Subs firing in the trunk
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if the subs are firing into the cabin you just want to make sure the back of the enclosure is 100% sealed, that way all the soundwaves travel forward (taking path of least resistance) and you get no bass out of phase and no cancellation, this is the best set up possible!
just got to make sure you have everything sealed off really well.
just got to make sure you have everything sealed off really well.
Last edited by BigSash; Mar 3, 2006 at 01:36 AM.
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Originally Posted by saltydogg05
Is there any special reason most owners have their subs firing into the trunk? (INSTEAD OF FIRING TOWARDS THE CABIN)
Subs firing into the trunk will sound pretty good with little sealage where as subs firing into the cabin will only sound better than facing the trunk if there is 100% sealage and this can get much more expensive.
=]
It seems to be really well sealed. no trunk rattle at all, even when I lifted the trunk I thought I would get knocked down by the bass but its 95% going where it is directed to go, not hardly any coming out of or into the trunk.
I think the box was about $200, Labor was another 150 + wireing. I think it all came to about 395 for having everything installed. Thats 2 amps, a set of comps,set of 6x9" in the rear the subs and building the box for the sub. Im going to go back and dynomat the doors maybe this weekend. What in the trunk area should I dynomat?
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there is actually already a good amount of sound dampening in the trunk that come stock to quiet the cabin.
I would dynamat most of the area where there isn't already stock dampening because that won't be too much area.
But then again I dampened everything that wouldn't limit service-ability.
Smart move to buy your dampening material off the web before you have it installed and just pay for labor, or install it yourself (not that hard).
Get Cascade V-MAX you can get way more than you need to do your entire car for around $200, in my experience car audio shops make a lot of money on this stuff (in terms of retail mark up) =]
I would dynamat most of the area where there isn't already stock dampening because that won't be too much area.
But then again I dampened everything that wouldn't limit service-ability.
Smart move to buy your dampening material off the web before you have it installed and just pay for labor, or install it yourself (not that hard).
Get Cascade V-MAX you can get way more than you need to do your entire car for around $200, in my experience car audio shops make a lot of money on this stuff (in terms of retail mark up) =]
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if you do it yourself you want to make sure to leave the bolts and what not uncovered on the inside of the doors so that it can be serviced if your windows ever stop working on something like that. I will post pics of my inner-door soon.
wanalaugh74-I live in Bristol(Bristol is half on the VA side-Half on the TN side). Installation was done by Custom Enclosures in Bristol. badtziscool- I think air space is about .80 per sub.(the installer had to make the box a little bigger to meet min. air space requirements). BigSash-System sounds very good, Havn't dynamated yet...I'm leaving for Rome on Thursday and plan on doing it when I get back.
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