hey guys, sorry for the influx of camber questions...

are there any lowering springs (at least .75'' drop) out there where i wont really need a camber kit? i ask because i have a eibach pro kit in my possession...but from what i found i'll need to do a camber adj. which is more money than i want to spend on lowering.
i have fairly new dunlop direzzas that i dont want to wear prematurely because of not doing a camber adj.
thanks in advance.
PS: if so my Eibach Pro kit is for sale or trade

 

you can get 350z h techs
they will do about 3/4 of an inch and you can get the car back into spec with an alignment

 

+1

I have espelir gt springs and its about the same drop as the 350z htechs. Its been about 5 months since the drop and the ride is pretty close to stock. I was able to have my car back to oem specs. Good luck.

 

^^^sweet thanks guys....anyone else know any others that will work this way?

 

I'm a little curious about how an alignment could get his car back into spec when the camber is not adjustable???? The dealer told me that up to an inch drop would be OK. After I did the drop and brought it in for the alignment, he said "we did the alignment, but as you know, we couldn't get the camber back to spec..." So, I'm saying any drop that will be noticeable should be followed by a camber kit.

 

NEGATIVE Camber increases BECAUSE the body is dropped lower than the design point.

It varies some but each 1" of drop usually increases camber by ~ 0.8 degrees.

Regardless of how you lower body [springs or fat people and full trunk] the results are the same..........built in design function.

 

^^thanks for the info...but damn

 

The out of spec in spec line for the coupe is .8". And even then at that drop amount some owner's (350Z Tein H-tech install's are a perfect example) were not able to align to spec and bought front and rear parts to fix things. I'm ok with negitive camber that is beyond oem specs, but I totally understand that many aren't ok with it.

 

Beyond the extraordinarily wide oem spec to avoid warranty expense vs setting the alignment PERFECTLY at the absolute midpoint of the range to optimize tire performance [braking & acceleration] and wear.

 

thanks for everyones input.
i mean it doesnt have to be perfect, if its a little off then it sounds like wear will just be a little quicker. but as long as its not that bad i guess i'd be ok with 350z h-techs?

 

if the drop is about 1" or under, you shouldn't have camber issues.

My Tanabe GF210 is like 1.7"+ drop in the rear, and I was only off by 0.8 degrees from spec after an alignment.