nice job drew!

 

thanks for reposting the pics

 

nice pics. very useful

 

great writeup and illustrations!

sticky!!!!!

 

Is the rotors the same as for the Brembos?

 

I just finished editing my first draft of

DIY Video: rear brake job G35

stay tuned

 

This is a great DIY thread however I don't recommend taking out the rotors on your own (mainly because of the bolts that require excessive torque). Unless you have all the advanced power tools that most mechanic shops own (e.g. impact wrench) chances are you'll either force your G to fall off the jack or you will not be able to tighten the bolts enough (presuming you did manage to unscrew them) hence exposing yourself and your car to all sorts of injuries or accidents.

If brakes fail you are done man, especially on a car with 280+ hp... But good luck anyways

 

Haha! Are you for real? I'm sure many people have done the procedure and haven't killed themselves. People pull their engines in their garages. . .
In any DIY, safety is the responsibility of the "doer."

I didn't need an impact wrench, but I guess I'm just strong. The last time I replace my hub carriers, I used a n18" long 1/2" drive torque wrench and didn't have any issues loosening or tightening the bolts. I didn't even need a mallet. I did put the car up evenly on 4 jack stands, on a nice level surface. Think about it. If the bolt is torqued to 120ft-lbs, and you use an 18 inch lever arm, all you need to do is impose a force of 80 pounds at the end of the arm to twist the bolt. I don't even think an even application of 80 pounds of lateral force will pull your 3500 pound car onto your lap. . .but I guess stranger things have happened. Here's a nice common sense tip to remember: If able, pull the torque wrench handle in the up or down direction, not parallel to the ground. This will work against any potential rocking of the car on the stands.

What does HP have to do with brakes failing? If your brakes fail in a civic going 100 on the highway, you might have just as much a problem as you would in a 1000HP supra rolling out at the end of a drag. . .

 

great write up...defiantely pics are worth a thousand words

 

Hey Drewer, thanks for the great diy article. With regard to the torque member bolts I assume "lefty loosey, righty tighty" still holds true. Except that the bolt is facing away from you.

That right?

 

yes it is. :-) No reverse threading here.

 

how about multi-threading? Like screwing in two torque member bolts at the same time?

 

I just attempted, for the LHS rear caliper, removing the top caliper bolt. I FAIL. The bolt is a 12mm and had some rust around it. I cleaned it up with a steel brush and sprayed WD40 on it. Put on my 1/2" drive ratchet and couldn't undo the bolt. I hammered it a bit but didn't want to apply excessive force for fear of rounding off the bolt. It's stuck pretty good, I don't know how strong you are but there's not a lot of room in there.

Any suggestions?

 

Try using a breaker bar? I just replaced my front rotors this past weekend. (Thanks Drewer for the great write up!) Granted you can turn the wheel hub to give a little more space the head of the bar will flex so you can use it from a different angle. Not to mention you'll have more leverage to pull that bolt off.

 

Drewer, thanks a lot for this thread ... I know it's not rocket surgery but it helped to get things clear in my mind. Torque specs were MONEY.

To clarify, the sliding bolts are 14mm and the caliper torque member bolts are 23mm. And ya, you MUST have a breaker bar (24").

I had one of the rear caliper slide bolts on rusted really bad on there and I had to put a ratchet on and bang on it with a hammer. I hate done that for fear of breaking the socket or ratchet but I had no other choice. The impact gun and breaker bar had no room to get in there.

I rated this thread 5*s