THe CS equalization is not continuous.You set it by hitting the set button and running test tones on a supplied cd.It stores the curve. If the HU bass boost is 10 db at 100hz then it passes that through and it will bost the bass 10 db. Since the AVC is in the HU, the funtion will do the same and pass through the CS curve and do what it did before.

There is an external volume control which is just like a sensitivety level. If the HU vol control does not bost or cut any frequencies when adjusted then it you just have an additional sensitivity adjustment (for my signal path, hu vol, CS remote, input of EQ, EQ out satelites, eq out bass, bass CUBE, amp sensitivity,bass amp sensitivitey, remote for CUBE, remote for bass amp, passive xovers tweeter attenuate, lol).

If it does (our does at higher volume) then you choose a point before it cuts and set that number for full volume so the curve stays the same. If it changes continuolsy then pick your level, set CS and use the remote of the CS as the main volume control

please ask more questions if have them

Mark

 

get 2 8w3v2s mounted in a suspended sealed box in the rear deck. That'll be better than any 6x9 any day. I'd go for 1 set of nice components in the front. CDT/FOCAL/DLS...depending on what kind of sound you like.

 

BASS!!! ... at least to fill in what Bose tries to call Bass.
Just do the AMP for Subwoofer and the Components for front... simple.

The sub in the trunk CAN be taken out if you need your trunk space back. So solution would be Scenario:

1. Golfing -> Solution: Get off lazy a$$, simply disconnect sub box, and take the sub box out.... lol

2. Snowboarding -> Solution: Get off lazy a$$, simply disconnect sub box, and take the sub box out.... lol

3. Groceries -> Solution: Get off lazy a$$, simply disconnect sub box, and take the sub box out.... lol

etc...


See... There are limitless possibilities... lol
(Hope that was useless advise... ) haha


You can do it yourself...!! It's not hard if you don't mind ripping apart your car. Not to mention it's fun to see your car down to the metal, back seats out, doors off, carpet ripped back...

 

Everyone's solution is different, as their tastes and limits are likewise.

Using the wealth of info from people on this site (el Duderino knows his chit), I've recently done the following to my coupe.

-Infinity Kappa 60.7CS components and tweeters up front, $200 out-the door.

-JL e6450 6-channel amp, slighly used, $206 shipped on eBay.

-4 Sq. ft. Dynamat, 20 ft. of 4 awg wire, some twisted pair RCA's and other misc. for ~$100.

I first did the speakers thinking if I replaced using 2 Ohm, I'd at least be satisfied for a bit. Instead, it basically exposed even more clearly the limitations of the Bose amp. Not having the budget for a "Slash" JL, but knowing I needed a quality amp that takes balanced diff inputs, I went for the e6450.

I finished the amp install last night, taking the better part of the weekend because I'm **** and solder everything, even cleaning the flux residue after with isopropyl. I was able to fit the rather large amp under the left plastic support, with the spare shifted a bit to the right (No lost trunk space). I still have some tuning to do as I go through my variety of music, but I can't emphasize this enough. My car sounds literally 10 times better than the stock Bose, with a high degree of adjustability. The Infinity's now sound phenomenal, and the 6X9's actually sound decent down low. They will be gone when my budget allows, but I'm surprised that they will hold me over for a bit.

Anyway, sorry for the long post, but I wanted to say thay for ~$500, I was able to make a dramatic improvement to the stock system with very little compromise to quality. Granted the e6450 will quickly run out of power for a number of applications, but it scales well with 2 ohm speakers and stays pretty balanced with the OEM ones along the way (sequential upgrades). When I'm ready to get a sub, I'll disconnect the 6X9's and bridge their output. I think I can get a 10" sub to sound good at 220W RMS into 4 ohms (@14.4V). Lastly, I'll swap the rears for some 2 ohm coaxials. I should squeeze in just under $800. Of course, I'm doing all the work myself, but I cut myself a deal on my labor rate. It won't set off car alarms, but it will sound exactly how I like it and seems to fit the bill of the original request (Minus sub). Good luck .

 

Now tell me you decided to do this because you saw my thread and I'll call you a 100% success story

Congrats on your upgrades, it's great to hear someone who was able to get a nice upgrade they are happy with first time around. With your OEM integrated sound system you've got something (at least I think) quite a bit more special then a lot of these DD conversion installs, or the "run of the mill" installs Tweeter or other average shops will spec you.

I've made 4, yes 4, adapter rings for trying to mount my new component speakers in the front door stock locations, but I can't make one I'm happy with. I'm about to make a template and take it someplace to have them do it for me. Don't like making stuff that looks ghetto (no offense to all you who may live in a ghetto, or may consider yourself ghetto-esque).

 

Sorry if I left you out, I'd be lying if I said your influence wasn't in there one way or the other. I had to credit el Duderino specifically for demystifying the whole balanced differential thing (Again). This gave me more specific search criteria than, "Get a 'slash' series and you won't regret it." I of course have no doubt the advice is true, but the price put even the thought of embarking on the project out of reach.

Turns out there's hope, at least for guys like me with realistic expectations, a modest budget, and a wife with an uncanny ability to sniff out mod plans. I had already past the point of diminishing return on performance mods, so it's especially nice to achieve such gains starting inside.

 

I meant fitting the amp under the left support Pics please!

 

Ok, so i pulled the trigger and got some JL Components for the front door speakers and some JL 6.5 Coaxs for the rear side speakers. So thats 4 speakers and 2 tweeters...im having them installed next wed...pics to follow (if theres anything to see)

So here my issue now - my buddy at the Stereo shop says that i cant replace the BOSE Amp becasue an "aftermarket" amp wont hook up to my BOSE headunit? Is this true? What are my options here? Id love to run a nice amp so i can get the full potential out of my new JL speakers, but i dont want to loose my factory Headunit???

Solutions???

 

Glad you like it, and that it worked out so well! congrats!

I upgraded the audio in our car using the OEM HU the Tuesday before our Saturday wedding last year. The joke (true) was that I wanted SOMETHING under my control : )

 

Anything guys? Id like to get an amp in there at the same time the speakers go in - but the installer is telling me that he isnt aware of a way to do it??? He said hes love it if i could find out what the solution is for an aftermarket amp (most likely a JL) and the stock G35 HU?

Thanks in advance!

 

You have any options for other installers? He may be your buddy, but he doesn't know much about audio electronics - like many installers, he's scared of Bose.

A JL "slash" amp can take the balanced outputs from the Bose HU directly, as has been documented here several times - even within this very thread.

If he wants to know how to do it, have him give me a call. Number's on the web site. I've supported shops plenty of times in OEM HU integration.

 

Duderino: I stopped by Street Effects today based on your advice.

I heard some Diamond Audio speakers, because thats all they had. The guy I spoke to said that he liked DLS and some other brand I cant remember, but unfortunately they didnt have any that I could hear. The shop seemed pretty good, and they said they were familiar with G35s. Thanks for the advice. The only other place I stopped at was an Auto Image (since it was on the way) -- and these guys were all jerks. I got the whole "you can't use the stock head unit and aftermarket amp and components, it wont work/blow up/ etc) routine from those guys.

I still havent narrowed it down to components yet, since I really didnt get to hear many - But I'm looking at a 300/2 amp ($300 ebay'd) JL amp. Should that be enough power? The speakers they played for me sounded excellent, and they werent even being amped! So I cant wait to get my system together. For the sub, I was thinking the 4080 box, JL W6 or W7 (havent decided yet) and a 500/1 JL Amp for that. The guy at auto image said that its for each W7, a 1000/1 is reccomended. Would a 500/1 be allright?

 

Not sure how that guy stays in business if he can't even hook up an aftermarket amp to a factory head unit. You can use a Line Out Converter or like El Duderino says, if the amp accepts balanced inputs, you don't need anything else. Just connect the speaker outs directly to the amp. Many people here are using aftermarket amps with the factory HU. I'll be doing the same.

 

Can you tell me what a JL "slash" amp is?

 

Line out converter? Where would i get something like this? SHOULD most shops have these? Are they universal???