Ok I finally cancelled the order for the JL 10w1v2 since the wait is too long... and now i have just ordered the Image Dynamics ID10 v.3 D2 from soundomain and should come by the end of this week...
im just worried about not having enough power for this sub since i have only about 150 RMS going to this sub

 

You'll be fine unless you're going for competition sound.

 

Does it matter which RCA wire you splice the positive and negative to? I would think you could potentially get out of phase. The outside RCA wire is - and the inside is + correct?

 

Sorry i dont understand what u mean? Like when u splice it the outside code of wires are negative and inside is positive. and luckily mine are color coded so i didnt mess up on left and right.

 

He means the actual RCA wires that you cut up to tap into the headunit output wires.

Your original assumption was correct.. the inside of the wire is positive, and the sheild is negative.

 

are most twisted pair RCA cables labeled to indicate which wire is shield and which is pin?

 

Negative ghost writer. I used my voltmeter set to the continuity setting (the tone setting) to test which was which. A small LED or piazo buzzer will work too, however.

 

Looks very nice. Any problems with heat, with the plastic cover and trunk mat installed?

 

Great job on your installation! I have been thinking about doing something similar.

When you say you used the stock bolt to bolt down the MDF boards, what stock bolts are you talking about? I don't have the Bose setup, so maybe I don't have the bolts you are talking about.

I do have three threaded rods sticking up through the trunk in that area. Is that what you mean? They look pretty short to me.

 

So far I havent have any problems with over heating...Since i havent really pushed the amp to the limit and also I STILL dont have my subwoofer yet...

Yea you found it, I used the three threaded roads that are sticking up to boat down the MDF boards. Yea they are really short, what i did was drill 4 holes on the MDF board so the threaded rods can stick through...then use a dremel kit to sand down one of the holes to fit a bolt in the middle of the MDF board. If you do it right it should leave you one threaded rod not covered by the MDF board. I am planning to get a piece of metal bent it and reinforce the mdf board. I will get a better picture when i install the sub.

 

I see... You used the Dremel to countersink the MDF so that you could get the nut on the short threaded rod.

That would be cool... Thanks!

 

yea countersink...

 

Hey finally I got the sub, but I think i got the wrong one. I wired it up and doesnt sound right? so this amp suppose to give out 75wattx4... with the 4ohm MB Quarts... and the rear bridged should it be 4 ohms or 8 ohms? now i have image dynamics ID10 v.3 dual 2 ohm subwoofer... May be i should return it and get 8 ohm which is dual 4 ohm

 

Bridge the R 2 channels together, wire the two vc's in Series (amp (+) to VC 1(+), VC1 (-) to VC2 (+), VC2(-) to amp (-) ) ad it will be fine.

I suspect you have the 2 VCs in parallel but out of phase with each other...

 

Yea i got that right? its wired in series for sure... the JL 300/4 manual said if I do this the amp will drop the front channels to 2 Ohm 75x2 and the bridged rear would be 150x1 at 4 ohm....what does this affect vs having 4 ohm all around? and what about input RCAs? i find that using only a set of RCA input as 2 channel mode works now? but then i think i loose the control of rear gain sensitivity in the rear bridge channel... is that right? so I should connect another RCA to the rear bridge channel?