Need a non-BBK brake upgrade
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
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From: Surf City, CA
Need a non-BBK brake upgrade
I will be driving the G is going at Willow Springs in August. I imagine that after a short while, the brakes will begin fading. I won’t have time to do wheels, big brakes and all that. Will aftermarket replacement size rotors provide any improvement in shedding heat? If so what brand(s) should I look at?
At the very least, I will get some race pads. I may also change out the brake fluid.
Thanks.
At the very least, I will get some race pads. I may also change out the brake fluid.
Thanks.
It looks like you're already going with pads and fluid, so the only thing left is changing to some SS braided lines.
Larger rotors should help to dissipate heat, but at that point you're so far along you might as well go with an aftermarket BBK.
Larger rotors should help to dissipate heat, but at that point you're so far along you might as well go with an aftermarket BBK.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Surf City, CA
Originally Posted by myG35ZX
Front 05 brakes. The 05 fronts seemed much better than my 03's.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Surf City, CA
Originally Posted by GZire
It looks like you're already going with pads and fluid, so the only thing left is changing to some SS braided lines.
Larger rotors should help to dissipate heat, but at that point you're so far along you might as well go with an aftermarket BBK.
Larger rotors should help to dissipate heat, but at that point you're so far along you might as well go with an aftermarket BBK.
If I go to a BBK, I think new wheels would be mandatory. A possible exception could be the 13" Willwood kit. Those calipers may clear the spokes on the 17" sport rims.
Originally Posted by headpaneer
Will stainless lines help with fading or just provide better pedal modulation?
If I go to a BBK, I think new wheels would be mandatory. A possible exception could be the 13" Willwood kit. Those calipers may clear the spokes on the 17" sport rims.
If I go to a BBK, I think new wheels would be mandatory. A possible exception could be the 13" Willwood kit. Those calipers may clear the spokes on the 17" sport rims.
Here's an option. Since it looks like you don't have the 19" wheels, you might want to see what another member here is willing to sell their's for. The 03/04 wheels (while not forged) were going for less than $800 for the set of 4 with tires. You could probably get a good price on the 19" wheels. From there you have the option of going up to a 14" BBK (or just larger rotors) with minimal concerns for clearance.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
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From: Surf City, CA
Well thank you both for the ideas. I’ll have to see what I can pull together in the next few weeks. I also need to get a helmet. I have a few bottles of Motul RBF600 that I was going to use for the Saleen but if it's compatible, I'll put it in the G. Umm, need racey pads, too. I wish there was a little more time.
Last edited by headpaneer; Jul 21, 2005 at 02:48 AM.
Check this out from www.racingbrake.com. I think this for both front and rear 13in rotors.
If you buy both front & rear big brake kits, we are offering a $100 discount, includes free shipping (USA Continent Only). If you own Brembo or Stoptech’s front big brake kit, we will offer a 10% refund for the purchase of the rear big brake kit*.
Purchase both front & rear big brake kits
(Price reduction reflected at time of checkout)
Choice of front rotor kit Total cost includes free shipping:
Slotted Only
$1,599.90
Drilled & Slotted $1,659.90
Open Slot $1,749.90
If you buy both front & rear big brake kits, we are offering a $100 discount, includes free shipping (USA Continent Only). If you own Brembo or Stoptech’s front big brake kit, we will offer a 10% refund for the purchase of the rear big brake kit*.
Purchase both front & rear big brake kits
(Price reduction reflected at time of checkout)
Choice of front rotor kit Total cost includes free shipping:
Slotted Only
$1,599.90
Drilled & Slotted $1,659.90
Open Slot $1,749.90
Originally Posted by GZire
Here's an option. Since it looks like you don't have the 19" wheels, you might want to see what another member here is willing to sell their's for. The 03/04 wheels (while not forged) were going for less than $800 for the set of 4 with tires. You could probably get a good price on the 19" wheels. From there you have the option of going up to a 14" BBK (or just larger rotors) with minimal concerns for clearance.
Originally Posted by Balzz
19" wheels aren't a good idea for the track however.
I'll just quote eagle1 since he already put it so well.
Also, good luck finding 19" track rubber.
The 19's should not be run on the track, the sidewalls will be too stiff and short and the unsprung weight, and its placement far out on the wheel, will be undesireable as well. Those look great on the street, but that is where they should stay.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 259
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From: Surf City, CA
Right now, the car is still running the skinny 17” sport rims. My desire is to get relatively economical, forged (not talking HREs here) 8.5 x 18s and 9.5 x 18s.
Thanks again for the input.
Thanks again for the input.
If you get forged 18's, some of them will clear a 14" BBK (such as the Nismo wheel). That gives a very powerful braking upgrade on a workable wheel size for both track and street.
If you do not have time to do the full upgrade, the best thing is to do as suggested above, and that is to go with braided stainless lines and a high quality brake fluid such as Motul 600, and then a strong pad for the fronts, like pagid orange.
Remember that tires stop cars, not brakes. Brakes stop the wheel from turning...but the grip of the tire will be what holds the road and brings the car down in speed. Locking up the wheel just causes the tire to lose grip and you slide, to the detriment of your braking distance. Thus one of the most important elements to the equation of slowing is your choice of tire.
If you are going to Big Willow in August....it is going to be HOT HOT HOT. You will want a tire that can take it. (If you drive an all season tire or plan to on that track, do everyone a favor and just leap from a tall building before going out there). You should have either a DOT-R compound, or an ultra high performance summer rated tire (formulated for air temps of 80 degrees or greater).
Also be respectful of your engine temp. Be sure you have good coolant water mix, and you might consider putting a bottle of Redline Water Wetter in there.
Have fun, drive safe.
If you do not have time to do the full upgrade, the best thing is to do as suggested above, and that is to go with braided stainless lines and a high quality brake fluid such as Motul 600, and then a strong pad for the fronts, like pagid orange.
Remember that tires stop cars, not brakes. Brakes stop the wheel from turning...but the grip of the tire will be what holds the road and brings the car down in speed. Locking up the wheel just causes the tire to lose grip and you slide, to the detriment of your braking distance. Thus one of the most important elements to the equation of slowing is your choice of tire.
If you are going to Big Willow in August....it is going to be HOT HOT HOT. You will want a tire that can take it. (If you drive an all season tire or plan to on that track, do everyone a favor and just leap from a tall building before going out there). You should have either a DOT-R compound, or an ultra high performance summer rated tire (formulated for air temps of 80 degrees or greater).
Also be respectful of your engine temp. Be sure you have good coolant water mix, and you might consider putting a bottle of Redline Water Wetter in there.
Have fun, drive safe.


