All are grounded to the same spot except the HU, using a ground distro.

Here is the power distribution chart:

 

Happy to be here. Looks like a cool place so far. I haven't sold the Tiburon yet (wonder if I could even find a buyer with the custom dash and all..hehe), but it's certainly an option. And yes, my next car will most likely be a G coupe.

 

That's fantastic. I was in Tampa over Christmas. Went to the Bucs game. I should hook up with you the next time we are down. I need to meet some more of the guys from ECA.

 

I fixed the issue with the eu-700's slapping the door panel on long excursions. Just sanded the baffles down 1/4".

So... For those of you with a sedan, you can easily fit a driver that has a 3.5" mounting depth. Just need to create a 1" baffle.

The bad news is that somehow I am not getting signal to the LR door.

I ran out of daylight before I could start the troubleshooting... Here's what I do know....

The wire ran to the door is Tsunami 14GA twisted pair sheathed wire.

Each conductor is insulated, and then both conductors are twisted together and sheathed with an additional insulator.

Finally, they are techflexed. Each run is ziptied and affixed to the body.

This should be fun to figure out. lol...

Anyways.. The 700 that is operational sounds incredible. Really helps fill out the bottom end. It is LPd at 50Hz 24/dB.

Also got my 4080 Box. Fits like a charm. Now waiting on the 13oV.2.

Sooo.... the punch list looks like the following:

Alt Whine.
Sanding down the other baffle.
Figuring out why I ain't got no signal in the LR.


Wheeeeee!

 

Nice install!

 

ALTERNATOR WHINE IS TOAST!!!!

Turns out it was coming from the RCA Interconnects between the 701 and the amps. I rerouted the interconnects, and voila. No more whine.

Now onto the sanding and LR signal issue.


I am happpppppyyyyyyyy!!!!!

 

Figured out what the problem was regarding the LR signal. I had a bad connection at the amp. The fix was easy enough.

Sanded down the baffles, re-installed the sub, and boom! There is sound. Yay.

Now I need to figure out how to use my O'scope. I originally used a DMM to set the gains. I am really curious to see what the max-unclipped volume setting is on the factory deck.

 

how'd you get the amps to stay on the back of the seats?

 

milox do you know is stock non bose outputs for fron and rear are the same??
as far as EQ and sound level?

 

Good question. The amps are not attached to the back seats. The amps are mounted to a piece of 1/2" MDF which mounts to the amp rack carcass.

Amps on 1/2" MDF tray:


Amp Rack Carcass:


The amp tray mounts to the keyholes on the four blocks attached to the carcass above.

 

Ged,

WRT equalization... I have no idea. I would assume so, but I have not put an RTA across the leads. You may want to ask el_duderino. He may have some more info.

I tapped into the front outputs for the LOC. I would be surprised if there was a difference in output btw front and rear, but you never know.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

I still haven't had a shot at a non-Bose HU here either. Portland or Seattle G35 owners, get in touch!

 

For those of you wondering...

Max unclipped volume on the non-bose factory deck is 23. Just tested with the scope and a 1khz sine wave @ 0dbf.

 

milox this is probably not your first system,, how would you rate stock HU as far as SQ is it good/bad/ugly would you have much better sq if you'd go alpine lets say,, i know hu plays about 10-15% in how good sq is

30% speakers 20% amps and 35% install

thanks

 

So far I don't really have any complaints with the SQ of the deck. Especially considering it is a factory unit. I DO have complaints about the display... but that's a completely different issue.

I am confident that with the proper gain structure and tuning this setup will rival the SQ of many systems with an aftermarket deck. All of the people who have listened to this system so far have been impressed with both the output and quality...

BUT...

This type of setup does have some serious weak links. The LOC for example... I am sure the SQ suffers because of this. To what degree? I dunno, but I am sure there is signal degradation. There is also a greater chance of noise entering the signal chain using an LOC, not to mention the RCA interconnect run going to the trunk. Optical would be optimal. <--- Cute.

DACs/Op-Amps are another possible shortcoming. I have no idea what the components are that are living in there. However, I would bet that they are not the caliber that you would find in the DRZ9255, 8455, or F#1 decks. Probably some potential SQ loss there.

Having said all of that, I shopped for the entire year trying to find a deck that would meet both my aesthetic requirements as well as my technical requirements. I couldn't find a deck that had everything I was looking for for under $1500 retail. So, I decided to compromise with the H701. It has all of the processing power I need, and when I do find *my* holy grail of source unit, I will be in good shape in the signal massaging department.

No, this isn't my first system, but it is my first "higher-end" system. I put that in quotes because, IMO, it really isn't that high end. Consider the amps, and subs. eD makes quality gear at an affordable price-- with a great 3 year warranty. I decided to buy down-market amps, and spend the money saved on the front stage drivers. It's all a compromise.

I can certainly say that this system sounds better than any other I have owned (all with aftermarket decks), but I don't think it is because of the source unit. I think it is due to the spent on the install (deadening, driver mounting, cable routing, terminations, etc...) and choosing quality drivers.

Wow... this is a long post... sorry about that.

Let me sum it up by saying this. IMO, my system sounds great. Once I get the 12" sub in and have it re-tuned by Mr. Smith it should sound incredible. Once I find the *holy grail* source unit it should sound unbelievable. At least to my ears.

YMMV.