Thanks for the kind words.

I meant HP at a lower freq.

Few makers of cone drivers make tweeters. Different manufacturing techniques. The company who makes it is not known to the retail speaker world, don't make any full speakers, mostly tweeters. They make the Diamond aluminum tweeter too.

I don't worry about lobing much in a car, especially with tweeters, because if the tweeters are high, you'll get reflected sound anyway. In cars I really work to keep to a couple of simple principles, because the variables are so great and we're so working in the dark anyway (without analyzing a car with an Audio Precision or something like that) that it's easy to over-analyze.

To literally answer your question, when MECP was first being written, I served on the MECP Commitee and I am one of the credited contributors of the first MECP Study Guide. (All I really got accepted was the explanation used of analog and digital conversion). But MECP doesn't require much knowledge about passive filter design... I just got started doing them with raw drivers back in the late 80's when I was just starting out.

But there are a lot of people with 12V credentials that are long on ego and short on results, so I better let the helpfulness of my actual advice do the talking.

 

LOL...I'll agree with that last statement. Sometimes it's easy to pick them out, but some mask it well! Well, I am not...I just have done alot of research and experimenting, and have done a few cars. I like experimenting, so we'll see how long this setup lasts before I change some things around. Who knows, maybe I'll try your idea. It's not too expensive to build the crossovers!

 

How thick was your fiberglass box? I'm working on a similar project but wanted to know how thick I should build up the FG.

 

Don't go more than 2 mm at the thinnest points, I'd say. Just use enough to hold the shape and then add more on the inside later.

 

So how thick should it be? I've made a mold of the corner of the trunk. Now I need to build up the thickness using fleece and was planning on going 1/2" thick.

 

Way thicker than it needs to be, IMO. If that thing's a quarter inch thick all the way around, you couldn't break it with a jackhammer.

 

.5" is pretty thick. Mine is generally 1/4", but it gets up to 1/2" in places. There really is no formula, but it depends on how much bracing/how big the box is/how many curves there are. If you have a flat spot, it should be thicker than if you have alot of curves. I used the "rule of thumb" if you press on one spot (with your thumb) on the box and it doesn't flex, you are ok, if it does, then add some more layers in that spot. Curves are much stronger than flat spots, and bracing the inside with mdf also helps. I have some more "progress pics" if you want them, let me know. Just so you know, you should be able to stand on the box without fear at the end of the project.

 

OH, and it also depends on the sub too. I used a 10w7 w/500 watts, if you use something less, then not as thick. IMO, you might as well make it strong, just in case.

 

Thanks fellas for the responses. You saved me a lot of time, effort and resin. I'll aim for 1/4" as mine will have a lot of curves.

 

does this theory work for women as well? curves vs. thickness vs bracing.... hmm...

 

Very nice and clean install, good work.....