Dynamat on doors and new components up front!
#1
Dynamat on doors and new components up front!
Just finished putting lots of dynamat xtreme on the front doors of my coupe, as well as mounting my Polk/MOMO 6.5 MMC-650 components up front.
Wow! Big difference! The speakers are so much better than the stock bose that it is incredible, and the dynamat really cuts down on the road noise. Plus, I enjoy tinkering on my car, so all in all, good money and time spent.
Anyways, even if you stick with the stock system, I really recommend putting dynamat (or some other noise killer) on the doors and in the trunk, and whereever else you can.
Dave
Wow! Big difference! The speakers are so much better than the stock bose that it is incredible, and the dynamat really cuts down on the road noise. Plus, I enjoy tinkering on my car, so all in all, good money and time spent.
Anyways, even if you stick with the stock system, I really recommend putting dynamat (or some other noise killer) on the doors and in the trunk, and whereever else you can.
Dave
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#8
I have photos, but they are in my camera, which is in Hawaii, while I am currently in California on business trip. Back in a week.
I dynamatted both the outer skin, and the inner sheet. You really need to do both, and it is not that hard to put the door back together. The noise difference is worth it.
Oh, and the components will work with the Bose amp, no problem. Just make sure you get the wire that is before the 'crossover' in the door, rather than the wire that goes to the tweeter or the woofer. The original crossover looks like a small white plastic thing, about the size of two quarters. It probably only has a resistor or a small cap in there to split the frequiencies. I set it up first with the bose amp to make sure I had every thing wired correctly, and then I switched over to my amp. So, the Bose amp does work. Not as well as my JL Audio 300/4 of course...
Dave
I dynamatted both the outer skin, and the inner sheet. You really need to do both, and it is not that hard to put the door back together. The noise difference is worth it.
Oh, and the components will work with the Bose amp, no problem. Just make sure you get the wire that is before the 'crossover' in the door, rather than the wire that goes to the tweeter or the woofer. The original crossover looks like a small white plastic thing, about the size of two quarters. It probably only has a resistor or a small cap in there to split the frequiencies. I set it up first with the bose amp to make sure I had every thing wired correctly, and then I switched over to my amp. So, the Bose amp does work. Not as well as my JL Audio 300/4 of course...
Dave
#9
Originally Posted by dennis_said
Yeah, my friend has some dynamat he ended up not using, I am curious about trying this... will it improve the sound quality of the bose system?
Not really improve the Bose system, but it will certainly cut down on road noise, and will help the bass of the bose, at least.
Dave
#10
Originally Posted by caelric
I have photos, but they are in my camera, which is in Hawaii, while I am currently in California on business trip. Back in a week.
I dynamatted both the outer skin, and the inner sheet. You really need to do both, and it is not that hard to put the door back together. The noise difference is worth it.
Oh, and the components will work with the Bose amp, no problem. Just make sure you get the wire that is before the 'crossover' in the door, rather than the wire that goes to the tweeter or the woofer. The original crossover looks like a small white plastic thing, about the size of two quarters. It probably only has a resistor or a small cap in there to split the frequiencies. I set it up first with the bose amp to make sure I had every thing wired correctly, and then I switched over to my amp. So, the Bose amp does work. Not as well as my JL Audio 300/4 of course...
Dave
I dynamatted both the outer skin, and the inner sheet. You really need to do both, and it is not that hard to put the door back together. The noise difference is worth it.
Oh, and the components will work with the Bose amp, no problem. Just make sure you get the wire that is before the 'crossover' in the door, rather than the wire that goes to the tweeter or the woofer. The original crossover looks like a small white plastic thing, about the size of two quarters. It probably only has a resistor or a small cap in there to split the frequiencies. I set it up first with the bose amp to make sure I had every thing wired correctly, and then I switched over to my amp. So, the Bose amp does work. Not as well as my JL Audio 300/4 of course...
Dave
#11
Yes, I am sure about the crossover. The speaker wires coming into the door go into the small crossover first, and if you only use the wires after thta that go into the woofer, you will be losing some of the high frequencies.
I don't have more instructions for the door panel, I just use the service manual and figure things out on my own. It's pretty easy, though, just start removing bolts until it comes off...
Dave
I don't have more instructions for the door panel, I just use the service manual and figure things out on my own. It's pretty easy, though, just start removing bolts until it comes off...
Dave
#12
Originally Posted by caelric
Yes, I am sure about the crossover. The speaker wires coming into the door go into the small crossover first, and if you only use the wires after thta that go into the woofer, you will be losing some of the high frequencies.
I don't have more instructions for the door panel, I just use the service manual and figure things out on my own. It's pretty easy, though, just start removing bolts until it comes off...
Dave
I don't have more instructions for the door panel, I just use the service manual and figure things out on my own. It's pretty easy, though, just start removing bolts until it comes off...
Dave
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Originally Posted by caelric
I set it up first with the bose amp to make sure I had every thing wired correctly, and then I switched over to my amp. So, the Bose amp does work. Not as well as my JL Audio 300/4 of course...
Dave
Dave
#14
Well, I cut the wires coming from the Bose amp, hooked them into a LOC (from NavOne), ran the RCA's from the NavOne to the amps, then for the subwoofer, I ran my own speaker wire. For the components, I ran wire from the amp to the original speaker wire (that I had earlier cut) and back into that speaker wire. In the door, I found the wire coming in (original wire) and ran that into the crossover of my components. When I get back home, I will attempt to post some pics.
Dave
Dave
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