Need info on amps, LOCs.....
Joined: May 2004
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From: Staten Island, NY
Need info on amps, LOCs.....
So I've already started by replacing my door components with some Polk DB6500 pieces and have that connected to the stock bose amp.
My next project might be to do the rear side speakers with some polk DB650's.
I have a few questions so here goes:
Can I run the Polk DB650's off the stock amp?
If not, what would be a good amp to power both the door components and the new DB650's. What other equipment would I need in terms of a LOC?
Would this second amp draw too much power since I will also be running a JL 500/1 with 2 JL 10w3v2's as well.
If I've missed anything please let me know becuase I am not too savvy w/ car stereo items.
Thanks.
My next project might be to do the rear side speakers with some polk DB650's.
I have a few questions so here goes:
Can I run the Polk DB650's off the stock amp?
If not, what would be a good amp to power both the door components and the new DB650's. What other equipment would I need in terms of a LOC?
Would this second amp draw too much power since I will also be running a JL 500/1 with 2 JL 10w3v2's as well.
If I've missed anything please let me know becuase I am not too savvy w/ car stereo items.
Thanks.
The stock HU has "balanced" outputs.
If you use an amp with balanced compatible inputs (such as the JL amps) then you shouldn't need any LOC at all. If you end up needing one the Soundgate LOCPREA should work well.
As far as what you can run off the stock amp, I defer...
If you use an amp with balanced compatible inputs (such as the JL amps) then you shouldn't need any LOC at all. If you end up needing one the Soundgate LOCPREA should work well.
As far as what you can run off the stock amp, I defer...
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,982
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From: Staten Island, NY
hey thanks for the quick reply, which JL amp would u recommend to run these components? It would just have to run the doors DB6500 (woofer and tweeter) and the DB650's since I would disconnect my 6x9's.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Thanks el duderino, I think I'll go w/ that instead of the PAC AOEM-NIS2. Install should be much easier, and I can use shorter (i.e. cheaper) RCA wires.
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It's really hard to get induced noise on the OEM HU-OEM amp connection.
With an aftermarket amp, it's a bit easier. But I personally wouldn't hesistate for a moment to put the LOC (IF I use one) at the amp.
Of course, when you use an amp with balanced compatible inputs, you don't need one.
With an aftermarket amp, it's a bit easier. But I personally wouldn't hesistate for a moment to put the LOC (IF I use one) at the amp.
Of course, when you use an amp with balanced compatible inputs, you don't need one.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Staten Island, NY
Thanks El, I think I might go with a JL 450/4 since it gives a little more power. The 300/4 is good but it's a little underpowered for the speakers IMO.
Joined: May 2004
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From: Staten Island, NY
Also, would I just take the stock amp out or would I somehow connect the 2 new amps to this one? Just trying to gauge how much work is involved.
I'd like to just run new wires for the speakers from the new amps rather than tear the car apart.
Thanks.
I'd like to just run new wires for the speakers from the new amps rather than tear the car apart.
Thanks.
I use two LOC's, one a four channel that goes into my 300/4 amp, and one a two channel that runs off the rear "subwoofers" in the premium bose system (I put "subwoofers" in quotes because those are the 6x9's in the rear deck. I have removed them from my rear deck). The two channel runs into my 500/1, and powers a single 10w6v2 in a 4080 box.
My setup, including speakers, is remarably similar to what you are looking for; I really like it, and would recommend something similiar. (see my sig for the list)
Dave
My setup, including speakers, is remarably similar to what you are looking for; I really like it, and would recommend something similiar. (see my sig for the list)
Dave
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,982
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From: Staten Island, NY
That's almost the same exact specs as what I'm looking for. I'm probably going to go with a 450/4 rather than the 3 since it seems a little underpowered.
Did you still use your stock amp for anything? I'm going to disconnect my 6x9 POS' so I don't thing I'd need it.
Did you still use your stock amp for anything? I'm going to disconnect my 6x9 POS' so I don't thing I'd need it.
I've gotten plenty of volume out of the 300/4, but more power can't hurt, as long as you don't turn it up too high.
The stock amp is still connected, as the LOC's are connected after the amp. This is so I still have the fade/balance and treble/bass controls on my stock head unit. The out speaker lines on the stock amp feed into the LOC's, which then feed into the JL amps. Also, I have found that for some reason, if the bose amp is totally unplugged, the head unit will not turn on. It doesn't take up much room, so I don't mind having it there.
Dave
The stock amp is still connected, as the LOC's are connected after the amp. This is so I still have the fade/balance and treble/bass controls on my stock head unit. The out speaker lines on the stock amp feed into the LOC's, which then feed into the JL amps. Also, I have found that for some reason, if the bose amp is totally unplugged, the head unit will not turn on. It doesn't take up much room, so I don't mind having it there.
Dave


