DIY: Akebono BBK Installation on 03-07 G/Z - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion
Show Your Support Become A Premier Member



DIY: Akebono BBK Installation on 03-07 G/Z

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.
  #1  
Old 05-02-2009, 11:24 AM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
DIY: Akebono BBK Installation on 03-07 G/Z

This DIY will take you through the basic steps to remove the existing brake components (calipers, rotors, lines) in order to install the Akebono brake kit that is standard on the G37S and the 370Z Track model (I think it's called "Track"..can't remember).

First, I weighed the Akebono kit at work.
Adapter Brackets, front left and right: 1.8lbs
Hardware, front: 2 lbs (reuse existing rear hardware)
Front Calipers: 10 lbs each
Rear Calipers: 5 lbs each
Front Rotors (14" Stoptech Slotted): 27lbs each ()
Rear Rotors (13.8" OEM blanks, vented): 18lbs each ()

I will weigh the existing components next week and update this thread to show the delta in both unsprung and rotating mass.

Some tools needed for the install:
Floor jack and jack stands. I used stands for the front of the car and my floor jack to raise the rear via the rear differential.

Basic set of sockets, wrenches. A 7/8" socket was required to remove the bolts on the front caliper.

Tin snips, dremel, cutoff wheel or equivalent to remove/cut dust shields.

Vice grips

10mm open ended wrench (Akebono calliper bleeders)

Flathead screwdriver

Rubber mallet

Bowls and tubing to bleed brake system (I used 1/8” aquarium line)

Onto the install:
Break all lug nuts loose, raise car, remove wheels and set aside. You will have access to the existing rotor and caliper now.

Front rotor/caliper
Name:  103_1128.jpg
Views: 495
Size:  40.9 KB

Rear rotor/caliper
Name:  103_1129.jpg
Views: 479
Size:  60.3 KB

Set up some bowls/cups (whatever works for you) under each caliper and drain brake fluid. Attach the tubing to the bleeder screw and slowly open the screw.

Rear drain setup
Name:  103_1140.jpg
Views: 487
Size:  70.0 KB

Front drain setup,
Name:  103_1139.jpg
Views: 481
Size:  70.3 KB

I used the Motive 0107 bleeder to flush the brake system,
Name:  103_1137.jpg
Views: 483
Size:  71.1 KB

Be very careful with brake fluid, it is highly corrosive and will eat through your clear coat and paint in a short amount of time.

Tubing on front caliper bleeder valve,
Name:  103_1135.jpg
Views: 486
Size:  49.2 KB

Front caliper fluid drained.
Name:  103_1142.jpg
Views: 479
Size:  60.0 KB

Rear caliper tubing,
Name:  103_1134.jpg
Views: 483
Size:  67.7 KB

Rear caliper drained.
Name:  103_1141.jpg
Views: 486
Size:  78.5 KB

Do this to all four corners. I started passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, then drivers front until all the fluid was evacuated from the system.

I bought stainless steel brake line with my kit, if you are using the OEM lines then ignore the next few steps.

Break loose the two bolts attaching the caliper. I used a 7/8” socket for these. If you have never removed these then it would help to spray some PB Blaster/WD40 on them and let them sit for a while.
Name:  103_1143.jpg
Views: 480
Size:  46.9 KB

Remove the two 12mm bolts securing the OEM lines to the strut.
Name:  103_1144.jpg
Views: 479
Size:  59.4 KB

Last edited by twin001; 05-02-2009 at 11:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to twin001 For This Useful Post:
Herbbie Hablib (12-13-2011)
  #2  
Old 05-02-2009, 11:24 AM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
This is a tricky step, remove the clip that holds the OEM brake line to this bracket. There was quite a bit of dirt and debris in there, I used a small flathead and worked around the clip until it came out. I used a small pair of vice grips to loosen the nut.
Name:  103_1145.jpg
Views: 481
Size:  66.3 KB

Now that the two caliper attach bolts are broken loose and the lines are unhooked, simply slide the caliper off the rotor. You may need to rock it back and forth a few times for it to come loose. Here’s one of the front calipers off the car,
Name:  103_1146.jpg
Views: 488
Size:  75.8 KB

Now it’s time to remove the rotor. You may need to break out the rubber mallet for this one. Nothing like banging loudly on your car at midnight! Rotor removed and off the car,
Name:  103_1147.jpg
Views: 489
Size:  86.4 KB

Now we have a clear shot of the dust shield. You MUST trim or remove the shields to get the new BBK to fit. I initially wanted to remove the shields but they are sandwiched in between the spindle and the main suspension components. I was able to remove 4 of the 5 17mm (I think) bolts, the last one I could not remove. This said, it was time to start hacking as much of the dust shield off as possible! You can get by with trimming a little, but I wanted that thing gone! If dirt or debris gets into the rotor it should be able to find its way out pretty easily.


This is one of the tabs that will get in the way (lower front)
Name:  103_1153.jpg
Views: 481
Size:  42.9 KB

Closeup of dust shield on
Name:  103_1152.jpg
Views: 485
Size:  54.3 KB

Dust shield trimmed to my liking,
Name:  103_1154.jpg
Views: 512
Size:  56.8 KB


Here’s the OEM front rotor next to the Stoptech rotor.
Name:  103_1148.jpg
Views: 482
Size:  39.3 KB

Do this for both front brakes. Now it’s time to go work on the rear brakes!

Again, if you are re-using your existing lines then skip this step. Loosen the nut attaching the flexible brake line to the hard line using a flared wrench or vice grips (same as front, except there are no attachments to the strut….much easier!)

Remove two 19mm bolts attaching the rear caliper to the car. Again, if you have never removed them then let them soak in PB Blaster or WD40. (Sorry, no good pics of this.)

Here’s where you get to bang on the car VERY violently. Make sure you release the parking brake first. The rear rotors seem to get stuck harder than the front rotors. I sprayed around the 5 bolts and hub with PB Blaster and let it sit a few minutes then started hitting it with the mallet. Hit the rotor along the back side, actually the dust shield. Also hit it along the outer perimeter of the rotor. Eventually (after a good 15 minutes for me) the rotor broke loose.

With the rotor removed we can start hacking away at the rear dust shield. The rear dust shield has an out ring that must be trimmed for the new larger rotors to fit. Again, I cut as much of the shield off as I could.

Rear dust shield hacked to pieces!
Name:  103_1161.jpg
Views: 478
Size:  41.8 KB

Now it’s time to look at the front brackets to attach the Akebono calipers. Unfortunately there were no instructions on how to install these. I looked at some pics online and it helped a little. The COZ bracket kit comes with four machined parts, two large brackets and two moon shaped pieces. After trying different combo to fit here is what works:
(picture shown above also)
Name:  103_1154.jpg
Views: 512
Size:  56.8 KB

Now, the tricky part of this is to get the moon shaped piece aligned just right…there isn’t much room for error on this. If it is not aligned right then the upper caliper bolt holes will not line up. Here is what I eventually did after a few failures. With the rotor off the car, attach the large bracket as show. Then attach the moon piece, but do not tighten down. Attach the Akebono caliper to the bracket. Now, align the moon spacer so that the upper caliper bolt hole aligns with the caliper bracket and install bolt to secure calipers. Now that the caliper is secure and in place, go ahead and tighten down the moon shaped spacer. Remove the caliper and install the rotor.
Name:  103_1157.jpg
Views: 666
Size:  74.1 KB

Now that the front rotors are on it’s time to build up the calipers. The kit comes with grease, pads, shims, pins, clips, cotter pins….everything you need. I didn’t take pics of
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 103_1154.jpg (56.8 KB, 19 views)

Last edited by twin001; 05-02-2009 at 01:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-02-2009, 11:25 AM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
the build up because everyone was asleep and my hands had shim grease all over them. Hereís the front caliper on the car,
Name:  103_1168.jpg
Views: 483
Size:  69.0 KB

The front was a tight fit, hopefully it will loosen up a little after some driving. Now, install the caliper to the adapter bracket.
Name:  103_1158.jpg
Views: 691
Size:  56.5 KB

Attach the new brake lines to the caliper, 14mm bolt. No pics, but itís pretty much error free.

The rear calipers are much easier to install. Build up the brake pad/shim/clip assembly and put in the caliper. Reuse the existing 17mm bolts to attach the caliper to the car.

Caliper/rotor on car,
Name:  103_1158.jpg
Views: 691
Size:  56.5 KB

Pad build up,
Name:  103_1170.jpg
Views: 476
Size:  44.4 KB

Brake line installation,
Name:  103_1165.jpg
Views: 515
Size:  68.3 KB

Now that everything is installed itís now time to refill the system with brake fluid, reinstall the wheels, lower the car and brake in the pads. Make sure to lower the rear of the car first and put some tire chucks behind the tires before you lower the front so the car wonít roll back.


Hereís a few pics of mine installed.
Name:  103_1175.jpg
Views: 483
Size:  63.9 KB

Name:  103_1173.jpg
Views: 476
Size:  63.3 KB

Name:  103_1178.jpg
Views: 559
Size:  48.0 KB

Name:  103_1172.jpg
Views: 480
Size:  65.8 KB

Name:  103_1171.jpg
Views: 614
Size:  66.1 KB

I could have sworn I took more pics of the install, let me dig around my memory card to see if they are somewhere on there.

I havenít had a chance to drive the car yet though! Itís been raining for the past week and Iím waiting for it to dry up so I can brake in the pads.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 103_1158.jpg (56.5 KB, 14 views)
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to twin001 For This Useful Post:
GreySky (04-29-2013), JaE35 (12-08-2012), MPG35fiend (03-13-2013), Shanes_G (01-08-2013)
  #4  
Old 05-02-2009, 12:41 PM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
So I went for a quick drive around the neighborhood today. The pedal was very squishy and I had to pump the brakes to get adequate pressue to stop the car. Went home and checked all my lines, no leakes. Then I got to looking at the rear calipers. I had them installed with the bleeder screws facing down......BAD IDEA! (this is why you don't work on cars at 2:00am!). I switched the rear calipers so the bleeder screw was on top, bled the system and drove again. Wow, what a change. The pedal is much more firm than stock. I am going to bed the brakes this afternoon sometime.

If you try to bleed the brakes with the screw at the bottom you will entrap some air in the top of the caliper. Always have the screw at the top so the fluid occupies the bottom of the caliper and fills its way to the top, releasing the air out of the system.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to twin001 For This Useful Post:
JaE35 (12-08-2012)
  #5  
Old 05-02-2009, 01:28 PM
FlSHRFun's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southwest Houston
Posts: 3,434
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Impressive write-up.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-02-2009, 01:37 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 6,408
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-02-2009, 01:37 PM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
I wanted to note one more thing, you don't to completly purge your brake fluid for this installation. I needed to change mine out, it had been a year and a few track events so it was time for replacement. You can simply disconnect the lines and cap them, just make sure to bleed the system when you get everything put back together.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-02-2009, 09:02 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 3,684
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mIKE View Post
Hey Mike! This DIY brings up a memory for me......


Thanks for the DIY!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-02-2009, 09:07 PM
Invalid_User's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tampa,Florida
Posts: 9,739
Thanked 217 Times in 146 Posts
Hey Twin001 any word on what we talked about?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-02-2009, 11:37 PM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
Finished up the 3d model on Friday, but I'm going to make a change to make the install easier. I'll give everything to the shop Monday.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-03-2009, 01:54 AM
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,001
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
That's one awesome write up. Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-03-2009, 02:59 AM
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,911
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 5 Posts
Is the caliper fully bolted down in this pic?
Name:  103_1158.jpg
Views: 477
Size:  56.5 KB
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-03-2009, 10:56 AM
twin001's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,923
Thanks: 0
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Is the caliper fully bolted down in this pic?
Yes, it's fully bolted in this pic. There is a previous pic of the caliper with no rotor, but the upper caliper bolt is not in place.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-04-2009, 11:30 AM
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 246
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thanks a lot for the writeup! our OEM brakes are PUNY!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-07-2009, 05:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: LI - New York
Posts: 52
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great write UP!
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS[South]: FS: 19" Volk SF winnings, gold, w/ fresh tires, and centercaps! 911Turbo 19 Inch 10 08-24-2016 08:31 AM
FS: 2012 Pearl White 370Z Nismo *Oklahoma* w4kj4k Other Cars 1 03-06-2016 08:06 PM
FS: Akebono complete setup USAF_1013 Brakes 11 02-06-2016 05:25 PM
FS: 2008 Infiniti G35X - Mods noctilucous 2nd Gen (V36) Sedan 0 08-06-2015 08:47 PM
Decisions, decisions... mushu G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 17 07-15-2015 03:55 PM


Tags
350z, adapter, akebono, bbk, bracket, brake, caliper, calipers, front, how, install, installing, rotor, stoptech, to, writeup

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:18 AM.


Copyright ©2002 - 2017, G35DRIVER.COM All Rights Reserved.