DIY: Engine Bay Dress-Up Bolt/Washer Kits, NFSP Style (don't pay a fortune for bolts)

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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #31  
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how about yellow?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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I think metalcast comes in a "gold" color, but not yellow
 
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Outstanding Ash! Thank you very much...
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 04:19 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by NFSP G35
So a while back, I wanted to start replacing the ugly OEM under hood bolts with something similar to GalleryFresh or PasswordJDM style bolts, but the price-tag on those turned me away really fast (SRSLY guys? That much, for freaking bolts?!?)

So I started doing a bunch of R&D on different bolts styles/suppliers/finishes/ways to finish the bolts/etc... and came up with something I was happy with:





After seeing them, several members approached me about making some for them, which I did:



...but I'm not really into retail (and trying to be a vendor on this site is a huge PITA) and people started hounding me about wanting bolt sets but didn't like waiting (had very limited time to do these, and conditions have to be juuuust right for the paint) so I quit doing them.

Well, recently there's been a huge resurgence in interest, so in the interest of benefiting the community, here's all the info you'll need


1st - Bolts
Most of the bolts you'll need are M6x1.0 thread. Get 25mm length for most of them, and a few 16mm (some of the bolts have to be very short)
http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=70507
For the bolts around the perimeter of the plenum, 25mm is perfect, there are either 9 or 10... I can't remember for sure. You'll also need 4x60mm and 3x40mm and 2 M6 nuts (chrome ones look nice http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=00079)
If you have a 5/16 or 3/8 spacer, add 10mm to each bolt size.
The larger ones that hold on the radiator support are M8x1.25x20mm
Also, the nuts for your strut towers are M8x1.25
Now if you really want baller status, you can get the bolts in chrome instead of stainless... and they are very shiny: http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=70665
Also, these look great for the throttle body (especially if you have a polished TB and plenum) http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=70651 get them in 60mm and add 4 M6 chrome washers to complete the look: http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=20200
Some guys use this style around the plenum, which looks good as well.

2nd - Washers
Ok, other than the flat washers (which you can find easily enough on allensfasteners) you'll also need the countersink washers.
These are the ones I got:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/51...tersunk_Washer
http://www.drillspot.com/products/51...tersunk_Washer
you'll need two sizes, because the larger ones work nice and look good down the fenders, but don't fit well in tight places like on the plenum, etc...
You can also get these at Grainger stores with the same item numbers (1NU85 and 1NU86)
If you're doing the really large ones on the radiator support, you'll want to get some 5/16th ones along with your allensfasteners order: http://www.allensfasteners.com/detai...oduct_ID=20220
For the ones under the strut tower bolts, you'll have to do some experimenting, but I believe a 5/16th washer will fit, and might look a bit better or be easier/cheaper to get.
Probably be worth it to pick up a couple different styles with your order... if people update this thread with their findings, I'll add it to this post.

3rd finishing (optional)
If you just want a straight up stainless look, you don't really have to do anything



otherwise, the best looking finish is DupliColor Metalcast. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalCast/

I've tried several paints, and this one is by far the best looking. The colors are transparent, so you don't want to use any primer, because you want to be able to see the reflective metal underneath.
Usually about 3 very light coats is perfect. The biggest trick is getting them even all the way around... I usually just do a quick pass from 3 different angles (120 degrees apart) and repeat that process for each coat.
Also, the weather has to be just right for this paint, otherwise it will turn hazy really quick, and you have to strip it all off and start over.
The only problem is, since you're not doing any priming, it can chip fairly easy, so your best bet is just to be really careful when you install them, and make several extras to replace any that get chipped over time.


All in all, your materials, paint, and shipping should all be way way WAY less that what pretty much any custom bolt kit out there will cost you, and the results are always a big hit at shows



this is awesome. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #35  
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I plan on taking a bunch to work with me and grinding the heads down to a smooth finish to remove the etched writing on the head. Will follow up with results.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #36  
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^sweet! Definitely let us know how it goes. Hopefully that stainless won't give you too much trouble. That junk is freaking hard!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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thanks for this write up
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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thanks for the info
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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Dope DIY, man.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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Great thread Ashley
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:13 PM
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great diy i am ordering mine this weekend
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 04:00 AM
  #42  
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G35844, I assume you found the answer to your question?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #43  
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Problem was that the grinder is circular, left a concave shape on the head. Gotta try something different.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NFSP G35
G35844, I assume you found the answer to your question?
I did sort of..we'll see when the order arrives

outstanding job on this thread by the way!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 03:53 PM
  #45  
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^Thanks! If not, feel free to ask.

I've been a little busy lately or I would have got back to you sooner about the bolt sizes.
 
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