There are NONE....must have PAC AAI NIS to create the AUX RCA inputs

 

Once you have that^, You will have a SAT1 and SAT2 (really AUX 1 and AUX 2) inputs since the PAC unit comes with 2 pairs of inputs (4, 2 right 2 left) Look into it as this is perfect for you.

 

its not that different... push the leather boot down towards the ground, holding the chrome piece, then slip the paperclip fastener towards the front of the car, make sure it doesnt pop off and slip out of your grip. then the **** slips up towards the roof, then you can pull the aluminum piece up and out...

NOTE: when putting it back together, make sure to look under the aluminum piece to align the **** into the right plastic piece, youll know what im talking about when u look at it! its a guide for the shifter...

 

Anyone in the maryland area thats done this?

 

I just received the DD kit from Yoshi-taka san yesterday. I'm not really ready to do the install (I still have to choose the new HU and buy it) but I was hoping to go ahead and get the kit as ready as possible in the meantime. I know my way around soldering irons and surface-mount parts, so I should have no problem with that part of it, but need part numbers and/or values for the LED, resistor and switch. I can probably wing it for the resistor and LED, but if anyone has a part number and manufacturer for the switch itself, I would be very grateful.

Alternatively, if someone has a tight closeup of the "dual" button of the stock circuit board, that would help as well.

Thanks!

 

just for your knowledge I did the DD install this week. The soldering is a bitch. What you need to do is just solder off (remove) a button from the stock A/C board as well as one of the LEDs. Make sure it is one of the LEDs with a little green dot in the bottom right hand corner. Then you need to solder off one of the resistors labled "242". Then you need to solder on the button, led, and resistor onto the new A/C controller where the Dual button goes.

You must use an EXTEMELY fine tip soldering iron to do this work. It is tedious, but definitely possibly and I did not have any prior soldering experience.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, KingJames, and I imagine you're right that for a novice the desoldering and resoldering of the parts is a real pain. I think, though, that having a fine-tip iron is less of a necessity than using the proper tools. For desoldering, I suggest using solder wick like this one: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...SWK&type=store. This will "wick" up the solder and make it easier to remove the part. The most important bit is to not get the part so hot that you damage either the part itself or the circuit board. Often a wide-tip iron is easier to manage on a really small surface-mount part than a fine-tip one, since it heats up the area more quickly and on a really small part (like the LED or the resistor) you can heat both ends at the same time. A tip like this: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...410&type=store, if your iron can handle it.

As far as resoldering the parts, the easiest way to go about it is to use a tiny amount of solder paste flux on each solder pad (where you actually apply the solder). I've been using this one: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...-44&type=store. You want just a tiny bit, enough to just cover the pad itself. It's sticky enough to hold the part while you apply solder, and as you solder the joint the paste melts and both cleans the contact and "wets" it so that the solder wicks into the joint to form a solid bond with the copper. Makes life a lot easier. If you want, afterward you can use a q-tip or nylon brush with a little isopropyl alcohol to clean the excess flux but this isn't usually necessary.

You can also smear just a little bit of the paste on the solder wick before you use it; this will help it wick up the solder if it doesn't work very well by itself. Just don't use too much.

The solder I use is something like this: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...564&type=store (although you can find smaller rolls). The fine stuff is a lot easier to use than the regular thick solder you can usually find at an auto supply place.

By the way, I don't have any connection to All Electronics except as a satisfied customer. They have a good selection of the basic stuff like this and their prices are better than the larger supply houses. Just don't use Radio Shack, their prices are too high and their quality is inferior.

I hope this helps those who are relative novices at soldering. Actually, the best thing you can have is a pair of steady hands. Unfortunately mine just aren't. I guess I'll never be a surgeon.

 

Well it certainly sounds like you will have no problem. This was the first time I ever used a soldering iron so you once you finally see the circuit board with the resistor and led you can imagine the pain it was for me. I mean the resistor and LED are microscopic.

Everything works perfectly though and I must say that I even impressed my self.

Sounds like you will have no problem. Good luck.

 

(bump for klwoods)