The consensus here is that it's probably closer to 1", not 1.5". If you're doing a 1" drop, wait until you completely settle (a few weeks), and then see if you need a kit. If you're doing more than 1", then you might as well just get the kit because you're going to need it.

 

im replaced the front springs with tien ones.
i wanted to do the back ones but i do not know how to get to them
help please!


Never mind!

 

thank, i cant wait to try it out.

 

wont this mess up your shocks ??where do u purchase matching shocks and springs??

 

I don't believe so if you are only lowering the car by 1" to and 1"1/2. If you go in the marketplace section of this website you will find everything you need as far as a spring/strut or shock combo. All of the vendors have their own websites also.

 

For the front shocks, I tried to first remove the bolt at the bottom to the lower control arm, and I just can't get the bolt to move at all. Is it just the bolt locked in, or do I have to remove the three strut tower bolts first to make removing the bolt at lower control arm easier?

BTW very good write up!

 

Are you unable to get the nut off the lower bolt? Or are you unable to remove the bolt from the lower part of the shock/strut? Either way, I wouldn't take off the upper bolts until you've got the lower out. It's just going to make the shock/strut flop around. I would, however, lift the suspension a little bit so it's not fully extended. You can use a jack or even a piece of 4x4.

You're probably going to need a breaker bar of some sort for the nut, and possibly an extension on that. A regular socket wrench won't cut it. I'd spray it first with lock-eaze or WD-40 and let it soak for a bit. Suspension parts are torqued pretty high. If you got the nut off, but can't get the bolt out, you can put 2 nuts on the end of the bolt, with one of them not all the way on, and hit that (gently) with a hammer until it starts to back out. Then take the nuts off and remove the bolt. Or get a thick punch and use that on the end of the bolt. Just don't go crazy with the hammering so you don't damage the bolt or the strut.

 

^ yes it was the nut I couldn't get it off. I was going the same route as you suggested, and I figured that nut and bolt would be the hardest part, so I started there then I got stuck. I know that nut would be hard to break loose, just didn't expect to be that hard. In the service manual the nut should be torqued 79 ft-lb. I'll try lock-ease and a breaker bar. I think I'll get the new nuts too.

 

The service manual shows that the nut the holds on the strut cap is not reusable. Do most people reuse them anyway?

In another section of this forum, the answer was "yes".

 

The 2006 Sedan Service Manual lists 48-59 ft-lbs for the spring seat bolt. I found that a rubber mallet helped to align the spring seat. If also changing the shock, I recommend NOT unbolting both the bottom strut bolt and the spring seat at the same time; things stay aligned better that way. The shock can easily be compressed by hand to remove.

 

Just finished up installing Tein Stechs on my coupe, and couldn't of done it without this DIY. Thanks!

 

how is the camber , did u buy any adj control arms

 

does anyone know if this can be applied to a 350z, i know its almost the samething but dont know if its exactly the samething

 

I would think it is pretty close to being the same install.

 

350z install would be the same. The only difference is the 350z is about half an inch lower than the G35 coupe.