Installing a sub/amp in my 2011 G37 IPL (Obviously a coupe -- but for those that might answer with wiring for the sedan, as that appears different on nearly all year models).
[I've wired in sub/amp/loc/etc many times before in many different cars -- but never one with a Bose amp]

So I've got the power run to my capacitor, a clean ground run to it as well. Power running from the cap to the amp. Another clean ground for the amp. A remote wire also running from the Bose to the amp. A LOC tied into the wires listed on the FSM for the Bose for this model car. (I've actually tried two different LOCs as one of mine I knew had issues and couldn't remember which it was). (Also tried a pair of stripped RCA cables tied directly into the same wires tapped with no different result.









Good power on cap. Remote wire not turning on amp. (Have tested two different amps to eliminate any possibility of it being the amp). Temporarily bridged the remote and power on the amp to test and confirm (both) amp(s) turn on, they do.

Even with either amp powered on, no audio output via the amp to the sub.

Have tested with a 3.5mm to RCA cable connected from my phone to the amp to ensure a signal was making it from either amp to the sub. Both amps wired in this manner are working fine.

I have searched the web and this forum, and although I have found several posts on installing an amp to the Bose amp, generally it was the wrong year model, or a sedan, or other various reasons that it doesn't match up with my situation.

I hope someone can please guide me in the right direction as to what could be wrong. I hope I'm just tapping into the incorrect wires (despite this coming directly from the Factory Service Manual itself). (Or perhaps I should be using the input wires to the Bose rather than the output wires. But I figured I'd get something in the way of output either doing it before the Bose or after the Bose.)

Thanks!!!

 

Not an expert but it's interesting that the "woofer amp on signal" is only 10v and not 12. Could that be the reason your new amp won't wake up?

Also, I think the source you want is the "woofer amp input" audio signal, no? I assume that would be like a line-level signal which already has the low-pass audio filter to drive the sub and would correctly follow the volume changes of the head unit. Looks like pins 16 (+ signal) and 17 (- signal) at the main Bose amp or pins 8 (+ signal) and 9 (- signal) at the Bose woofer amp. Those wires should be light blue (+) and purple (-) if I'm looking at the right book...

Check your FSM for the listing just above the first pic you attached and you should see pins 16(+) &17(-) as "Sound Signal Rear Woofer". I think that's the audio you want.

 

Had honestly overlooked this. Yes, more likely than not the culprit. So where to grab 12v for the remote wire I wonder (and also wonder why the Bose only uses 10v to turn on)???


Thanks, will definitely try this within the next few days and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for your help thus far... Especially as I completely overlooked the 10v/12v issue!

 

If that 10v thing turns out to be that part of the problem, there's a 12v "on" signal sent to an antenna amp somewhere back there - maybe back left pillar? But you'd want to test that to see that it's always powered when the amps are on and not just when in "radio" mode.

Or you could run yourself a custom "power on" line to the sub amp and hide a switch in some handy location.

 

Thanks for suggesting to try pins 16 & 17. This worked to send audio into the amp and out to the sub. (Having never used a factory amp as a source for amp audio signal I was definitely tapping into the incorrect wires for sub audio).

Now on to the 12v - vs - 10v issue. This is indeed the reason my amp will not switch on using the remote wire tapped into pin 22. I've looked through the FSM and see where the antenna amp is in the rear left pillar, but have been unable to determine it exact location within the vehicle. So I have simple put a switch inline on a bridge between the power and remote input on the amp. This works fine for the moment. I will possibly tap into another "switched" source so I dont have to have a kill switch to the amp.

But, for the time being, this is a workable fix. So in that regards, I thank you. My Skar Audio SDR-1X8D2 (sub) and Skar Audio RP-350.1D (amp) are now working flawlessly. Cant wait to run my sound meter in the car to see the dB levels (once I've tuned the system a bit more). So, again, thanks!

 

Update:

Ended up spending today taking out my center console and running a wire off of the 12v accessory outlet near the radio back to the amp. It is a switched 12v source.

Since I had the console removed I also removed the dummy switch cover between the heated seat *****, and installed my remote bass control there. (At some later point I am going to remove the writing from the surface so it looks cleaner. But it's 101 outside, so not today!)

 

Nice! Some pray paint or vinyl wrap should do the trick.

 

Nice one!