PAC AAI-NIS2 on an '06 with Bluetooth
#1
PAC AAI-NIS2 on an '06 with Bluetooth
Hey guys, I know someone here has installed the PAC AAI-NIS2 on their sedan/coupe that has bluetooth. Please post if you have since I'm sure I'll have some questions.
I'm getting my AAI-NIS2 unit and Blitzsafe Universal Ipod Interface unit in on Wednesday and I'll hopefully have the installation completed by the end of the week. I'm planning to take pictures of the process and post how things went in this thread.
Thanks!
I'm getting my AAI-NIS2 unit and Blitzsafe Universal Ipod Interface unit in on Wednesday and I'll hopefully have the installation completed by the end of the week. I'm planning to take pictures of the process and post how things went in this thread.
Thanks!
#2
#3
yeah it does, check out this page:
http://g35ipod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85
and this:
http://pac-audio.com/instructions/AAI-NIS2.pdf
http://g35ipod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85
and this:
http://pac-audio.com/instructions/AAI-NIS2.pdf
#4
alright so here's a summary of my experience on day 1 of the install... (yes, that means there will be a day 2)
so i rushed home in the afternoon to take advantage of the sunlight and start making headway on my installation. i stop by home depot to pick up some velcro so i can keep the PAC and Blitzsafe units from moving around. i get all the parts together with the tools i think i'll need and head out to my car. i start by popping the hood to disconnect the battery terminal. pull out my "auto mechanic" toolset and guess what, the bolts for the battery terminal nut aren't long enough since the screw that goes through the nut is really long. i hee and haw for a little bit thinking maybe i can get away without disconnecting the terminal. what people don't ever make clear is that putting the car in neutral is not that simple (at least it wasn't for me). you have to first drop the gear into neutral with the ignition switch turned to "ON" but without the car actually on while holding the brake down, then you can try turning the ignition all the way off. only it doesn't go all the way off because the car complains about leaving it out of park. that's where the battery disconnection is key, because it shuts up this annoying beeping. anyway i finally go down to home depot with my gf after discovering this and pick up a 10mm wrench ($7).
i get back, drop it into N, pop the hood, disconnect the battery and feel ready to go. here are the steps i followed:
1.) pull down the leather boot. give it a tug, it'll slide down
2.) identify the copper colored C clip. it won't look like a C clip at first, you'll see two legs of it pointing toward the right and left sides of the car. pull these legs APART, then push it toward the stereo. it will come off pretty easily.
3.) pull up on the shift **** now, it will come off with ease.
4.) put a butter knife under the aluminum trim, with a thin towel separating the two. this will keep you from marring the aluminum trim as others have warned about. i found a terry towel to be too thick so i had a thinner one on hand. slowly work the different edges and plan to leverage the knife upward until you hear a few clicks. don't worry, it's not any clips breaking, rather retention clips giving away. once you get enough up to pull at with your fingers, resort to that until you have the trim pulled up and away. the trim will run to the bottom above the bose unit (in other words, right above the coin/cigarette tray). there will be a wire connected to it. you don't have to disconnect it, just be careful not to strain it. i just let it sit on the edge of the passenger side.
5.) there will be two screws holding the finishers on either side of the stereo screwed in. unscrew these. now, pull on each finisher toward the closest door at first. then up, then toward you. be prepared to pull somewhat hard, these suckers are not easy to get out.
6.) remove the top lid of the clock finisher. it should just pull out with ease by pulling straight toward the back of the car. the bottom portion needs to come out and it's a bit trickier. you can try pulling it out from either the right or left end. it's not smooth and i was worried about breaking something, but it finally came out with no damage.
7.) ok now you should have 5 screws showing that hold the head unit in place. you will see more screws than this because there are 4 screws on either side of the head unit as well. don't bother with these screws on either side. the 5 screws you care about are in the following location:
i'm planning to finish up the job tomorrow. i'll have some pictures from the install, final results and more notes on how to do this.
so i rushed home in the afternoon to take advantage of the sunlight and start making headway on my installation. i stop by home depot to pick up some velcro so i can keep the PAC and Blitzsafe units from moving around. i get all the parts together with the tools i think i'll need and head out to my car. i start by popping the hood to disconnect the battery terminal. pull out my "auto mechanic" toolset and guess what, the bolts for the battery terminal nut aren't long enough since the screw that goes through the nut is really long. i hee and haw for a little bit thinking maybe i can get away without disconnecting the terminal. what people don't ever make clear is that putting the car in neutral is not that simple (at least it wasn't for me). you have to first drop the gear into neutral with the ignition switch turned to "ON" but without the car actually on while holding the brake down, then you can try turning the ignition all the way off. only it doesn't go all the way off because the car complains about leaving it out of park. that's where the battery disconnection is key, because it shuts up this annoying beeping. anyway i finally go down to home depot with my gf after discovering this and pick up a 10mm wrench ($7).
i get back, drop it into N, pop the hood, disconnect the battery and feel ready to go. here are the steps i followed:
1.) pull down the leather boot. give it a tug, it'll slide down
2.) identify the copper colored C clip. it won't look like a C clip at first, you'll see two legs of it pointing toward the right and left sides of the car. pull these legs APART, then push it toward the stereo. it will come off pretty easily.
3.) pull up on the shift **** now, it will come off with ease.
4.) put a butter knife under the aluminum trim, with a thin towel separating the two. this will keep you from marring the aluminum trim as others have warned about. i found a terry towel to be too thick so i had a thinner one on hand. slowly work the different edges and plan to leverage the knife upward until you hear a few clicks. don't worry, it's not any clips breaking, rather retention clips giving away. once you get enough up to pull at with your fingers, resort to that until you have the trim pulled up and away. the trim will run to the bottom above the bose unit (in other words, right above the coin/cigarette tray). there will be a wire connected to it. you don't have to disconnect it, just be careful not to strain it. i just let it sit on the edge of the passenger side.
5.) there will be two screws holding the finishers on either side of the stereo screwed in. unscrew these. now, pull on each finisher toward the closest door at first. then up, then toward you. be prepared to pull somewhat hard, these suckers are not easy to get out.
6.) remove the top lid of the clock finisher. it should just pull out with ease by pulling straight toward the back of the car. the bottom portion needs to come out and it's a bit trickier. you can try pulling it out from either the right or left end. it's not smooth and i was worried about breaking something, but it finally came out with no damage.
7.) ok now you should have 5 screws showing that hold the head unit in place. you will see more screws than this because there are 4 screws on either side of the head unit as well. don't bother with these screws on either side. the 5 screws you care about are in the following location:
a.) one under the clock. you have to stick your head under the rear view mirror and look down to see it. this screw is a SUPER B*TCH. no matter how hard i tried, i could not unscrew it by hand. i spent over 20 minutes, different screwdrivers, heads, etc. no luck. of course, i had no power tools. guess who made a return trip to home depot to pick up a $20 power screwdriver?
b.) two are in the upper right and left corners of the head unit, behind where the side finishers were that were removed in step 5. to get access to these, you also need to remove the silver trim from the dash.
c.) two more are physically BELOW the head unit. they are not in plain sight when looking from above. get your head below the head unit and you will see them.
after you have these screws out, you are ready to pull out the head unit and plug in your components. this is the point where it got too dark for me to proceed outside. i was pissed because i didn't want to leave my car sitting out in my apartment's parking lot with all these pieces hanging out, especially when i have a secure underground parking spot. so what did i do? oh yeah, i rehooked the battery terminal, turned the car on, and shifted it with out the shift ****... that was a WEIRD experience. anyway it's all parked, locked up, sitting in the underground garage with towels over the console/stereo so it's not obvious that walking off with the headunit would be a joke.b.) two are in the upper right and left corners of the head unit, behind where the side finishers were that were removed in step 5. to get access to these, you also need to remove the silver trim from the dash.
c.) two more are physically BELOW the head unit. they are not in plain sight when looking from above. get your head below the head unit and you will see them.
i'm planning to finish up the job tomorrow. i'll have some pictures from the install, final results and more notes on how to do this.
Last edited by absolutg; 02-04-2006 at 04:10 AM.
#6
#7
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#8
hey guys, sorry for the delay. i have the pics @ home on my desktop but i'm out of town. i'll be posting them this weekend. i got the pac aai-nis2 and the blitzsafe unit hooked up eventually with the aid of 16psibrick, a user on this forum who very generously helped me out. i'll have more deets in a few days when i get back
#9
These instructions can be used for the most part:
http://digitalwheelz.com/G35ScreenHo...stallGuide.pdf
Please note that installation instructions for < 2005 and >= 2005 are not equal. Those pictorial instructions above are for < 2005 models. The instructions absolutg posted is for 2005 & 2006 models.
http://digitalwheelz.com/G35ScreenHo...stallGuide.pdf
Please note that installation instructions for < 2005 and >= 2005 are not equal. Those pictorial instructions above are for < 2005 models. The instructions absolutg posted is for 2005 & 2006 models.
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