Aftermarket Rotors
#16
There are dozens of grades of Gray Cast Iron.
Whether you replace rotors or just buy another car to get different rotors, you will get new rotors every 3-4-5 years that's 15-20 sets over 60 years.
Even reading 1000 pages might be a small price to pay.
Don't confuse Marketing companies or Retailers or wholesalers with the manufacturer of the actual blank rotors.
On equal diameter and thickness [in one piece] rotors always select the heaviest even if it is only 3 ounces.............since freight is by the fraction of a pound and bean counters strip every fraction away that is not related to diameter and overall thickness....................pay attention to the ratio of metal to air space to metal.
But without xray or cutting them open hard to learn by looking
Whether you replace rotors or just buy another car to get different rotors, you will get new rotors every 3-4-5 years that's 15-20 sets over 60 years.
Even reading 1000 pages might be a small price to pay.
Don't confuse Marketing companies or Retailers or wholesalers with the manufacturer of the actual blank rotors.
On equal diameter and thickness [in one piece] rotors always select the heaviest even if it is only 3 ounces.............since freight is by the fraction of a pound and bean counters strip every fraction away that is not related to diameter and overall thickness....................pay attention to the ratio of metal to air space to metal.
But without xray or cutting them open hard to learn by looking
#17
Originally Posted by Q45tech
There are dozens of grades of Gray Cast Iron.
Whether you replace rotors or just buy another car to get different rotors, you will get new rotors every 3-4-5 years that's 15-20 sets over 60 years.
Even reading 1000 pages might be a small price to pay.
Don't confuse Marketing companies or Retailers or wholesalers with the manufacturer of the actual blank rotors.
On equal diameter and thickness [in one piece] rotors always select the heaviest even if it is only 3 ounces.............since freight is by the fraction of a pound and bean counters strip every fraction away that is not related to diameter and overall thickness....................pay attention to the ratio of metal to air space to metal.
But without xray or cutting them open hard to learn by looking
Whether you replace rotors or just buy another car to get different rotors, you will get new rotors every 3-4-5 years that's 15-20 sets over 60 years.
Even reading 1000 pages might be a small price to pay.
Don't confuse Marketing companies or Retailers or wholesalers with the manufacturer of the actual blank rotors.
On equal diameter and thickness [in one piece] rotors always select the heaviest even if it is only 3 ounces.............since freight is by the fraction of a pound and bean counters strip every fraction away that is not related to diameter and overall thickness....................pay attention to the ratio of metal to air space to metal.
But without xray or cutting them open hard to learn by looking
I understand you can not base quality on hype and just looking, but based on the criteria you use, are there brands you have found more reliable than others? And what about cryogenics for rotors?
Last edited by fortified; 10-03-2006 at 04:27 PM.
#18
#19
One of the least expensive places to buy genuine Brembo rotors is Import Replacement Parts. I have ordered parts from them and they are a good dealer. A buddy got the brembo slotted rotors from them and was also pleased wit their price and service.
Brembo drilled
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...5&cat=0&page=1
Brembo slotted
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...7&cat=0&page=1
You might want to pick up some new pads and brake fluid too.
You can also PM SFLG35 and see what he can get for you. I've gotten good deals from him too.
Brembo drilled
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...5&cat=0&page=1
Brembo slotted
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...7&cat=0&page=1
You might want to pick up some new pads and brake fluid too.
You can also PM SFLG35 and see what he can get for you. I've gotten good deals from him too.
#20
A G35 is a high performance car based on it's stopping distances vs as tested weight.
Rotor prices [oem dealer or aftermarket same size] should not enter the equation. After all saving $400 every 3-4 years is infintesimal compared to the other costs associated with driving 3-4 years [you'll spent $4000+ in insurance and $8000-$10,000 in gasoline and lose half the value of the vehicle in depreciation and inflation. not to mention interest and other maintenances [tires, fluids].
Rotor prices [oem dealer or aftermarket same size] should not enter the equation. After all saving $400 every 3-4 years is infintesimal compared to the other costs associated with driving 3-4 years [you'll spent $4000+ in insurance and $8000-$10,000 in gasoline and lose half the value of the vehicle in depreciation and inflation. not to mention interest and other maintenances [tires, fluids].
#23
#24
I use the one piece slotted Stoptechs.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4900
They seem to work fine. I've tracked them with race pads and haven't had a problem. The 2 piece rotors are nice but unreasonably expensive.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4900
They seem to work fine. I've tracked them with race pads and haven't had a problem. The 2 piece rotors are nice but unreasonably expensive.
#26
I recently changed my stock rotors, pads, fluid, and lines (hoses). I have a 2004 6mt coupe with OEM Brembo brakes.
I went with the StopTech 2-piece slotted (not drilled) aerorotors. The 2-piece rotors have an aluminum hat, which makes the rotors "quite a bit" lighter. By "quite a bit" I mean holding the OEM rotor in one hand, and the StopTech rotor in the other hand (and then switching hands ), the difference was noticible - I'm guessing 3-4 pounds lighter each. Don't underestimate the weight savings for acceleration gains. Rotational & unsprung weight savings.
I went with the slotted, and not drilled, because I do track my car, and I also read about the possible cracking with drilled rotors in racing and/or hard, repeated braking applications.
I went with the Project-MU HP TITAN KAI brake pads, which are a compromise between a pure stock vs. pure racing pad. I did ALOT of research before I decided on these pads, but that was 12 months ago.
The stopping power/distance is incredible. The Stock brembo system was great, but (hard to believe) this is better. These brakes really haul down the car quickly. The difference is definately noticible! On a recent trackday, I had NO brake-fade at all. The Corvettes, Vipers, and others on the track complained HARD about brake fade, whereas my brakes just seemed to get better and better.
Other notes: I thought the brake squeeling was bad before I changed the pads/rotors, let me tell you, its much worse now. The squeel is different - instead of just squeeling as I cruise along slowly, the new setup squeels like a stuck pig only when you apply the brakes. If you apply the brakes hard, tho, it doesn't squeel at all, just if you lightly hold the brakes and slowly want to come to a stop (at a traffic light, for instance - kinda embarassing, but WTF, who cares, they work great.)
The Stainless Steel lines are also from StopTech, and the Fluid is MOTUL Dot 4 fluid.
I'm very happy.
I went with the StopTech 2-piece slotted (not drilled) aerorotors. The 2-piece rotors have an aluminum hat, which makes the rotors "quite a bit" lighter. By "quite a bit" I mean holding the OEM rotor in one hand, and the StopTech rotor in the other hand (and then switching hands ), the difference was noticible - I'm guessing 3-4 pounds lighter each. Don't underestimate the weight savings for acceleration gains. Rotational & unsprung weight savings.
I went with the slotted, and not drilled, because I do track my car, and I also read about the possible cracking with drilled rotors in racing and/or hard, repeated braking applications.
I went with the Project-MU HP TITAN KAI brake pads, which are a compromise between a pure stock vs. pure racing pad. I did ALOT of research before I decided on these pads, but that was 12 months ago.
The stopping power/distance is incredible. The Stock brembo system was great, but (hard to believe) this is better. These brakes really haul down the car quickly. The difference is definately noticible! On a recent trackday, I had NO brake-fade at all. The Corvettes, Vipers, and others on the track complained HARD about brake fade, whereas my brakes just seemed to get better and better.
Other notes: I thought the brake squeeling was bad before I changed the pads/rotors, let me tell you, its much worse now. The squeel is different - instead of just squeeling as I cruise along slowly, the new setup squeels like a stuck pig only when you apply the brakes. If you apply the brakes hard, tho, it doesn't squeel at all, just if you lightly hold the brakes and slowly want to come to a stop (at a traffic light, for instance - kinda embarassing, but WTF, who cares, they work great.)
The Stainless Steel lines are also from StopTech, and the Fluid is MOTUL Dot 4 fluid.
I'm very happy.
#29
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Napoleon, how much did the whole set-up cost you (price breakout would be awesome if you have it at hand)? And what part do you think is causing the squealing? Gas escaping through the slots, inherent problem with the pads, both, neither?
I believe the front 2-piece slotted aerorotors where about $580,
The rear rotors were about $730 (or do I have that backwards?)
The SS lines where like $90 and $80 for front/rear.
I can't remember what I paid for the pads.
Figure about $600+$700(rotors) +$180 (lines) +$160 (pads?) +fluid? + shipping?
I ordered most of it directly through stoptech.com (rotors, lines, fluid).
The Project-Mu pads I got from somewhere else (some .com somewhere, sorry)
As far as the squeeling, well, I can't say. When I put the pads in, I did smear the anti-squeal compound on the back. But after the first trackday, (I try to bleed the brakes before and after trackdays) I checked the pads, and it looked like the anti-squeal compound was burned?? (I guess it couldn't handle the HEAT of race braking - ).
I put some fresh anti-squeal compound on, (a generous amount), but it didn't help.
I don't know if the squealing is because of the brakepad compound (its almost a race-pad, race-compound?), or if its because of the slotted rotors alone? or because of my combination of pads and rotors? Cleaning the wheels/calipers/etc while washing the car seems to help for about the first 30 minutes of city driving, but it comes back very quickly.
Oh, and I did follow proper bed-in procedure after the install!
Regardless, they were certainly properly bedded-in after the first few laps.
Last edited by Napoleon; 10-04-2006 at 05:17 PM.
#30
It looks like the racing brake rotors are about the same price as the brembo rotors from importrp.com:
http://www.racingbrake.com/INFINITI_G35_s/211.htm
http://www.racingbrake.com/INFINITI_G35_s/211.htm