I just recently purchased the 4080 subwoofer box with the jl 10w6v2 subwoofer and the jl 500/1 amp. I Had an audio shop install it for me here in NJ. The problem is that the subwoofer and amp do not work? It for some reason does not turn on. The guy from the audio shop told me that since I kept my stock radio in place, that i have to put my volume on the Head unit to 0 (ZERO) and then turn it back up and the amp and subwoofer should work. Well The system was just installed yesterday and it didnt work at first but then started working fine when i was on my way home. The next day passes and no luck in trying to make it work. I kept on doing that volume thing the audio installer told me and still no luck. Not only does the set up not work, but now while i was driving with the music turned up, all of a sudden the sound went dead. The CD was still playing but now there was no sound at all coming out. This happened to me twice already and I have to turn my car off and on just to fix that problem.The question in hand, is that true what the audio guy said to me and did that happen to anyone in here. Or is he just assuming that and has no clue on what is going on? What may be wrong with the set-up of the system? Any comments will be greatly appreciated since I have no knowledge about audio modifications and I'am really ticked off since i paid for this job to be done right.

The shop is closed today, but i will be going in there tomorrow to tell them whats up with my set-up, Therefore i need suggestions so i wont be brushed off from the shop with more dumb comments from a short audio guy.

Thanx for your help, Greatly Appreciated

 

i say he dont know what he is talking about.

I say check for the speaker wire going to the amp might be shorting against each other n might be putting the receiver in fault mode.

Also make sure your getting a good ground to the amp and that there is 12v going to the positive on the amp.

Also check the remote line since that is what turns on the amp. <~~~this si mainly as a precaution because if it was just the sub not working then i would say its that but since u say no sound at all then i think its else where

 

In addition to Glex's notes... if you're using auto sensing power on then the lead is irrelevant (not sure if that amp even does that). If you are using auto sense, tap into the blue/silver lead at the bose amp. This is the remote turn on.

Also, not sure what you're using to feed the amp - speaker level or line, but I just had a similar problem with my Basslink. By switching the signal through line level converters my shut off was fixed. Infinty thought it may have been related to a common ground on the head/bose amps.

P

 

WoW sounds like alot of NJ shops around me are doing pretty shady work and giving a ton of BS answers to their customers.

Definately an install error, not an infinity problem. Most likely lies within the remote wire.

Care to share which shop this was?

 

Thanx Everyone for the replies, I will keep all this in mind when going back to the shop tomorrow to see what this guy is actually talking about.

BTW. The shop is in South Jersey called One Stop Car Audio, and i have been hearing a lot of Jersey shops screwing us around. Damn Jersey People......

 

Ahhh Im actually vaguely familiar with them.

Just glad theres no negative postings about me on any of these forums...

 

You have several steps on debugging the sound system.

A couple of questions to ask, and steps to debugging the system:

1) First thing to check is power
Is the amp turning on?
If not, are you using the signal sense feature (speaker level input) of the JL?
Or are you using the remote turn on leads? If so, did he tap the correct 12v?
I always believe that using the remote leads is a MUCH better option than using the speaker level input. This way, your amp is turning on when the radio is turning on, and not have to deal with the delay that's inherent with the signal sense (speaker level input, etc , or whatever you want to call it)

2) Are you getting a Signal?
- From what you wrote, it seems like you are getting a signal. How did he get the signal? From the Head unit? Before the Bose amp in the trunk? or After the Bose amp (should NOT be doing this)?
- Getting the signal from the head unit BEFORE the signals goes into the amp should be the way to go. This is a clear source of signal straight FROM the head unit.

3) Is the Sub hooked up correctly?
- Is yours a Dual Voice Coilover? Do you have it wired correctly?
- A simple way to check that part of it is just connecting your Sub to a 9V battery. It's BY FAR the simpliest debug method to see if your sub is hooked up correctly, or if there are any loose wires INSIDE the box.

If you go thru each step, it should tell you where the problem is coming from.

Hope this helps.
J

 

Thanx for all your replies.

BTW. sorry I didnt mention this before, my stereo system is the base model (NON-BOSE). Does this make a difference to any of the above replies or it doesnt matter?

 

Yes. According to the wiring diagrams in the FAQ , there is no amplifier for the Non-Bose system.

 

Use another installer and another shop. These guys are obviously not pros.

 

I definately agree with getting a direct turn on signal. This will eliminate any questioning of it working properly.

If hes using a LOC then he would need it After the amp. Direct RCAs spliced in Before the amp..

Using a 9V or a tone genrator,etc would only tell him that the sub is connected, it wouldnt confirm impedance though.

 

The JL's don't need a LOC...

Pearl05G: Nice Avatar! I like..

 

No nowadays most amps dont, I just prefer to use the RCA inputs rather than the linelevel inputs offered..

Thanks, that was my unfinished project from my former car.