Tire set-up for roadcourse
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
Tire set-up for roadcourse
Assuming the same type of tire, is a staggered set-up better for the course, or a non-staggered set-up?
I'm currently on non-staggered but still have the OEM set-up which is. I'm not sure which set of tires/wheels to use at the track.
Thanks.
I'm currently on non-staggered but still have the OEM set-up which is. I'm not sure which set of tires/wheels to use at the track.
Thanks.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
Hey Matt!
The OEM is a bit worn in the back but the setup is 225/50 and 245/45, all 18's. The non-staggered set-up is 245/40/19s all around and have plenty of tread left. Both sets are summer.
The OEM is a bit worn in the back but the setup is 225/50 and 245/45, all 18's. The non-staggered set-up is 245/40/19s all around and have plenty of tread left. Both sets are summer.
^^definately better for understeer but takes you out of stock. I would only suggest going to 35/40 series tire instead of 45. (stiffer sidewall). Practice on a good summer tire for your first year then move to a R-comp race tire for better grip when you learn the limits on street tire. Get the lightest rim you can find...
I'm in the same boat as Mike. Planning on using my same OEM wheels for track duty.
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
I'm in the same boat as Mike. Planning on using my same OEM wheels for track duty.
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
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That's what I'm really worried about. If they say something about it, maybe I'll be able to beg and get away with it for this one event. If not, I'm out the cash for the event and I gotta find some used OEMs
You might as well wait until you can get tires, bald street tires will ruin your day, spinouts likely. If you plan to keep autocrossing, extra race wheels and tires will be key. If you plan just to race once in a great while, just use good street tires on your oems.
You might as well wait until you can get tires, bald street tires will ruin your day, spinouts likely. If you plan to keep autocrossing, extra race wheels and tires will be key. If you plan just to race once in a great while, just use good street tires on your oems.
If you're talking SCCA solo rules, it would only take you out of stock if the wheels were not factory size. The tire size doesn't matter if it fits on factory size wheels.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
I'm in the same boat as Mike. Planning on using my same OEM wheels for track duty.
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
My rears are also quite worn. Pretty much to the wear bars. I would assume that even though the tread is very worn they will still handle just fine on a dry track/autox course. Do tires only lose their traction in water by losing the tread? Race cars run slicks - so wouldn't worn tires be fine and actually handle better since there's more contact patch?
AutoX is a different matter though, and though i'm not an expert, you can probably get away with it for a lap or two.
Tire compound changes as you get to the bald stage; yes, you have a larger contact patch, but the compound at the base of the tire is not the sticky stuff that gives you grip. It is there as a foundation for the tread.
If you are at the wear bars, you will probably have less grip. Most tires have optimal grip at about 4/32" tread. Wear bars are at 2/32". Most street tires are between 9/32" and 11/32" brand new.
As for stagger and non-stagger, do you like the factory handling? Going non-stagger will make the front grip harder, and the rear end will break out, resulting in a car that will oversteer. Keeping the staggered setup will maintain the (relative) factory balance. The question here would be, are you running any type of coilovers, BBK, and aero? That is all a factor in tire sizing in a performance application.
If this is your first track day, then stick to the OEM setup, and determine what you like and do not like about your car's handling before making changes. I'd recommend you get a set of high performance pads if you're on a high-speed course.
Feel free to PM me or call with questions.
If you are at the wear bars, you will probably have less grip. Most tires have optimal grip at about 4/32" tread. Wear bars are at 2/32". Most street tires are between 9/32" and 11/32" brand new.
As for stagger and non-stagger, do you like the factory handling? Going non-stagger will make the front grip harder, and the rear end will break out, resulting in a car that will oversteer. Keeping the staggered setup will maintain the (relative) factory balance. The question here would be, are you running any type of coilovers, BBK, and aero? That is all a factor in tire sizing in a performance application.
If this is your first track day, then stick to the OEM setup, and determine what you like and do not like about your car's handling before making changes. I'd recommend you get a set of high performance pads if you're on a high-speed course.
Feel free to PM me or call with questions.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
Thanks, mIKE.
Everything is OEM on my car except the tires/wheels. I haven't driven on the OEM tire/wheel in a year, roughly 20k miles. I've actually got quite used to the aftermarket set-up. In any case, thanks for the good advice, if i can i'll probably take both sets with me and swap them out. Then again, i probably won't be taking those turns as fast i can, mainly because this is my first time, it's not a race, and there's still much to be learned!
Everything is OEM on my car except the tires/wheels. I haven't driven on the OEM tire/wheel in a year, roughly 20k miles. I've actually got quite used to the aftermarket set-up. In any case, thanks for the good advice, if i can i'll probably take both sets with me and swap them out. Then again, i probably won't be taking those turns as fast i can, mainly because this is my first time, it's not a race, and there's still much to be learned!


