How to install lowering springs.
Front and Rear
Air tools are a plus to have
You will need a coil/spring compressor. They are a rent-able item from your local Advanced Auto / Pep Boys.

First step is to jack up your G and place it on jack stands just off of the rear pinch welds or chassis. (doing both at the same time will save time)


This will be your view from the back side of the rotor


Next with your jack or another jack if you have a couple...elevate with just a bit of pressure the rear spring seat... just a small amount to hold it up.



Next with two(2) 17mm ratchets remove the bolt hold the spring seat arm where it is attached behind the rotor and let the jack down slowly to free the spring. (it is a pain but you have to back it out all the way with the wrench)


I used my high pressure air to clean out the seat.


choose the spring the fits you the best... H&R fit me the best.


compare to your factory springs


put pressure on the spring seat to re-install the spring. the rubber bushing has to be seated just right in its pattern.


with your jack raise the spring seat so that it is re-aligned with the slot right behind the rotor where you removed it from at tighten the bolt back at 85lbs


Mount the rim and lower off of your jack stands.



finished... now on to the front... write-up in a few days.
Thanks for looking. hope i helped you DIYers

Ok the front is a bit tricky... First measure the front end as is Factory.


Next jack up your G and place it on jack stands along the chassis


after the rim has been taken off remove the sensors from the strut. there are two locations. Let the wire hang free.


Remove the brake line bolt from the strut and allow the line to hang free.


Next remove the three strut tower bolts from inside the engine bay.


Now remove the bolt from the base of the strut that runs through the lower control arm.


Next are the two bolts for the upper a-arm. the boxed nut from inside the engine compartment will not spin so you only need the wrench for the wheel well side.


The upper a-arm will drop down.


The a-arm can be pulled outward to help remove the strut.


The strut needs to be slid forward for removal


Remove the lower end-link bolt (end-link is from the sway-bar to the control arm)


Place a few strips of painters tape over the middle of your fender to prevent scratches from the strut tower bolts when removing the strut.(you will thank me)Then pull the strut out.


Time to get out the spring compressor


Compress the spring till the pressure is off the top rubber isolator(at the strut cap)Next, A prybar can be used to help stop the plate from spinning while you losen the strut bolt and remove the plate.


A vice, or any pair of pliers can be used to hold the piston shaft as you losen the bolt because it will start to turn.


Then remove the spring from the strut.


At this time uncompress the factory spring slowly and remove the compression tool.

Remove the rubber/plastic isolator from the bottom of your factory springs and place them on your new springs to prevent steel against steel rubbing then compress the new spring.


Aline your springs to seat correctly in the strut then replace the cap and bolt back into place.


Once the spring is seated correctly and the plate is bolted back on, uncompress your new spring slowly into place.


Place your strut back into the wheel well in the manor that you removed it. The bottom of the strut can slide on the lower control arm to help get it into place.



After your get the strut into place, bolt the bottom on the get the sway ber end-link bolted back on.


Next are the two upper A-arm bolts to replace.


Then replace the three strut tower bolts from inside the engine compartment.


Replace the brake line bolt and sensors.




Replace the rim AFTER GOING BACK OVER ALL THE BOLTS TO CHECK IF THEY HAVE BEEN TIGHTENED. Lower the car off of your jack stands and are finished. Good Job.

So you go from this...

To This:>>>>




Have fun out there.

~Kevin~

 

I am going to DIY for spring too..I cannot wait to see!

 

nice simple write up

 

Impact gun require to take off the rims? Can I use the tool in the trunk? I mean under the trunk mat, there is a tools for spare tire. I do not have impact gun or impact sockets..

 

Air tools are not required... They just make some things a bit easier. Your oem tire iron will work fine.

 

i will be doing this shortly, looks easy good write up

 

Torque wrench is required?..I am afraid of putting wheels back..cuz I saw a few vids that wheels came off....Anyway, I was thinking about using OEM wrench in the trunk..do I just need to put my muscles to tight wheel bolts?
I am trying to use OEM jack also..I have 3-ton jack stand...so I hope spring installation and sway bar DIY will be easy!

 

nice write up man.

 

good write up, i just used it to install my H&Rs yesterday, its almost right on, couple of my own additions to it tho hehe

 

well i am glad that it helped a bit.

 

Very helful instructions. Thanks. I just wonder how much you paid for the sets of H&Rs. And I assume you had your G re-alignment done after installing the lowering springs, or I could be wrong. From the pictures, the drop is really low. Im worried that my front tires will rub if I go too low. I have a 19X9.5" front. Are those H&R springs factory spec of 1.5" or 2" drop? Your ride just looks really low after the installs.

 

H&Rs do set the G down pretty low. I will say they do ride very well but you have to change up the shocks/struts also to get away from the bouncing effect. after the springs settle the car is even lower and I have scrapped the front lip a few times on expansion joints for bridges and on-ramps here. (cause our roads suck here in PA) by it is not my daily driver so I am ok with it. You should be alright with the 19's but if you were thinking of going to 20s the fenders will have to be rolled. they are spec 1.5 from H&R.

 

Nice write up. I'm doing this in about a month or so. Thanks!

Yes, you need a torque wrench. Any time you're dealing with suspension components, it's essential they be torqued correctly. It should also be used every time you put a wheel back on. It's a small investment that you'll have for many years. The OEM jack should only be used for emergencies, not DIY repairs. Buy a 3-ton jack to go along with your jack stands.

 

Thanks for the instructions again. It really help me out to install my Tein H-Tech springs last weekend. By going for this type of installs, it lowered my ride just a little bit. Front .60 in. and Rear .30 in. It's hardly noticeable, but it help to close in the gap between the fender and the tire for looks. The ride is little different. I noticed that it minimized the brake dives and little stable during hard accelaration. It also enhanced the cornering a little bit. I was going to go with the same setup as yours but I just dont have the $ to buy the Adjustable Camber Kits and End Links. I read and heard from a lot of people that they eventually endup adding those kits, because the lowered height caused alot problem with their suspension system. I guess modifying the ride height of the G could cause alot of stress on the End Links and lower front sway bar, because OEM is only met for factory specs. By going with H-Tech it only mildly effect the suspension system so it's not really a big deal. Anyways, I'll probably will eventually go for 1.5 in drop or more and get the rest of kits that I need to properly balanced the suspension system. Maybe next year when I get more cash to blow. I already spend alot of $ for my rims. I will probably go all out and definitely go for Coilovers that my G can drive almost like a Ferrari

 

Excellent write up. Thanks!