4 Channel Amp Install Problems - help !!!
#1
4 Channel Amp Install Problems - help !!!
I had a audio shop install a 12" sub / box & 2 amps. Amp1 was a 4 channel amp that was going to be used to power my kappas. Amp 2 for the sub. When they hooked this up Amp1 emitted an electrical static noise through the doors speakers. They said perhaps the LOC would not work with the bose HU. Oddly enough, the LOC worked fine with the SUB amp.
So in short, the system sounds MUCH better (kappas powerd by bose amp and a 12" powered by a 200w amp, however I curious as to how to a a 4 channel amp in order to get rid of the bose amp.
Thanks
Chris
So in short, the system sounds MUCH better (kappas powerd by bose amp and a 12" powered by a 200w amp, however I curious as to how to a a 4 channel amp in order to get rid of the bose amp.
Thanks
Chris
#2
When I first modded my stereo, I kept the oem HU, removed the rear seat speakers, replaced the door speakers, rear deck speakers and amp. I used the oem stereo wiring for the amp signal and the door speakers. I also had a noise emitting from my speakers. It took me a while to figure out how to solve this frustrating problem. I am pretty sure the noise in my car was generated from the close proximity of the fuel pump power wires and the oem stereo wires (they all run down the drivers side). Most people install a set of LOC's. I tried at least 2 different types of LOC'S with no improvement. I reinstalled the oem amp and the noise would disappear. So, I removed the center console, soldered a pair of RCA's to the oem amp signal wires and ran them down the center of the car. No more noise
#3
There are a few ways to do this. You can take the signal before the Bose amp (recommended) and use a quality LOC to connect RCAs to your 4ch amp. David Navone NE-774V (4channel) or Soundgate LOCPREA (2 channel) have worked well for many here. If you have an amp that can take balanced inputs, like the JL Audio slash series amps, then you don't even need an LOC. You can cut one end off a set of RCAs and splice into the signal before the amp and run the other end of the RCAs to the amp. This is better than using a LOC.
You can also use an LOC after the Bose amp (not as good as tapping signal before amp). The Navone NE-774V works well here too. The LOCPREA isn't designed to go after the amp.
Regardless of which way you decide to go, the quality of the installation can make all the difference in the world. Make sure all connections are good and tight, be sure to keep the power and signal cables separated and make sure you have a good ground.
Here's a link to a thread I saved that may help you some.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...stall%2A+trunk
You can also use an LOC after the Bose amp (not as good as tapping signal before amp). The Navone NE-774V works well here too. The LOCPREA isn't designed to go after the amp.
Regardless of which way you decide to go, the quality of the installation can make all the difference in the world. Make sure all connections are good and tight, be sure to keep the power and signal cables separated and make sure you have a good ground.
Here's a link to a thread I saved that may help you some.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...stall%2A+trunk
Last edited by jeremyp111; 01-29-2006 at 11:03 AM.
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#8
There are a few ways to do this. You can take the signal before the Bose amp (recommended) and use a quality LOC to connect RCAs to your 4ch amp. David Navone NE-774V (4channel) or Soundgate LOCPREA (2 channel) have worked well for many here. If you have an amp that can take balanced inputs, like the JL Audio slash series amps, then you don't even need an LOC. You can cut one end off a set of RCAs and splice into the signal before the amp and run the other end of the RCAs to the amp. This is better than using a LOC.
You can also use an LOC after the Bose amp (not as good as tapping signal before amp). The Navone NE-774V works well here too. The LOCPREA isn't designed to go after the amp.
Regardless of which way you decide to go, the quality of the installation can make all the difference in the world. Make sure all connections are good and tight, be sure to keep the power and signal cables separated and make sure you have a good ground.
Here's a link to a thread I saved that may help you some.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...stall%2A+trunk
You can also use an LOC after the Bose amp (not as good as tapping signal before amp). The Navone NE-774V works well here too. The LOCPREA isn't designed to go after the amp.
Regardless of which way you decide to go, the quality of the installation can make all the difference in the world. Make sure all connections are good and tight, be sure to keep the power and signal cables separated and make sure you have a good ground.
Here's a link to a thread I saved that may help you some.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...stall%2A+trunk
Thanks for clearing up a few of my questions. If you dont mind helping me out I had a few more...
I have an aftermarket HU installed in my G35 coupe and this was done before I bought the car. Someone on the forums mentioned that with any aftermarket HU the OEM Bose amp cannot be used. If this is so that means that with my HU installed im currently running the speakers powered through the HU?
If I intend to install a JL 300/4 amp for the speakers in the car, where would I splice into the wiring. From the HU or the original bose wiring? Thanks in advance..
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If you want a set of (4) Twisted Pair RCA cables, I have a 3 meter set of Audiophile IXOS RCA Twisted pair i'd be willing to part with. PM if interested.
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