Anyone had found the right area to insulat to keep the road/wind noise out of the cabin of G35 sedan? I want it to be Lexus like quiet. Not sure the weather seal is wearing off after 2 years or My ear just got more sensitive but I think I almost had it with it.

 

Ways to cut road noise (in order of effectiveness):

1) Tire choice

2) Window tint

3) Sound damping material.

Good, light, non-smelly sound damping material is effective, but not as effective for noise as 1 and 2. I use Cascade VMAX. Stuff is great. Light, flexible, easy to work with.
I personally don't go over OEM bolt heads, harnesses, or even cover holes in the inner door - but I do both the inner door skin and the inside of the outer door skin. The upside is the stereo sounds better too.

After the doors, you can do the R deck and the trunk lid for noise from the rear (noticeable) and if you still want more I'd get some VB3.5 lead septum and put it on top of the four wheel wells. But that's heavy and I don't like adding weight.

 

How does window tint help? Not doubting you, just totally confused!

 

Lot of high freq sound goes right through the glass. Tint damps that out a lot.

Surprised me too: )

 

Ok. I am normally not dense but this is not registering this morning. Do you have a visual of some kind as to what you mean? Sorry to seem like a pain..

 

There are a lot of pics on the internet of installing sound deadening or damping material (often generically called "Dynamat") to the inside of the door like a blanket - one big sheet over everything.

Usually when you take a door panel off, you see some bolt heads for the window mechanism, and wire harnesses, and the metal of the door has holes in it for service purposes.

If you make sloppy speaker spacers and then have weak midbass, and then cover up all these holes with sound damping mat, the midbass sounds better (because you're fixing your original error)... but if your window ever gets broken, the mechanic will have an awful time replacing your glass - because the service holes are gone! Ditto for a bad lock motor, etc., etc.

My philosophy is that the car shouldn't be harder to work on because you've done work to it, if the work is thought out well.

This page shows before and after (among others). The after is not my preference, but is what was requested by the customer.

http://kward1.homestead.com/WRXafter.html

 

THANK YOU!! I am not as dense as I thought but figured surely I was wrong about what you meant. Not exactly what I had thought but close enough that I know what you meant now.

I agree about the possible problems later on....that's a tough one to gamble on. You are just hoping that nothing happens that is major I guess.

 

We often do sound damping in a quilting approach rather than this blanket approach. Works almost as well, and no problems later. Takes a little longer is all. If you use better material, like Cascade VMax, a smaller amount isn't really a loss.

 

your a tool, maybee i could also use some tint to insulate my house its probably as effective at that as quiting the noise in my car. your a ****ing moron

 

Sounds like another drunk Boston fan.

Go sit at the card table and let the grownups talk.