a need to replicate the test. Read the thread, it was interesting.

 

Just 4 fun and as easy as it is to do so in my setup, I can take a portable CD player connect the output to my main input to run the fronts and subs and can compare the difference to the hu w/a LOC. I will do this w/o EQ, just amps and Xovers. In the past the CD has a fuller sound. I may be able to RTA tomorrow if my friend brings his over. I will post if he does.

Mark

 

cool. don't forget to post the results.